The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

[turboshad]

Nope, all those forces are transferred through the contact of the two pieces. The load on the bolts is only the pre-loaded from what your torque them to. How are they taking a radial load from the engine when they are in slots?

[tsiconquest88]

well wouldnt there be a radial load from the belt being right on the thing lol?

[turboshad]

Load from the belt goes into the outer and through the contact patch into the inner to the cam. The cam is another piece where the load is transfered through friction. On the 2.4/2.0 heads if you don't torque the cam bolts enough to get the friction forces the alignment dowel will shear off. This is because it's only purpose it to align the cam and gear, not take any load.

[Reaper1]

Stainless, while pretty, is kinda weak, unless you ante up for some aircraft quality stuff. I say replace with ARP stuff!

[turbovanman²]

#4 on the impact gun works everytime,

[rx2mazda]

well wouldnt there be a radial load from the belt being right on the thing lol?

Your not gonna win this one so just stop! lol.

Anyways, I got back from California @ 6pm Yesterday, checked the tracking number on my package from Cindy and it said "delivered".......Got home and it wasn't there, typical UPS. It was getting dark and I don't have a garage so, I didn't have much time to wait, plus I was exhausted from the 2-stop flight from Burbank. At 7pm I lost all hope and left my house to get something to eat. When I got back around 9:30 there was the box. So, no time to get the car ready for NJ today I'm gonna put it back together tomorrow and try to hit TnT @ Cecil on Wednesday.

Guess I'll have to do some more bench racing until then since DJ is getting close to my speeds! BTW, Thanks Jackson for the new Timing belt!

[tsiconquest88]

Not trying to win ----. What he is saying just dont seem right to me. Obviously the bolts are holding these things and i have used them myself on 2.6's BUT i have always fealt that there is a load on those fasteners and wonder how they dont come loose. Seems like common sense to me. The main bolt holds the pulley on we know. But each of those slotted holes for the adjustment with those liitle bolts seeems to amaze me that they hold cus again there must be a load on them the belt is on it spinning that gear right at that spot. The main bolt that holds the cam gear on is just spinning with the cam via a spinning crank and not to mention a much larger bolt that gets tightened much more. The load is more at the belt riding the gear teeth if anything.

[Reaper1]

Those bolts only see tension. They do not see shear unless something else is wrong, ie they came loose and are now at the end of their adjustment and are the only things keeping the 2 parts from spinning past each other.

As stated, the flat machined surfaces transfer the radial load through friction. Believe it or not, that force is strong enough to do that. Think about how brakes or a clutch works...same thing.

[Directconnection]

The main bolt that holds the cam gear on is just spinning with the cam via a spinning crank and not to mention a much larger bolt that gets tightened much more. The load is more at the belt riding the gear teeth if anything.

Because the 1/4-20 bolts are on a larger radius than the center bolt. The further out that radius is, the less likely they are to "slip"

[Directconnection]

Also... I partly agree with TSi, but maybe only 10%

Make believe the back side of the oem gear is almost full contact on the backside. Now, using other's theoretical analysis on shear only happening *once it starts slipping* -what if I used a really small bolt hole circle to place those 1/4-20 bolts at? Let's say for $hits and giggles: a 1" diameter vs. 4" diameter. Which bolt hole circle would would you feel safer with? (and for analogy sake... make the disc 1" thick so there's no deflection)

I know I didn't make these gears, but all the ones I made in the past, I made with the largest bolt hole circle possible for the *best frictional contact patch* so to speak. But yeah, once the forces overcome that frictional "lock" then the bolts become subjected to some extreme stresses.

I think TSi's reasoning is the simple physics explanation I remember my teacher preaching in college. You have someone pushing on a wall with 200lbft of pressure, then the wall is pushing back 200lbft if it's not moving. (someone here will put it into much better words than I)

BTW: where's the dragstrip results!!!!

[tsiconquest88]

I am not talking about shearing guys. If your thinking along what reaper1 just mentioned. I'm simply saying i cant beleive those little fasteners dont allow that gear to move from adjustment from the supposed force that supposedly isnt there lol.

[86Shelby]

A 3/16" bolt torqued to 4 ft/lb will deliver just shy of 1300 pounds of pressure. So total you are looking at over 5,000 pounds of pressure holding the two peices together.

As far as shearing strength goes... The adjustment bolts in question on my cam gear did come loose once. The bolts didn't break. They bent a wee little bit and pounded the crap out the adjustment slot. I really need to just get a new center section since it's not 100% centered anymore.

[rx2mazda]

What a BULLSH*T day it was for me!

Finally got to Cecil for a Wednesday night Test-N-Tune and man did it go south quickly. Gates opened at 5pm and I was there at 4:30. Paid, got in and put the slicks on then waited for Brian to get there so we could dial in my Ignition timing and cam/crank sync on the ECU. Got the cam/crank sync set-up and went to check the timing....this is where it went south. Locked the timing on the spark table to 30 degrees and revved the motor to make verify that actual timing stayed at 30degrees throughout the rpms....it didn't. After about 2500rpms the timing would just start advancing, as much as 15degrees by 4500rpms! We tried everything but it just wasn't gonna work. I was also getting a "badsync" reading from the ECU, we're pretty sure the cam sensor is the culprit. Gonna go to Brian's tomorrow to use his sensor to verify. Sucks because tonight was the PERFECT night for racing...mid 60's with a tailwind and only about 50 cars running! Took the slicks off and headed home - disappointed.

As B said, at least I didn't try to run it like that and blow it up when the self advancing timing went crazy high! Big thanks to Brian for driving down from Philly to help me, sorry we didn't get to race/tune! Hopefully I can get down the track next week.

[roachjuice]

You should match the crabs color with your rt wheels.

[turbovanman²]

That's gay,

Speaking of gay, what's up with the pink wheels? lol.

[86Shelby]

Tough blow. Sorry to hear that you couldn't run. I was hoping you'd skip the 12s and 11s and hit a 10 right off the trailer...unlikely but it's nice to aim high.

[Shadow]

Glad you didn't Hurt anything! Trust me, you've waited this long, just keep it as safe as you can and it will come together!

Sorry it turbed out that way, but impressed with your self restraint! (you'd be surprized how many would have tried running anyway)

[Aries_Turbo]

you'd be surprized how many would have tried running anyway

cough, cough, simon, cough, cough




Brian

[tsiconquest88]

^ lmao That man can't catch a break. Some how he fits in any thread for one reason or another!

[Austrian Dodge]

i don't think it's the cam sensor as ignition timing is related to the crank signal

is there any setting called "variable trigger angle" in your ECU?
haltech has this feature just because of that.

i had to alter it on my 2.4
when i locked ignition timing at 10° reved up the timing mark just drifted away!!



hope that helps