95 Tracker no start

[Sloride]

We cant seem to get my damned tracker to fire up!
It has spark, it has fuel, it has compression.

Awhile ago I replaced the cap in the 16v.... Do to a rotted screw I had to pull the entire dissy out to remove the cap.

(Before pulling the distributor out, I set the motor at TDC)

After reassembly she fired right up and I timed her.
(Yes I pulled the coolant temp sensor and jumped the little connector thing)

However, I was only able to time the car to about 10* before running out of adjustment space. I was leaving work so this 2* advanced condition was reasonable.

Here's where it get interesting.....
Being an anal perfectionist, I wanted to get the distributor back to its original position which 'is in the middle' of the adjustment area (so i would be able to advance and retard the ign if need be)

So again I set the engine at Tdc and pulled the dis and rotated it back a bit.
and replaced.

Now My mechanic and I cant get it to fire up, She chugs and chugs but it just wont catch.

My mech then pulled the timing cover and found the tension-er broken-ish (not as much tension as should be, it was out 3 teeth) and the timing belt kinda loose. He replaced and reset the timing.

The Tracker is still exhibiting the exact same symptoms as before....

Any Ideas??

[turbovanman²]

How did you line up the timing belt? My neighbour got it wrong, its not timed how you think it is.

[Sloride]

There is a nub on the crank that lines up with the oil pump housing mark and there is a mark on the rear timing cover and the sprocket....


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.rlb.50megs.com/graphics/trkcrankpully.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.rlb.50megs.com/trktimebelt.html&usg=__GtvxPsR0rBtIwl0dlfpgk4URZBw =&h=287&w=343&sz=17&hl=en&start=55&um=1&tbnid=MnrU GLyaJIF_eM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcam%2Btiming%2Bgeo%2Btracker%26ndsp%3 D21%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26sa%3DN%26start%3D42%26um%3D1

the spring above "a" in the 3rd picture was gone...

is a picture of the cam side
http://www.fixya.com/uploads/Images/2EFA731.jpg

[Sloride]

... it seems I have a shitty rotor after reading this...

it can go 3 ways....
http://www.kick-fix.com/IGN_timing/index.html

[turbovanman²]

... it seems I have a shitty rotor after reading this...

it can go 3 ways....
http://www.kick-fix.com/IGN_timing/index.html

Yep, that's the link we used, he did his timing belt and it wouldn't start, found that link and fixed, started right up. I honestly dont' know how they can mess up a timing belt job, idiots-the engineers that is.

[RoadWarrior222]

So again I set the engine at Tdc and pulled the dis and rotated it back a bit.
and replaced.

How much was a "bit"?

Really you only want to try and slip one tooth on the drive, and if you thought you did that, because it's a helical drive usually, it's easy to catch 2 or 3 teeth back by mistake.


Now caps can confuse the hell out of you, when the electrodes are routed under the cap so the wires go on 1234, and you wire it 1342, check that hasn't happened.


I figure now you need to go back to the start. Put the cap on, mark #1 electrode position, (Not the wire position, may not be the same!) on outside of diz, remove cap. Put engine at TDC, pull diz, set rotor to #1 mark, put back in, holding it there, jiggle until it goes down, if you have some rotation on the helical gear, allow for it, so it still points at #1 when seated, now cinch bolt down enough to hold it, turn engine over and bring it back to TDC and check rotor is back at #1 mark. Now, adjust it to about 1/4 of the range advanced from center (i.e. halfway to the stop from center) put the cap back, double check the wires are right, drop a live chicken and a honda hubcover int he nearest volcano and it should fire and run.

[Sloride]

drop a live chicken and a honda hubcover int he nearest volcano and it should fire and run.

Lol

"A bit" was making the rotor point slightly before the mark i made on the distributor (it was slightly after)

We shall see what happens monday...

[shackwrrr]

how did it ever go. Jerry is a smart guy(kick-fix owner). He helped me out alot with my 'kick. Sold it to buy my TD

[Sloride]

not so well,
I did the procedure many times.
the live chicken didnt work, the car still wont start.

methinks its time for the scrapyard and $300....

[shackwrrr]

the rockers wouldnt have happened to been loosend up have they? maybe they didnt get readjusted. also did you take the crank pulley off? I know they can cause trouble when the keyway in the crank goes. The crank nut is supposed to be 190 ft lbs or something like that. I never had the cap off of my dizzy but is it like a Tm with the shutterwheel attached to the rotor? maybe it was assembed wrong.

Have you talked to jerry? you should be able to email him at kick-fix. Or you could go to suzuki-forums.com

[Sloride]

Well, the tracker has been replaced by a semi-chrysler product

A 04 mini cooper S. 67000 kms

[Big_P]

I was gonna say. I once got my --- KICKED by a side job I did on one of those things. That thing kept me awake at night for WEEKS. I never even fixed it. Still bothers me to this day, and this was about 3 years ago.


They need 170psi across the board to run, no less.

[Sloride]

funny thing, before i broke it I had 140 across all 4.

and it was the same after...

Its like one of those evil brain teaser puzzles.

However I pick up my semi dodge today, which should help me forget

[Big_P]

Burn the tracker.

[MeandMyShadow]

TDC could be anywhere the rotor lands. You need to align all marks first w/#1 TDC (which I know you know), but I sounds like you got the rotor 180 off. I remember timing my metro vert and I got the rotor 180 off and it just hard a very hard time to start and chugged horribly if it caught. I say, pull any covers you need to and check your crank, cams, tdc of #1, and rotor to make sure its all aligned. jmo Hope this helps.

[Sloride]

the tracker is gone to a better place.