K1 rod feedback

[4 l-bodies]

K1 rods. Anyone that is running these, do you have any feedback? If your running Pauter, Cunningham, Crower, Carrillo, Eagle, GRP, why did you buy these over others?
Thanks,
Todd

[Austrian Dodge]

had them in the 8v engine, i don't think you could max them out power wise in with our engines.

very good product!!

[168glhs1986]

had them in the 8v engine, i don't think you could max them out power wise in with our engines.

very good product!!

That's good to hear as they about to go into my build and will have to handle 800+ hp.

[2.216VTurbo]

I know they are good to 7800 and 500ish so far Heck I even did a 5th to 2nd downshift at Fontana and they didn't let go Only let the clutch out for a milisecond but it sounded like 10K RPMS

[rx2mazda]

where did you guys buy yours from?

[168glhs1986]

where did you guys buy yours from?

Got mine from Aaron Miller (8valves) who built the engine, but I know he got them from Chris. I think he still sells them?

[turbovanman²]

I am running Eagle rods, I would have got the K1's but I got the Eagles for $200 off Ebay, brand new. So far, they've taken everything I"ve thrown at them. I did have them checked out to which I had been advised to do that, something about crappy machining.

Got mine from Aaron Miller (8valves) who built the engine, but I know he got them from Chris. I think he still sells them?

Yep, TU sells them.

[Directconnection]

I am running Eagle rods, I would have got the K1's but I got the Eagles for $200 off Ebay, brand new. So far, they've taken everything I"ve thrown at them. I did have them checked out to which I had been advised to do that, something about crappy machining.



Yep, TU sells them.

What I don't like about the Eagles is that they need to be bored out for the larger .912 pins, unless you want to install a bushing with a wall thickness of tin foil. When you do that... the small end of the rod becomes thinner, which in my eyes, might not be a good thing when throwing high rpms and a heavy piston at it (ie: forged turbo pistons)

I did modify a set for a 2.2 circle track car last season (who also won the track championship... yay!) that was running consistent 7,000+ rpms with no failures...... then again, the engine ran the LW rods the same super LIGHT Ross pistons for a few seasons with no issues, either.

Major reason *I* want to go with the K1 rods, plus you have to use the SRT-4 rod bearings as well... which are probably not as common on the shelf than the normal 2.2/2.5 set. I also remember they only have -.010 and -.020 sizes. SOL if you need a -.030 or a -.001 (unless the manufacturer stocks them)

[turbovanman²]

What I don't like about the Eagles is that they need to be bored out for the larger .912 pins, unless you want to install a bushing with a wall thickness of tin foil. When you do that... the small end of the rod becomes thinner, which in my eyes, might not be a good thing when throwing high rpms and a heavy piston at it (ie: forged turbo pistons)

I did modify a set for a 2.2 circle track car last season (who also won the track championship... yay!) that was running consistent 7,000+ rpms with no failures...... then again, the engine ran the LW rods the same super LIGHT Ross pistons for a few seasons with no issues, either.

Major reason *I* want to go with the K1 rods, plus you have to use the SRT-4 rod bearings as well... which are probably not as common on the shelf than the normal 2.2/2.5 set. I also remember they only have -.010 and -.020 sizes. SOL if you need a -.030 or a -.001 (unless the manufacturer stocks them)

That is true but so far, so good. I'll know in a few weeks how well they did as I am pulling the engine apart.

SRT bearings are a minor inconvenience plus I feel that .010 is the max you should go on the crank, maybe .020 if its a good one that's been balanced.

[Directconnection]

SRT bearings are a minor inconvenience plus I feel that .010 is the max you should go on the crank, maybe .020 if its a good one that's been balanced.

So why is that? Please do tell

BTW: have you shipped her out yet?

[4 l-bodies]

What I don't like about the Eagles is that they need to be bored out for the larger .912 pins, unless you want to install a bushing with a wall thickness of tin foil. When you do that... the small end of the rod becomes thinner, which in my eyes, might not be a good thing when throwing high rpms and a heavy piston at it (ie: forged turbo pistons)

I did modify a set for a 2.2 circle track car last season (who also won the track championship... yay!) that was running consistent 7,000+ rpms with no failures...... then again, the engine ran the LW rods the same super LIGHT Ross pistons for a few seasons with no issues, either.

Major reason *I* want to go with the K1 rods, plus you have to use the SRT-4 rod bearings as well... which are probably not as common on the shelf than the normal 2.2/2.5 set. I also remember they only have -.010 and -.020 sizes. SOL if you need a -.030 or a -.001 (unless the manufacturer stocks them)

Steve and everyone thanks for your comments. I do have a couple ?'s on what you said though. The 2.2/2.5 SRT and Caliber all carry different parts #'s in the K1 brand rod. All slightly different lengths & weights. In a nutshell, If I am reading you correct, you use the later SRT model bearing when using the K1 rod? I also seem to remember reading that.
I may need to call on these, as K1's catalog lists the caliber/SRT/and 2.2/2.5 rod as having all different crank pin sizes in addition to all different lengths? That doesn't seem correct. I was going to attach the K1 Engineering PDF catalog, but it is too large.
Todd

[4 l-bodies]

Okay saved page 7 only from K1 catalog in pdf document. See attached. specs don't seem correct.
Todd

[GLHNSLHT2]

Does the caliber use a world engine? only reason I could see the rod being a different length from the mopar 2.4 in the SRT.

[turbovanman²]

So why is that? Please do tell

BTW: have you shipped her out yet?

Crap, forgot,

Again, my personal opinion, no one else's, that we are already pushing the cast crank and why weaken it more?

Steve and everyone thanks for your comments. I do have a couple ?'s on what you said though. The 2.2/2.5 SRT and Caliber all carry different parts #'s in the K1 brand rod. All slightly different lengths & weights. In a nutshell, If I am reading you correct, you use the later SRT model bearing when using the K1 rod? I also seem to remember reading that.
I may need to call on these, as K1's catalog lists the caliber/SRT/and 2.2/2.5 rod as having all different crank pin sizes in addition to all different lengths? That doesn't seem correct. I was going to attach the K1 Engineering PDF catalog, but it is too large.
Todd

I can only guess that Chris has them made to his specs, which would most likely use the regular 2.2/2.5 bearing. For our engines and the 2.4L, they are identical in length and big end size but the SRT use a .866 wrist pin, our stock size is .901 and we also use .912 and .927" so that could explain the different part numbers.

[Austrian Dodge]

TU is making them on their specs, so you use 2.2/2.5 rod bearings and the wrist pin. i also had mine checked just because i'm anal about it ... didn't have to do anything on them!!

check out my getto "beeing anal about balance"-test



as other people already mentioned, with eagles you have to use srt4 bearings and hone the small end for our wrist pin size...
+ having them checked and machined might sum up your costs and you could have gotten K1's in first place

but thats just my $0.02

[badandy]

TU is making them on their specs, so you use 2.2/2.5 rod bearings and the wrist pin. i also had mine checked just because i'm anal about it ... didn't have to do anything on them!!

check out my getto "beeing anal about balance"-test



as other people already mentioned, with eagles you have to use srt4 bearings and hone the small end for our wrist pin size...
+ having them checked and machined might sum up your costs and you could have gotten K1's in first place

but thats just my $0.02

Are you sure "TU is making them to thier specs"? The reason I ask is because I have found the exact same rod other places...my point being is that they come from K1 for 2.2/2.5 ready to go.

[rx2mazda]

Are you sure "TU is making them to thier specs"? The reason I ask is because I have found the exact same rod other places...my point being is that they come from K1 for 2.2/2.5 ready to go.

Their website says "custom" so, I would think and hope he gets them made custom specs. Maybe Chris can chime in.....

[badandy]

Their website says "custom" so, I would think and hope he gets them made custom specs. Maybe Chris can chime in.....

Hmmm...yeah I hope so too. I am interested in what extra TU has done to these already nice rods! I found this on another sight:

2.2/2.5L turbo H DH5972AGHB4-A 5.972 606 Bushed w/.901 pin $359.99

So for the almost $150.00 difference there has got to be something special he has done.

[puppet]

So what about the metallurgic content on these rods? Being Chinese can the propaganda be trusted ... like the Dart block knockoffs?

[4 l-bodies]

TU is making them on their specs, so you use 2.2/2.5 rod bearings and the wrist pin. i also had mine checked just because i'm anal about it ... didn't have to do anything on them!!

as other people already mentioned, with eagles you have to use srt4 bearings and hone the small end for our wrist pin size...
+ having them checked and machined might sum up your costs and you could have gotten K1's in first place

but thats just my $0.02

I personally do not think TU's K1 rod is a custom spec'd rod. Chris very well could have had some input when they came to market. IMO, he is just ordering the 2.2/2.5 rod vs. the SRT rod. I tried to purchase a set from TU and found the length to be not alterable. I was building a Masi motor and had some JE's with a .866 pin already in hand. Pin diameter was already fixed at .901, so there was going to be another $80-125 charge to rebush and rehone. That tells me they are coming to him already finished. Decided to go another route, as I could get "true" custom made aluminum rods (GRP) for less ching and way lighter.

Okay good info. Sounds like the 2.2/2.5 rods (dh5972aghb4-a) from K1 uses the standard CP-1269 bearing. As DirectConnection was referring that you needed to use the SRT bearing. I would say that would be the case if you ordered the SRT rod.

Using the SRT rod would also make the pistons down the hole another .027. You would need to deck block, head, change piston CH, or run shallower dish piston to compensate. Pin size is also different at .866 or 22mm.
Todd