What did you replace the PM pins with?
What did you replace the PM pins with?
So I have a 1991 Lebaron V6 wire harness laying around at my work. It was used, but in good shape. Multiple of the interior connectors had terminals that worked for the PM connector. I had to bend the tabs at the bottom so they would fit.
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Also, the black/grey connectors I am holding fit the 10 pin power module perfectly if you ground the plastic tabs off the side.
It takes these same pins and they are spaced out perfect. The pins on this are also serviceable.
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Now, this is a very interesting revelation. I was just looking at the larger terminal bock in your photo on Sunday. That's for the front window switches on my lancer. I will be on the lookout for these. Thanks!
So.... Monday evening I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to my car. It was fluctuating between 30-40 psi at idle. Snapping the throttle caused the pressure to drop. I left the gauge hooked up and let the car idle while I made dinner. I came back out about 20 minutes later and the fuel pressure was still fluctuating. The, the pressure dropped to 15 psi and the car was barely running. I shut it off and then tried to re-start. 0psi fuel pressure. I watched the pump die before my eyes. Looks like that pump didn't like sitting in my garage for a year...
mm
first thing..pull end of vac line to regulator ..sniff to see if it smells like gas..
regulator might have started retirement without notice..
and it's the easiest part to replace so..hope ..for simple fixes..always..first
Yeah I checked the regulator. Definitely a bad pump. I just slapped one in and the fuel pressure is perfect now. Haven’t driven it yet.
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So. Fuel pressure is now perfect. But still runs like crap ugh. This car is frustrating me.
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Doing some testing last night. I have 3 volts going to the coil and the fuel injectors. I checked voltage coming out of the power module on the ASD relay circuit. 3 volts on the wire just a few inches from the PM. I checked the fusible link supplying power into the PM. I have battery voltage there. I don’t know how my fuel pump is priming and providing good pressure… but it is… with 3v lol. I removed the power module and am doing some testing on the ASD relay itself. It is working perfectly fine with no voltage drop across it. Using the old headlight bulb as a load. So… this pretty much has to mean that I am dropping voltage at the PM 10 pin connector.
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Been chasing wiring on this thing all morning. This thing did not like sitting and the wiring is just getting old. I had a bad ground on the LH fender. After finding/fixing that the car started and idled ok. I got the DRB3 hooked up along with a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is great. 52-55psi at idle and right around 60 psi with the vacuum line off the regulator. The DRB was giving all kinds of odd readings on the sensors. The O2 sensor was stuck low. I removed the 4 wire sensor and installed a brand new single wire sensor. This got the O2 sensor switching again. The engine coolant temp was reading like -50 F. I chased those wires to the LM and finally got it reading right just by unplugging/plugging in the LM. The TPS seems to be working perfect. The IAT and Bat Temp sensors are both reading 5.0 volts and nothing I have done is fixing that. Then the DRB disconnected and the car died. The car would then not re-start. I removed the LM plugs again and cleaned both the male and female pins with a wire brush and some sandpaper. I scraped into the female side with a small pick. Plugged it all in. The car fired right up and idled the best it has yet. The DRB hooked right up and everything looks good besides the IAT and Bat Temp still. I actually drove it around the neighborhood a bit and it ran ok. It seemed to stumble a little and didn't seem very powerful, but it drove. I'm going to get my hands on some good electrical contact cleaner and some Stabilant 22A and go from there.
Glad you are having some success with it. I'm really struggling with my Shelby lancer. I'm going to clean my PM and lm connectors more thoroughly and see if that helps some.
Ok. I realize I wasn’t well educated enough about the MAP operation of these cars to be calling my readings good. I am now 100 percent certain my running issue is a MAP problem. Key on engine off the DRB reads about 2.4-2.5 volts. That seems pretty close to right for a Baro reading. Starting the car does not change the voltage…. At all. Unhooking the MAP sensor should cause it to read 5 volts. Mine still reads the exact same when I unhook the MAP. Always 2.4-2.5 volts. This has to be an issue internally to the LM as the MAP wires come right off the board and are fine. Of course my curiosity takes over at this point and I will now proceed to rip into the board. Wish me luck lol. Oh yeah, my IAT sensor acts the exact same. So yeah. This board is wonky. Ugh. I understand IAT has very little effect compared to MAP. So I’ll try to Map out the MAP circuit on the board. Pardon my dad jokes.
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