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Thread: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

  1. #1341
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    As much as I like to trash talk you, I'm dying to see your car realize its potential. Good luck!
    Quote Originally Posted by turboshad View Post
    ^^^^What cereal boy said. As much as I like making websites about you.................
    LOL, thanks fellas. You have no idea how much I wanna make a good clean pass!

    Ordered up struts/shocks and strut mounts all the way around from Rock Auto. Car felt like a waterbed when I stabbed the brakes at the top of 3rd....not fun. Cheap insurance as everything was on clearance...payed $94 for everything shipped! Hopefully I have better luck than some people have had with these Rock Auto "new" parts. I figure anything will be better than the original stock stuff from 85. Will probably cut half a spring off the front and 1 from the back to lower it some. Anybody have experience with cutting stock L-body springs? how much?

    This is a temporary fix until I can order up some coil-overs from Rich B. Thanks

  2. #1342
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff contraption22's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Sweet! Can't wait to see it run!
    Mike Marra
    1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
    Project Log:
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=

  3. #1343

    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    I think with the design of the spring, you have to cut one coil from the front, but the rear you can cut it anywhere since it seats differently. Eventually, I'd look at a coil over setup for adjustability and firmness. The konis are good, I like the BCs better, but there are some who have used a few different setups that you wouldn't mind think would bolt up, but do with a little effort.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  4. #1344
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: Another Holset TIII..

    Quote Originally Posted by rx2mazda View Post
    So sad and so true. It has made it to the track twice since it ran. 1st time was with me and Brian and I had the timing advance issue that kept me from running. Then I ran it at Cecil, 1st slow start test pass ran a 12.9. 2nd pass broke an axle. 3rd pass the timing issue came back and I bent a rod.

    This car is haunted. Wish me luck at SDAC!
    Good Luck Bro!

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  5. #1345
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff contraption22's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by minigts View Post
    I think with the design of the spring, you have to cut one coil from the front, but the rear you can cut it anywhere since it seats differently.
    For the rear, take a single coil out of the middle of the spring.
    Mike Marra
    1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
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  6. #1346
    turbo addict
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by contraption22 View Post
    For the rear, take a single coil out of the middle of the spring.

    Then clamp together. Use 2 extra clamps per side to ensure it holds

  7. #1347
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by 168glhs1986 View Post
    Then clamp together. Use 2 extra clamps per side to ensure it holds
    I've only used one and it's held fine.

  8. #1348
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: Another Holset TIII..

    Think I can get away with heat shrinking it together
    Carroll

    SILVER, 85 GLH-R/T, TIII powered, Fueltech, ID1300's. PTE5857
    RED, 91 Spirit R/T - Holset HE351 - 12.6 @ 107...R.I.P.



  9. #1349
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Another Holset TIII..

    Quote Originally Posted by rx2mazda View Post
    Think I can get away with heat shrinking it together
    You're a genious. Seriously, that's the smartest thing I've heard in a while. Kudos.

  10. #1350
    boostaholic
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by rx2mazda View Post
    Anybody have experience with cutting stock L-body springs? how much?
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ngs&highlight=

  11. #1351
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Thanks, I saw that thread. There was some conflicting info there. I'm gonna try a 1/2 off the front spring and 1 1/2 off the back and see where that gets me. My new stuff came in today and my car is at my buddies shop. He's doing the work for me so I can be ready to leave on Sunday.
    Carroll

    SILVER, 85 GLH-R/T, TIII powered, Fueltech, ID1300's. PTE5857
    RED, 91 Spirit R/T - Holset HE351 - 12.6 @ 107...R.I.P.



  12. #1352
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    My buddy got the new suspension on for me while I was out of town. Got a really good ride height with taking 1 spring off the front and 1 1/2 off the back. Car rides way better now, not bouncy at all! There is a constant metal on metal noise(tinging)coming from the engine bay that I need to investigate today. Hopefully its nothing major. **fingers crossed** Late but I'm gonna try and order some spare axles too.

  13. #1353
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Update:

    Man this car is F**cking pissing me off. So I got the car back from Brian after Steve put 15 new valve guides in, car still smoked after decel or after idling for a few minutes. Brian didn't think it was the oil ring because he's never had one give him a problem on a rebuilt engine. But, Steve just went through the head again....we were puzzled. I was not happy but other than a little puff of smoke it was running great. I decided I was still gonna make passes at SDAC, I registered for the drag and went up to SDAC with my slicks, tools and spare axles.

    The night before the drag Brian and I went out to do some tuning runs and check the calibration out before the morning. Did about 4-5 pulls before the rain started and put a stop to the progress. Car felt great and I was excited to make passes!! Got back to the hotel and parked the car, then somebody asked me to move the car so they could get out. When I went to start the car it turned over slow and started, I didn't think anything of it...

    Wake up that morning and loaded all my racing gear into my car, go to start it and the batteries dead, WTF? I have a little jump box so I jump it. Look at the Voltage gauge and it's not charging! Alternator is shot. Tried the external voltage regulator but it wasn't that. Looked over my datalogs from that night before and could see where the voltage dropped out around 7k rpm of my last run. By this time everybody had left the hotel and was at the track. I was pissed beyond imagination, I called AAA and towed my car home.

    Ended up attributing the failed VR to a insufficient battery to chassis ground.....like really insufficient. Been running the motor up to 7200rpms while tuning and no voltage issues. Hopefully that problem is solved for good. But, I still have the oil consumption problem and I want to fix it. I spent hard earned money on a rebuilt motor and head and I just want it to run good and not smoke. Not to mention oil does bad things to octane ratings and I don't want anymore problems. So Brian reiterated that he didn't think the oil was coming from the bottom end and told me he had a stock TIII head I could swap on to test.

    Well today I decided I would pull the Exhaust manifold again to see if I could see oil on the valves.......


    As you can see, It looks like the oil is coming from around the outside of the guides and not even down the valve stem? FML Please send me some encouragement/luck cause i'm running on "E".

  14. #1354
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor 2.216VTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    So I suppose I the wrong guy to talk you off of the ledge about TIII's(Jackson, where are you??) Ive got one selling soon and the last TIII powerplant I have in the Rampage RT, smokes too after all I've done to avert it Can't wait to drop a trouble free and smokeless Masi motor in there...

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  15. #1355
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by 2.216VTurbo View Post
    So I suppose I the wrong guy to talk you off of the ledge about TIII's(Jackson, where are you??) Ive got one selling soon and the last TIII powerplant I have in the Rampage RT, smokes too after all I've done to avert it Can't wait to drop a trouble free and smokeless Masi motor in there...
    LOL, I'm not going Masi. Just need to figure out wtf is going on with this head! Steve has done his best to take care of the situation so this is in no way a dig on him. At this point he's probably made no money off the head between everything he's done for me. I just want to get the damn thing fixed!

    BTW, Jackson told me that his Mom's TC is now the Fastest in the world!

  16. #1356
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    If it's leaking around the guide there is either a crack or the guide hole has scratches or is not round. Not wanting to think there is a crack I would pull the guides and try something like Loctite 2620 to help seal the OD.

    http://www.henkelna.com/product-sear...=8797948444673

  17. #1357
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rx2mazda's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Quote Originally Posted by turboshad View Post
    If it's leaking around the guide there is either a crack or the guide hole has scratches or is not round. Not wanting to think there is a crack I would pull the guides and try something like Loctite 2620 to help seal the OD.

    http://www.henkelna.com/product-sear...=8797948444673
    Yeah, looks like a small crack around the #4 guide(first one in the video) but, it could be nothing. I'll get the head off tomorrow and inspect closer.

  18. #1358
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Please send me some encouragement.
    Pat Culkin.......nuff said.


    If there's a crack there is something you can get that will seep into the crack to seal it. I can't remember what it's called but I think it was also a Loctite/Henkle product. Maybe try calling a rep.

  19. #1359
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Turbo Joe's Avatar
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    stay at it Carroll, I felt the same way when I found out my other head was bad.. but after getting it going again the smiles return I want to see it at cecil this year
    Turbo Joe
    ----------------------- 87 CSX #175 TIII powered, MegaSquirt3 Pro Ultimate, GTX3076R, Turbo Joe header, Lengel intake, Menegon ported head, the list goes on

  20. #1360
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    Re: The Making of the "GLH-R/T"

    Are the tops of some of those ports white or what? It looks really strange. I agree with the holes not being round or scratched and/or possible cracks. I also agree that this is no reason to quit and I do believe that there is a product that will take care of this issue. Maybe the green Loctite? I know it is meant to seep into places like already tightened screws, etc.

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