Oil pressure supply line on 2.4L Q's....

[1FastCSX289]

Where are you guys pulling oil pressure from on the 2.4L block to feed the turbo? I am using a 2.4 out of a 97 Stratus.

Also, I planning on running the oil return right into one of the drain back channels that are on the back side of the block. There is a factory npt fitting drilled right into the side of the channel that runs through the middle of the block. Is there any issue with using this fitting?

[turboshad]

I grabbed my pressure from the stock oilpressure sensor location. (I think that is what it was) I just used a distribution block from the 2.5. In this picture it is where the yellowy green tape is behind the top of the oil drain line.




As far as the drain, I never thought of trying that. I'm not satisfied with my drain in the pan so I will be looking to change it to the block this spring.

DJ

[1FastCSX289]

I grabbed my pressure from the stock oilpressure sensor location. (I think that is what it was) I just used a distribution block from the 2.5. In this picture it is where the yellowy green tape is behind the top of the oil drain line.




As far as the drain, I never thought of trying that. I'm not satisfied with my drain in the pan so I will be looking to change it to the block this spring.

DJ

Gotcha. For whatever reason I didnt realize thats where the stock sensor went and by looking at it, it looks like those channels that are cut in the back of the block are for oil return from the head.....not pressure. OK, so that makes it easy. But now I have to run a return. Looks like you just welded a fitting into your oil pan. Did you put it into the pan for a reason? I was thinking of drilling and tapping the block.....right into the main cap girdle.

[turbovanman²]

To me, the block makes more sense, less chance of oil sloshing and blocking off the drain back.

[t3rse]

I used the same feed. As for oil sloshing...you would rather have oil drop right onto your spinning crank shaft? I'll bet money that the way DJ and I have done the drain backs (even though he isn't satisfied) with the oil hitting the number 1 main cap is worth a few horses over dumping it right onto the counterweight.

Sean, all those bosses on the back are pressure, there aren't any easy places to tap for the oil return. The best thing to do to maintain stock oil return location when using a 568 or 555 is to do what Rich did, and drill out and tap the stock hole and stick a 45* -an fitting in there. I may end up going this route eventually but if I do I'm going to put a baffle in there to keep the oil off the crank.

The only problem I've had with the oil pan return is smoking on start-up due to oil being too thick and backing up. This is compounded by the fact that I excessively high oil pressure. I have over 80 psi cold (at idle) which is higher than Holset allows and it burns oil on start-up. The 15w cold weight oil doesn't help thing with the temps we've been seeing around here lately. Two easy things to solve the issue: switch from 15w40 to 5w40, and put a restrictor in the feed line to turbo to bring oil pressure down to 30 min instead of a current hot running 60 psi idle.

[turbovanman²]

Why are you running 15w40?

[t3rse]

all the cool kids do it...

[turbovanman²]

all the cool kids do it...

Ahhhhhhhhh, gotcha,

[1FastCSX289]

Thanks for the info guys. I do not have a "stock" oil return because this isnt an SRT motor. Its just an N/A block. After taking a closer look, I may use the stock crank position sensor hole, which is on the back side of the block towards the front of the crank. Ill just tap the hole with 1/2 NPT. It looks like there is a good inch of space between the inside of the block and the counterweight on the crank. I dont see a lot of oil hitting the crank, especially with using a pretty large oil return hose.

Anyone see any other issues with using the crank sensor hole?

[turboshad]

Looks like you just welded a fitting into your oil pan. Did you put it into the pan for a reason?

My reason was that it was what I saw others do and it seemed the easiest. I have never had smoke on start up but I am also running a -16 drain (because I was trying to keep the 3/4" minimum cross section). After the fact I found the Holset manual which said I could have used a -10. They call for a minimum 1/2" drain which you would see in a -10 fitting even though the line will be 5/8". My dissatisfaction came from the warping of the aluminum fitting when I welded it. This means the two 37deg surfaces won't seal and I can't get rid of the oil leak. Since there is no room down there to thread in a fitting I think I will try putting one into the block.

[t3rse]

I welded in a bung and use a 90 bend then a pipe to an adapter..it took some forethought to get the 90* positioned where I could actually thread it in and no block pan bolts or hit tabs on the block.

[Austrian Dodge]

Thanks for the info guys. I do not have a "stock" oil return because this isnt an SRT motor. Its just an N/A block. After taking a closer look, I may use the stock crank position sensor hole, which is on the back side of the block towards the front of the crank. Ill just tap the hole with 1/2 NPT. It looks like there is a good inch of space between the inside of the block and the counterweight on the crank. I dont see a lot of oil hitting the crank, especially with using a pretty large oil return hose.

Anyone see any other issues with using the crank sensor hole?

this was exactly what i wanted to do as an oil return, except i didn't want to tap it 1/2"NPT but make a flange and o-ring on the crank sensor.

this is what i fabricated to be inside the block (no o-ring and flange at this time)


i feared that oil could hit the counterweight of the crank, so with this piece i hopefully prevented this.


couple weeks ago i dropped that idea, and i'm now in the process of making a crankcase breather out of it.
that tiny hole in the block might be good enough for stock engines, but even according to FIA rules there has to be a seperate block breather hole.

i'm going AN10 oil return in the pan now...

[1FastCSX289]

^^^ Thats not a bad idea. I may look into that. Thanks.

[BadAssPerformance]

I grabbed my pressure from the stock oilpressure sensor location.

Ditto

[BadAssPerformance]

i'm going AN10 oil return in the pan now...

Just make sure you plumb it as high in the pan as possible so its well above the oil level.

[Austrian Dodge]

Just make sure you plumb it as high in the pan as possible so its well above the oil level.

i thought about drilling and tapping a 1/2" NPT in the area DJ welded his fitting in...
i can't recall if the pan is thick enough there, so i may even have to weld that fitting (making sure that the sealing surface doesn't warp).

[contraption22]

As for oil sloshing...you would rather have oil drop right onto your spinning crank shaft? I'll bet money that the way DJ and I have done the drain backs (even though he isn't satisfied) with the oil hitting the number 1 main cap is worth a few horses over dumping it right onto the counterweight.

The only problem I've had with the oil pan return is smoking on start-up due to oil being too thick and backing up. This is compounded by the fact that I excessively high oil pressure. I have over 80 psi cold (at idle) which is higher than Holset allows and it burns oil on start-up. The 15w cold weight oil doesn't help thing with the temps we've been seeing around here lately. Two easy things to solve the issue: switch from 15w40 to 5w40, and put a restrictor in the feed line to turbo to bring oil pressure down to 30 min instead of a current hot running 60 psi idle.

I'm sure that the oil on the spinning crankshaft doesn't waste as much power as running such thick oil.

[turboshad]

i thought about drilling and tapping a 1/2" NPT in the area DJ welded his fitting in...
i can't recall if the pan is thick enough there, so i may even have to weld that fitting (making sure that the sealing surface doesn't warp).

You're biggest issue if putting a drain in where I did will be space. I had to machine the fitting down and take material off of the hose end to get it to clear the axle. This is why I had to weld it and couldn't just use a tapped piece.

[t3rse]

I'm sure that the oil on the spinning crankshaft doesn't waste as much power as running such thick oil.

I've yet to kill an engine. Ever.

[1FastCSX289]

I've yet to kill an engine. Ever.

yea. me too.