TU "Ultimate" Kevlar Street N' Strip Clutch

[Sloride]

Hey Ryan,

I actually ended up going with TU's 6-Puck, I love it so far! (Old RP unit got destroyed after 1 run at the track, 4-Puck)
It's a little chattery but bring the rev's up a little & it's fine,

How much has changed with your car lately?

heehhe lets see....

i finally put the 57trim t4/t3 with a "Stillie" ported head,
car was pulling like a mofo, then the Ring on cylinder 4 gave out 120 kms shy of 300,000

currently the motor is over at Gerry Jones (JA) shop im waiting for him to analyze the block for me so i can order some forged pistons.

im also in the process of doing the fuel lines/rail + the OBX and aluminum flywheel and choosing a proper clutch...

Going fast is becoming a pain in the ---

been driving a 1995 GEO TRACKER, which i picked up just before the daytona died. great winter beater. serious lack of power..... the old mitsu is looking like a mighty fine match for it.... but thats another project.

[87glhs232]

My 'S has the kevlar clutch. I love it. You have to very decisive about your clutch engagement. You can't slip it like most people would. I will chatter in stop and go, and it chatters a little in reverse on mine. Chatter seems to be deminishing as more miles are put on. Over all it's a great strip/street clutch, though more geared to strip. I have not been able to get it to slip. No instructions came with mine, but the rule for the flywheel surfacing is to match the surface of the pressure plate.

[mcsvt]

Same experiences here as Josh and I just keep putting on more miles. I think it gets even "grabbier" when heated up. Stop and go really isn't to much fun, but I have to deal with it every time I drive so it's second nature now.

[shelbyplaya]

i've got the TU 6 puck Ceramic clutch with the yellow PP. i'm moving a loaded 87 shelby z w/ t-tops on street tires. more then enough grabe to blow the tires off the ground on the track. i'm gonna be running a pair of 255/50/16 DR's today. i'll let you know how it holds up.

also i'm not pushing near as much power as you posted, but it holds up nice.

[johnl]

I have not been a fan of an aluminum flywheel in anything but a very light (no PS or AC etc) L body, then when the power went up over 400, I didn't like the flywheel once again. If you dont already have it consider a stocker with 3-4 lbs taken out of it, much better IMO.

I have the 6 puck TU clutch in one car (very streetable) and a 4 puck ready to go into another. Will report back when it's installed before end of summer...

Alan - what do you think of an aluminum flywheel hooked to a forged crank? That is, more mass in the crank, less in the flywheel . . . . ?

[2.216VTurbo]

Alan - what do you think of an aluminum flywheel hooked to a forged crank? That is, more mass in the crank, less in the flywheel . . . . ?

Yeah, that was my thoery with the GLHS and it was set up with the Fidanza and forged crank. From a launching standpoint it's fine, you don't have to rev the pi$$ out of it to keep it from falling on it's face from every stoplight. But remember, my GLHS is svelt, no PS no AC etc.. Even better with the composite hood, nice to get 80lbs more off the front Then, when the Masi motor and clutch were fully broken in after 2K miles or so (and the cracked intake manifold was figured out ) and I started turning up the boost (like at 17-18 currently) it bacame a tire rippin in fourth monster, and the RevLock is having trouble holding the power now. It lets go with a hiddeous groan that sounds almost like metal on metal! There is still debate on why the Aluminum flywheel would have any effect on this but when Melendy had the same issue, only change he made was pull the trans, bead blast the PP and install a cast iron flywheel-problem solved. So it goes back to my earlier speculation that the Aluminum flywheel is fine in a light car but less than 375-400 hp.

BTW John, I'm not the olny one here is waiting for some pics and details on your new 16V L body ...

[tryingbe]

I really doubt your GLHS hood is more than 50 lbs. I can lift my GLH's hood and move it easily by myself. I'll weight it tonight.

[2.216VTurbo]

I really doubt your GLHS hood is more than 50 lbs. I can lift my GLH's hood and move it easily by myself. I'll weight it tonight.

Certainly you are smarter than to compare an Omni hood to a bulge Charger hood right ? Careful now if you don't want to lose some credibility...

[tryingbe]

Notice I said "your GLHS" and "my GLH" I know the difference between the Charger GLHS and Omni GLH. They're both L-bodies and I can't believe there is ahuge difference in hood weight between charger and omni.

My GLH's hood is about 36 lbs, that's with the hood liner, grill, tray, vacuum line for the water nozzle, etc... I can't imagine the charger hood being 80+ lbs.