1988 Sundance - Randomly Shuts Off??

[Jeff S]

I need some help you guys, my car has started suddenly shutting off at various times...whether its in park, idling, or driving any speed...there are no warning signs of it shutting off, it just dies...all electric stays on the motor just stops running.

I have noticed that when it dies while running sometimes itl kickstart itself back up...if Im parked or idling and I try to start it it will just crank all day long but never start...I have to put the key in the "OFF" position, then it'll fire with no issue at all...sometimes it will run an hour without a problem, and sometimes it will happen 2-3 times within a 3 minute period.

Built in diagnostic returns a 1255 --- nothing wrong...

Ive replaced the fuel filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires...plugs werent fouled and the car idles fine and drives fine, however it does feel like the car doesnt get hardly any power at all, you really have to hit the gas to get it moving...no spitting, sputtering or anything else.

Has a 2.2L non-turbo automatic, no performance parts, bone stock.

Any thoughts? Thanks for any help...its a daily driver so I need to get it fixed ASAP and I dont know where to look anymore without spending a lot of cash for a part that might not fix it.

[ScottD]

Two things come to mind. The hall effect can die and cause the car to randomly stall. The hall effect is under the distributor cap. When I've had this happen though everything else is fine. A dying hall effect will not always trigger a code.

Since you mention the car seems to be starving for power, maybe the fuel pump is on its way out. I had a Daytona that would run fine until the fuel pump warmed up enough that it would just quit. Let the car sit and it would start right back up. If you have a fuel pressure gauge I would check your fuel pressure and go from there.

[cordes]

If the tac drops to 0 while you are driving it is almost certainly the HEP. It could also be a faulty ignition switch too.

[lazy glh]

+3 on HEP. If you can get it running and start wiggling the wires going into the HEP, it may stall, confirming the problem. If it doesn't quit when you wiggle it, it doesn't necessarily mean it isn't the problem, but it is a quick check.

[Jeff S]

Thanks a lot for the replies guys, really appreciate it

Two things come to mind. The hall effect can die and cause the car to randomly stall. The hall effect is under the distributor cap. When I've had this happen though everything else is fine. A dying hall effect will not always trigger a code.

Since you mention the car seems to be starving for power, maybe the fuel pump is on its way out. I had a Daytona that would run fine until the fuel pump warmed up enough that it would just quit. Let the car sit and it would start right back up. If you have a fuel pressure gauge I would check your fuel pressure and go from there.

I'll check the hall effect on my next day off, and I'll see if I can get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge...if it was the fuel pressure dropping wouldnt the car spit and sputter before it dies and start right back up when it shuts off? I actually have to turn the key to the "Off" position to re-start it, and I can start it up right after it shuts off by doing that.

If the tac drops to 0 while you are driving it is almost certainly the HEP. It could also be a faulty ignition switch too.

The tach is bad in the car, it fluctuates wildly while driving, it does read accurate unless the car is idling or off.

+3 on HEP. If you can get it running and start wiggling the wires going into the HEP, it may stall, confirming the problem. If it doesn't quit when you wiggle it, it doesn't necessarily mean it isn't the problem, but it is a quick check.

Im going out to test this now since everyone suggesting the HEP

Again, thanks a lot! I didnt want to spend $60 on a diagnostic when I got people right here that knows more about these cars then any shop would

EDIT:Just went out to test the HEP...seems the wires that runs into it are clamped down with the cap...there is not a notch on it to keep the wires from being pinched so its tightened down pretty hard against the distributor and the cap....could this be the problem?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_554476809___
This is the what you guys are talking about right?

[cordes]

That is what we are talking about, but the HEP in the pic is a non-turbo HEP.

If there is no slot for the HEP wires, someone may have installed the cap backwards, but put the wires in the correct order still. That would still not be good since there is a notch on the cap which corresponds to a notch in the hep and the dist cap is probably at a bit of an angle when installed backwards.

[Mr. P Body]

Could be the Coil heating up too . I had a 85 Ramcharger that gave me fits over this even after I bought a brand new one from the parts store . The old coil was bad and so was the new one .

[shadow88]

My vote goes with a fuel pump. They die without codes, suddenly, and ramdomly come back to life. They also can die a little, as is to produce less than they should before dying and causing the lack of power. Although 2.2L non turbo auto cars are no rockets. lol

[Jeff S]

I replaced the Hall Effect and guess what? No more problems! It even fixed my dash tach from bouncing wildly!

Thanks a lot you guys! If it wasnt for you Id have a LOT more money tied up in needlessly replacing things trying to hunt down the problem then I could afford

[cordes]

I replaced the Hall Effect and guess what? No more problems! It even fixed my dash tach from bouncing wildly!

Thanks a lot you guys! If it wasnt for you Id have a LOT more money tied up in needlessly replacing things trying to hunt down the problem then I could afford

Glad to hear that you got that figured out.