'04 SRT-4 engine in an '88 Caravan build

[A.J.]

AJ, i like your 3rd row buckets (i must have missed that one..) but the thread doesnt mention how you had to modify the seats or anchors?

I didn't write it as a walk through. If you look at the pictures, you can can see how I had to cut and weld the anchoring bar to a new location to be able to fit the seats between the wheel wells.



The channel is where the anchoring bar is located on factory seats.








A.J.

[RoadWarrior222]

Ah, 1st to run TDH/UTF in a mini ... and first to break a motor mount in an auto mini .... (Okay I'm done, this is spamming up the thread. kudos to all innovators and sharers.)

[turbovanman²]

Says history. To keep things equal and fair, I listed mini-van only innovations.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...all&highlight=

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...van&highlight=

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...nstall-in-Mini

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...inside-my-mini

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ion&highlight=

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...van&highlight=

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...hing-87-90-van

And the coup de grâce

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ar+disc+brakes

I can understand your doubts. Half of my threads weren't listed in my thread history.

A.J.

Could your head get any bigger? We have all played a part in making minivans better, I've done stuff, you and lots of others, and if you must thump your chest, you better not forget Dempsey and Gus who started it.

If you want to get snooty, I DID the 1 1/4" sway bar first and made it fit a 2nd gen van crossmember-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...light=sway+bar

Also the first to put a 2nd gen rear sway bar on the back, also the first to lower it properly, first one to use car Koni's in the front, first one to use coil overs, first one to use adjustable rear shocks, first one to add a BS to an auto trans, blah blah blah.

Who was the first to drive a mini van? I test drove one in early 85...and test drove a turbo GLHS. I told the sales guy I'd buy the mini van IF I could order it with the turbo as in the GLH and want it red. He said no that will never happen. I told him no sale then.

I drove them from day one as I worked in a car rental place and they let me drive them in the parking lot then when I got my license in 86, I could legally drive them on the road,

[moparman76_69]

Could your head get any bigger? We have all played a part in making minivans better, I've done stuff, you and lots of others, and if you must thump your chest, you better not forget Dempsey and Gus who started it.

If you want to get snooty, I DID the 1 1/4" sway bar first and made it fit a 2nd gen van crossmember-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...light=sway+bar

Also the first to put a 2nd gen rear sway bar on the back, also the first to lower it properly, first one to use car Koni's in the front, first one to use coil overs, first one to use adjustable rear shocks, first one to add a BS to an auto trans, blah blah blah.

[A.J.]

Could your head get any bigger?

Yes, because I can still walk through doors. I'm working on it though.

A.J.

[RoadWarrior222]

LOL me too, I carry a block of lard for when they start to get tight

[A.J.]

I'd rather have a proper hose fitting than sliding rubber hose over a flare, especially the pressure and volume you see. Yeah, the flare works but to each their own. For a return line, it would be ok.

I had to build a sending unit for a customers car (Walbro 255 in a '88 Daytona T-II SCCA racecar) that has a fuel cell in it. I couldn't get the length I needed of submersible fuel hose so I had to make a section out of brake line. The fuel cell is 24" deep. I flared out both ends of the steel brake line. I didn't complete the double flare since I was only sliding a hose over it. Anyways, I took pictures of what I did because I don't see a way of the hose sliding off even under pressure. I'm not trying to argue or change the way you do your fuel lines, everyone has their own style and methods. I'm just wondering if you've had a problem in the past and that's why you use all the fittings you do or if you're just trying to be overly careful. I would choose safety over cost savings but if there is no added safety I'll choose cost savings.



It's like a snake swallowing a mouse.


I can't imagine the hose sliding off of this.


A.J.

[Vigo]

I think that flare and that clamp make that a pretty bulletproof connection for your basic flare + single clamp kind of thing. Personally id trust that up to like 100psi.

[black86glhs]

I have been doing line flares like that for over 10 years and never had one come apart. As long as there isn't a sharp point or crease to cut into the rubber line, it will be fine.

[turbovanman²]

Yes, because I can still walk through doors. I'm working on it though.

A.J.

LOL.

I had to build a sending unit for a customers car (Walbro 255 in a '88 Daytona T-II SCCA racecar) that has a fuel cell in it. I couldn't get the length I needed of submersible fuel hose so I had to make a section out of brake line. The fuel cell is 24" deep. I flared out both ends of the steel brake line. I didn't complete the double flare since I was only sliding a hose over it. Anyways, I took pictures of what I did because I don't see a way of the hose sliding off even under pressure. I'm not trying to argue or change the way you do your fuel lines, everyone has their own style and methods. I'm just wondering if you've had a problem in the past and that's why you use all the fittings you do or if you're just trying to be overly careful. I would choose safety over cost savings but if there is no added safety I'll choose cost savings.



It's like a snake swallowing a mouse.


I can't imagine the hose sliding off of this.


A.J.

I guess over the years, its easier for me to simply use fittings, just like some like to go apeshitt on AN stuff, I just like using proper fittings. I've seen some other shops or backyarders using flares etc and its not pretty, so maybe that's why.

[RoadWarrior222]

Though I might say, "Why give it 4 places to leak instead of one!"

[turboshelbys]

I use JB WELD and Duck tape on all my hoses

[A.J.]

I use JB WELD and Duck tape on all my hoses

And that's why they send the rescue vehicle out after you make a run because of your Spy Hunter smoke screen.

A.J.

[turboshelbys]

And that's why they send the rescue vehicle out after you make a run because of your Spy Hunter smoke screen.

A.J.

It worked didnt it?

[GLHNSLHT2]

AN fittings wherever possible. Never leak, easy to get apart.

I will NEVER use those FI clamps again. Used FI clamps and FI rated hose on my daytona, Hose was maybe 2 months old. Drove from Spokane Wa to SoCal straight through, no stopping. South of Sacremento 130am and I'm tired. See blue'ish lights coming up behind me. I'm doing 75. Finally up beside me pulls a nice Datsun 510. I romp it a bit. They drop 2 gears and hammer it. I roll on it in 5th, a/f goes full rich, hit boost and it goes stoich. I'm out in front so I lift off and then hit it again. Same thing. Ok ok don't need any boost to get over the grapevine so just take it easy and cruise at 75mph till I hit the bottom of the grapevine where everyone immediately is doing 85. Get to my destanation and my dad wants to see the car. So I pop the hood with it idling and he looks at the fuel line and asks "Is this supposed to be dripping?"

The feed line was leaking at the rail connection! Could of burnt the whole car to the ground at anytime. I could just imagine it spraying fuel all over a hot exhaust manifold while playing with the 510.

And now the clamps are even worse. Notice how thick the nut is on a new clamp vs a stock factory one? Cheap chinese crap.

[turbovanman²]

Gotta agree, the new generation of proper FI clamps are really thin. If I can reuse an OE one I will but otherwise I use AN or hose clamps, never had an issue yet, lol.

[RoadWarrior222]

There's certainly some nasty ones around, like the one I smushed apart last year using 3 fingers on a spinner wrench (i.e. I could probably exert a max torque of about 6 inlb with it) but if you pay $$$ you can find good ones... However, I prefer "brand name" stainless steel hose clamps from the plumbing section at about 50c a piece.... you can probably tighten those to about 20ftlb and they'll stay together.

[Vigo]

Personally, my main reason for not reusing the factory FI clamps (even if they're in good condition) is that they dont spread when you loosen them. That's just so asinine it makes me not use them much. Some of them where the nut is encapsulated on the backside DO loosen, and i like those pretty well.

[turboshelbys]

There's certainly some nasty ones around, like the one I smushed apart last year using 3 fingers on a spinner wrench (i.e. I could probably exert a max torque of about 6 inlb with it) but if you pay $$$ you can find good ones... However, I prefer "brand name" stainless steel hose clamps from the plumbing section at about 50c a piece.... you can probably tighten those to about 20ftlb and they'll stay together.

True that, I get mine at ACE Hardware and they are very strong, much better than the originals.

[shackwrrr]

I grab Subaru FI clamps at the JY. stainless steel, phillips head screw, and they are nice and thick. Just cost me the $1 entry.