Thrust bearing failure?

[gasketmaster]

Sounds like your governor weight is stuck

My trans. quit down-shifting to 1st upon stopping. I noticed the kickdown cable had been knocked down from the throttle bracket, so I put it back on, but it still won't downshift to first. If I am driving and I floor it, it will downshift to 2nd, but it won't downshift to 1st at all. If I go from reverse to drive, it will go to 1st, but then it won't ever go back. I tried to slam it into park at about 35 mph, but that didn't help. I readjusted the kickdown cable (I think). Should the kickdown cable have any preload?

-Les

[turbovanman²]

Sounds like your governor weight is stuck

+2,

[fastasleep]

Thanks Terry and Simon!

Can't this be remedied by slamming it into Park at about 40 mph? I tried that, but to no avail. Also, it will manually go to first.
Is there a better way to remedy a sticky governor weight? I'll search..........

-Les

[turbovanman²]

Thanks Terry and Simon!

Can't this be remedied by slamming it into Park at about 40 mph? I tried that, but to no avail. Also, it will manually go to first.
Is there a better way to remedy a sticky governor weight? I'll search..........

-Les

Gotta take it apart. Its not that bad, just messy.


http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...&articleid=174

[fastasleep]

Sweet. What other mods should I do at the same time? I have a 190,XXX-mile trans. with no mods other than a Mopar trans. filter and a HUGE front-mounted trans. cooler.

-Les

[turbovanman²]

Replace the rear band strut with a Sonnax unit, block the accumulator, turn up the line pressure a bit, do the valve body mods-

http://web.archive.org/web/200312090...s%20detail.htm

[fastasleep]

Got it.

-Les

[rbryant]

That makes sense because the light contact to the turbine was on the center section side and the damage to the compressor was on the compressor cover side. But my exhaust is wide open (full 3")! I'll get pics.

Rich, can you try the vid at home?

-Les

It doesn't sound like surge to me. Surge occurs when you are trying to build boost and the engine isn't capable of flowing enough air at a given boost pressure. It happens normally at low RPMs and higher horsepower. For instance if you are going 50 in 5th gear and punch it you are likely to surge.

With the 40 trim on a 2.5 I find it unlikely that you were surging (based on the map you should be well out of the surge limits)

This sounds more like compressor wheel reversion without a BOV. The BOV should be a loud rush of air like "wuuhhh chhh" without the chrrrrr chrrr chrrr sound.

-Rich

[fastasleep]

Rich,

How do I get rid of the chrrr chrrr chrrr sound? It seems like the BOV is quickly opening and closing (the chrr chrr chrr sound), which would cause turbulence inside the charge pipes. And I can see how that would work a thrust bearing to death.
I started paying more attention to this after this failure, so I began to look at the BOV. I changed the reference point from the vacuum tree I was using (about 6 linear feet of vacuum line) to its own reference point right off of the intake (about 1 linear foot of vacuum line). Then I took all four shims out but the BOV wanted to let air escape at about 12 psi. I put two shims back in and it seems to do a little better, but the chrrr chrrr chrrr sound still remains a little.
What can I do? BTW, the BOV is a new TurboXS RFL.

-Les

[Chris W]

Rich,

How do I get rid of the chrrr chrrr chrrr sound? It seems like the BOV is quickly opening and closing (the chrr chrr chrr sound), which would cause turbulence inside the charge pipes. And I can see how that would work a thrust bearing to death.
I started paying more attention to this after this failure, so I began to look at the BOV. I changed the reference point from the vacuum tree I was using (about 6 linear feet of vacuum line) to its own reference point right off of the intake (about 1 linear foot of vacuum line). Then I took all four shims out but the BOV wanted to let air escape at about 12 psi. I put two shims back in and it seems to do a little better, but the chrrr chrrr chrrr sound still remains a little.
What can I do? BTW, the BOV is a new TurboXS RFL.

-Les

Les,

As Rich mentioned above, a properly functioning BOV will have one single "Woosh" sound. In the case of the RFL it will be very noticeable. What I heard in your video sounds more like what you hear when there is no BOV. This would explain the failure of your thrust bearing. When your engine is producing boost and you suddenly close the throttle body the boosted air has no where to go. The boost pulse hits the TB butterfly, turns around and heads back at the compressor wheel forcing it in much like as if you pushed your compressor wheel in while it was rotating. The boost pulse then turns around again and heads back up to the throttle body. This cycle repeats itself until the energy is dispersed. All along the compressor wheel/shaft is pushed in and out which is what puts wear on the thrust bearing. The larger the compressor wheel the more damage usually occurs. You need to get your BOV to work properly to avodi another turbo failure.

Chris-TU

[turbovanman²]

Look at the shaft bearing,

BTW, the hands are too clean whoever is holding that thrust bearing,

[tryingbe]

Rich,

How do I get rid of the chrrr chrrr chrrr sound? It seems like the BOV is quickly opening and closing (the chrr chrr chrr sound), which would cause turbulence inside the charge pipes. And I can see how that would work a thrust bearing to death.
I started paying more attention to this after this failure, so I began to look at the BOV. I changed the reference point from the vacuum tree I was using (about 6 linear feet of vacuum line) to its own reference point right off of the intake (about 1 linear foot of vacuum line). Then I took all four shims out but the BOV wanted to let air escape at about 12 psi. I put two shims back in and it seems to do a little better, but the chrrr chrrr chrrr sound still remains a little.
What can I do? BTW, the BOV is a new TurboXS RFL.

-Les

Put in another BOV in there, preferably not RFL. 1st gen DSM BOV is great.

[Aries_Turbo]

Put in another BOV in there, preferably not RFL. 1st gen DSM BOV is great.

+1!!

1st gen DSM modded like on the dodge garage will not leak (unless its damaged) and works awesome.

you can even put a solenoid back on the relocated port thats triggered by a full throttle switch so that you get super quick release of the BOV to further reduce thrust bearing wear.

brian

[t3rse]

The problem is that DSM valves aren't cheap anymore....

[tryingbe]

Cheaper than RFL

[turbovanman²]

The problem is that DSM valves aren't cheap anymore....

They still are, just have to keep looking.

[fastasleep]

Les,

As Rich mentioned above, a properly functioning BOV will have one single "Woosh" sound. In the case of the RFL it will be very noticeable. What I heard in your video sounds more like what you hear when there is no BOV. This would explain the failure of your thrust bearing. When your engine is producing boost and you suddenly close the throttle body the boosted air has no where to go. The boost pulse hits the TB butterfly, turns around and heads back at the compressor wheel forcing it in much like as if you pushed your compressor wheel in while it was rotating. The boost pulse then turns around again and heads back up to the throttle body. This cycle repeats itself until the energy is dispersed. All along the compressor wheel/shaft is pushed in and out which is what puts wear on the thrust bearing. The larger the compressor wheel the more damage usually occurs. You need to get your BOV to work properly to avodi another turbo failure.

Chris-TU

Thanks for the info, Chris. I will change it immediately.

[fastasleep]

The problem is that DSM valves aren't cheap anymore....

I have a few lying around. I'll use one!

-Les

[fastasleep]

Anyone want to buy a RFL?

-Les

[tryingbe]

Known non working RFL that killed a turbo? I'll give you $2 for it.