G to Swirl Head Swap

[glhs422]

Hey All,
I'm making the swap from a G-head to a swirl. I just have a few questions (for now) that I haven't found answers to.

#1 - Is any gasket-maker (permatex ultra black, etc) needed between the intake/exhaust manifold and head?

#2 - When bolting the turbo to the exhaust manifold, other than cleaning the flange surface, is there a gasket or gasket material that needs to be applied?

Thanks in advance! More questions will come soon...

[turbovanman²]

Just put the intake/exhaust gasket on and put thread sealer on the exhaust manifold studs.

No gasket for the turbo but if it looks a bit rough, I use Hi temp copper RTV or wheel bearing grease.

Don't forget to change the cal if running a G-head cal.

[glhs422]

Just put the intake/exhaust gasket on and put thread sealer on the exhaust manifold studs.

No gasket for the turbo but if it looks a bit rough, I use Hi temp copper RTV or wheel bearing grease.

Don't forget to change the cal if running a G-head cal.

Thanks!

Are the thread sealers temperature specific, like the permatex red/blue/black?

I currently still have the G head cal, but will get the tune re-done before it sees any boost.

[turbovanman²]

Thanks!

Are the thread sealers temperature specific, like the permatex red/blue/black?

I currently still have the G head cal, but will get the tune re-done before it sees any boost.

Just use Permatex thread sealer, it's white.

[turbo84voyager]

Is it a 2.2 or a 2.5? I cant remember the exact 2.2 g timing table but if its a 2.5 I would not run it with the g-head cal even with no boost. It has a lot more timing out of boost. As it goes into boost timing drops off.

[glhs422]

OK, next question:

The MiniMopar site recommends using mineral spirits and/or naphtha to clean the cylinder head and block mounting surfaces.

Where do I get these cleaners? Is this just local auto parts-store stuff? Would paint thinner work similarly?

[turbo84voyager]

brake clean always worked fine for me

[turbovanman²]

brake clean always worked fine for me

+2, Brake cleaner is all you need,

[glhs422]

Thanks! Just picked up some brake cleaner and thread sealant this afternoon...

Next up, I'm going to be swapping the TBI cam from this old G head:



to this head (stock swirl with backcut valves):



I have a fair amount of engine "theory" knowledge, but very little experience working on internal components like this.

As far as swapping the cam, it's just a matter of swapping the parts to the new head, and then following the correct sequence to tighten the cam, right? I still need to search for the correct sequence and torque specs.

Is there a special lubricant I need to apply before dropping the cam into the head?

Thank you for your patience with my ignorance!

[glhs422]

I found this diagram on the autozone website. It says to use "Mopar gasket maker" on the front and rear camshaft bearing caps.

Is this equivalent to the permatex ultra black gasket maker?

Thanks!

[janus]

Hey Eric,

as already stated you might want to take a look at the timing table in your ECU before running it!

other than that it seems like you're on the right path. if you come up with the correct torque sequence and torque spec for the cam, would you let me know so and post them up here?

i used some random kind of engine assy lube for the cam. i suppose if you give it a good clean and lube it up with oil you should be good to go. oh and don't mix up those head caps but i guess you already know that
good luck

edit: dunno about this rear cam bearing cap but i didn't use any sealant there? could be wrong though and i just got lucky without any leaks

[glhs422]

Here's what I have found so far. The images are from the autozone online repair manual...

[Mopar318]

OK, next question:

The MiniMopar site recommends using mineral spirits and/or naphtha to clean the cylinder head and block mounting surfaces.

Where do I get these cleaners? Is this just local auto parts-store stuff? Would paint thinner work similarly?

You can get Mineral Spirits/Naptha at the Tractor Supply store or any place that sells oil based paint. It does work better than brake clean because it does not evaporate quickly, allowing it to break to greese, and and oil so you can wipe it off.

[135sohc]

I found this diagram on the autozone website. It says to use "Mopar gasket maker" on the front and rear camshaft bearing caps.

Is this equivalent to the permatex ultra black gasket maker?

Thanks!

You need to use anerobic sealant there. regular rtv would be too thick

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Maker_b.htm

[minigts]

Is the anaerobic sealer to keep it from leaking oil on the sides of the head? If so, that would explain a little why I always see oil there. I've never used it on any work I've done on the head, but never hurts to use the anaerobic sealer. It seals/cures without air I believe.

[OmniLuvr]

i think your rear cam cap/cover is different from g-head to swirl, i think swirl is bigger, so if you put the g-head cam cover/cap in the swirl head it will fall out and spew oil everywhere, including your clutch, and thats bad news bears. i haven't done this, but i bought a car that this had happend to

[glhs422]

i think your rear cam cap/cover is different from g-head to swirl, i think swirl is bigger, so if you put the g-head cam cover/cap in the swirl head it will fall out and spew oil everywhere, including your clutch, and thats bad news bears. i haven't done this, but i bought a car that this had happend to

Hmm. I was about to say that the cam is all installed and ready to go. I'll have to take a closer look.

Next questions:

#1 - Which is easier - to bolt up the intake manifold to the head first, or the exhaust manifold first?

#2 - I have MP performance headbolts. Should I pre-lubricate them with motor oil before I install, and will this change my torque specs? Thanks!

[135sohc]

The factory torque specs are based upon lubing the bolt threads with motor oil.

[puppet]

Rear cam cap seal is the same between bathtub and fastburns.

[glhs422]

Is the anaerobic sealer to keep it from leaking oil on the sides of the head? If so, that would explain a little why I always see oil there. I've never used it on any work I've done on the head, but never hurts to use the anaerobic sealer. It seals/cures without air I believe.

Thanks for posting those torque specs!!

Is that 4-step sequence for the headbolts (45-65-65-1/4 turn) all with the engine cold? Or do I need to re-torque the MP head bolts after a hot-cold cycle ?(assuming that I can get this thing to start up )

Thanks again!