'04 SRT-4 engine in an '88 Caravan build

[A.J.]

The one to the right of the Image icon. 2nd from the right. looks like a little film strip. Just click that and post the shared URL in it.

The later turbo one. Supposedly it's smoother inside and doesn't suffer from the heat soak the aluminum one does. Ever think of running a 2.4 n/a van intake? Or a modded one with a big plenum?

I can't find the icon you're referring to.

I don't like the look of the 2.4 N/A van intake. Besides the thermostat housing is built into the #1 intake runner so #1 would be heat soaked from coolant. I've grown to like the PT GT aluminum intake. With all the work all ready done, I don't want to redo anything. If anything I'd ceramic coat the aluminum intake I have.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

When you hit replay with quote, look right above where your writing, there are options, right at the end is the quote, then working left is the film strip, click on that or type this with the brackets like quotes and the backslash.

{video}{/video}

[A.J.]

When you hit replay with quote, look right above where your writing, there are options, right at the end is the quote, then working left is the film strip, click on that or type this with the brackets like quotes and the backslash.

{video}{/video}

OH! I thought it was an icon on the You Tube side not the Turbo-Mopar side. No wonder I couldn't find it. Next time I post a video I'll do it right.

I got my airbox plumbed today. 2 3/4" elbow off the box into a 2 1/2" exhaust pipe (expanded on the 2 3/4" side), down to a 2 1/2" elbow for the turbo.









So it's together and running. Two years and nine months since I first got the engine and 5 weeks to the day I pulled the engine out I can drive it. Now I just have to tune it and figure out a torque converter. I drove it around today while Harry (tryingbe) was tuning with my wideband, Snap-on Solus Pro, Ostrich, and MacBook Pro hooked up. 10 lbs of boost and it's a dog. I'm going to start a tuning thread as oppose to discussing it here.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

Sorry, was the TC new? an N/A converter makes a great turbo converter as you don't have any slip, works great to flash the turbo when driving BUT that can be a bad thing, as if you brake torque the engine and you can't build boost, the stall is too low. Ask me how I know,

[A.J.]

Sorry, was the TC new? an N/A converter makes a great turbo converter as you don't have any slip, works great to flash the turbo when driving BUT that can be a bad thing, as if you brake torque the engine and you can't build boost, the stall is too low. Ask me how I know,

Yes, I bought the converter new. It was $75. Didn't you just buy a new converter? What stall did you get?

A.J.

[RoadWarrior222]

You know that ad in the back of comic books, that sold handshake buzzers and exploding cigars? I think that's where Simon has been getting his....

[turbovanman²]

Yes, I bought the converter new. It was $75. Didn't you just buy a new converter? What stall did you get?

A.J.

My last 3 were a combo of Neon and turbo converters from a well know Ebayer and 2 TCS converters, then I bought a custom converter from Hugh's and I've killed that one, its going back for warranty in the spring.

The Neon ones were all 2500 stall and with my setup, could only get 3000 and barely could build boost brake torquing it, but around town and daily driving, simply magic, The turbo from TCS was 4K stall.

The Hugh's was a 3K stall, they said that's what I needed and it worked awesome for 2 drag weekends then stopped stalling and my LU stopped working.

Unless your stator is seized, its not the reason for your lack of power.

[A.J.]

I'm getting more engine rocking than I thought I'd get from filling the front lower mount. Has anybody mounted a bobble strut to an automatic transmission? I think Simon has. I can get the K frame bracket and bobble strut from Johnny at Polybushings but what about the mount to the transmission? Will one from a manual work?

I built an upper timing belt cover today. I'm using an SRT-4 rear timing belt cover and a Stratus engine mount. So I can't use the SRT-4 upper cover because there was a gaping hole and I couldn't use a Stratus upper cover because it wouldn't line up with the rear SRT-4 cover. So I cut the bottom of off the Stratus cover and riveted it to the SRT-4 cover.











A.J.

[turbovanman²]

Yep, I modified an L body dog bone setup off a 525 trans.

[GLHNSLHT2]

is that what cracked the case???

[turbovanman²]

is that what cracked the case???

No, that's the only pic I have of that angle. Don't really know what caused it, either case fatigue or the pinion teeth came off and jammed levering the case, and the result was splitting it in two,

[A.J.]

I decided to install a bobble strut. I realized I'm going to have to drill out the rear cover bolt holes larger to make it work. I don't want to do that. The 31TH transmission has a rear transmission mount. Since I have the 31TH rear tranny mount, a bobble strut bracket from a 555 transmission, and a MIG welder, I'm gonna make something work.

'88 555 bobble strut on the left, '98 Caravan transmission mount on the right.





A.J.

[turbovanman²]

Why not what I did or similar? It was cake to do with the welding of the bracket onto the K-frame the hardest part. I feel its way better than a BS as it doesn't move at all where a BS still moves due to the shock action.

[A.J.]

Why not what I did or similar? It was cake to do with the welding of the bracket onto the K-frame the hardest part. I feel its way better than a BS as it doesn't move at all where a BS still moves due to the shock action.

The 555 bracket only has two mounting holes which only being 8mm will eventually get ripped out. I don't want to pull the rear cover to drill and tap the holes bigger. I'll use the boss on the transmission for what it was built for.

A.J.

[GLHNSLHT2]

You can always do something like this. http://www.neonsquirt.com/omni-glh-s...---custom.html

[Vigo]

Yeah, i would rather use the existing holes on top of the diff and fab a bracket than try to put something on the diff cover.

[A.J.]

You can always do something like this. http://www.neonsquirt.com/omni-glh-s...---custom.html

That's not a bad idea but I like the 1/8" thick steel of the '98 31TH trans mount and the 1/8" thick steel bobble strut bracket over the 1/16" ACE angle iron.

A.J.

[Vigo]

IMO you'd have to tie into a whole bunch of the diff cover bolts to avoid eventually wallowing them out or at least upsetting the diff cover gasket as you already mentioned. The mount boss/holes on top is already there and designed to be extremely strong. To me, that mount is actually stronger than the front mount in the vehicles it actually came in..

[turbovanman²]

The 555 bracket only has two mounting holes which only being 8mm will eventually get ripped out. I don't want to pull the rear cover to drill and tap the holes bigger. I'll use the boss on the transmission for what it was built for.

A.J.

Why would I pull the diff cover and drill and tap the holes bigger?

Unless you install a solid BS which vibrates, the stock BS still moves a fair amount,

[A.J.]

Why would I pull the diff cover and drill and tap the holes bigger?

Unless you install a solid BS which vibrates, the stock BS still moves a fair amount,

Johnny's bobble strut is semi-solid http://www.polybushings.com/pages/moparbobble.html. I don't feel 8mm bolts threaded into aluminum are strong enough. Hell, look at how often trans pan bolts strip out. I have an idea for a kick --- strong rear trans mount that's going to be bolted to the trans with 12mm bolts. It's not going to take that much to build this mount.

A.J.