I'm trying to figure out my no spark issue.
My Ignition Coil reads 13,600 Ohms on both Secondary and 1.6 Ohms on each Primary. I'm using a cheep multimeter so I don't know what the tolerance is.
I checked the position of the Crank to the cams. Timing should be good.
I'm getting voltage to the Coil, Cranksensor and Cam Sensor. I'm not sure what readings I should get though. All the harnesses are plugged in.
Are you getting fuel? ASD maybe?
Can you tell me what symtoms a bad ASD has. Also which one it is, and if it universal with other makes and models.
The Fuel pumps are kicking on during ignition and I have fuel pressure in the rails. I smell unburnt gas also.
If the fuel pump kicks on when you crank it the ASD is good. Any codes?
I'll grab them tomorrow and post, thanks for the help btw!Originally Posted by Turbo3Iroc
You're welcome.
Do you have a spare coil pack you can swap in?
You may have voltage in but is it coming out? Check for a signal back to the ECU from the crank sensor as this dictates coil firing time. Should also have 5V coming in if its a hall effect style which I believe it is.
Unfortunately no
As the crank rotates I should be able to see a fluctuation in resistance right from the Crankshaft sensor? Would this be a good test if I just check resistance as some one cranks the ignition?
The resistance shouldn't change. All it is is 5V in, ground, and then a signal feed back. The 5v creates a magenetic field charge that is interrupted by the trigger wheel. You should see a change in voltage when cranking on the signal wire. It's been a while since I was in college so I may be wrong on this stuff.
Your right since to create inductance you need power. I'll read the codes and eventually check this when I find someone to crank the starter for me
Just found this- Maybe benificial to someone other than me.
Tech Tip Corner
Testing Inductance Crankshaft Sensors
Alternate Method of Testing Variable Inductance Crankshaft Sensors
While the method of testing variable inductance crankshaft sensors by measuring the resistance of the windings is an accurate method of testing for open or shorted windings, it does not test for a no signal condition due to a broken or weak magnet.
Rather than remove the sensor from the block to test magnetic strength, attach a DVOM set to measure AC voltage across the terminals of the sensor . With a cranking RPM of 100 @ 70 degrees F or greater , experience indicates that most variable inductance crankshaft sensors will generate an AC voltage in the range of .7 to 1< volt. A voltage in this range or higher would generally indicate the sensor magnet is OK.
Distributor mounted magnetic pick-ups can also be tested using this method. Voltage is usually slightly higher.
Read the codes
12
24
22
55
22 is coolant temp sensor and 24 is TPS sensor. The other two indicate the car hasn't been started X number of times since losing power and 55 means it's done with codes. If the coolant temp sensor isn't connected, it won't start, for my car at least. I'd check the line to the temp sensor, ground and signal and then possibly check the fan relay as I THINK it goes to that. I'm going to check my book out, but that would be the only one that wouldn't let the car start up. I'm fairly certain the TPS will allow it to start, but run poopy.
EDIT: Here are a couple of pics regarding the coolant temp sensor. I was wrong. There are no direct grounds, just one wire to the SMEC/LM and a wire that connects to the HEP that is spliced to both HEP signal plugs.
Last edited by minigts; 11-23-2009 at 08:33 PM.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Fan relay works, just throwing code 22 right now. I unplugged the battery and pushed the Throttle position sensor plug back in place. Rechecked timing marks-Dead on.
Things I read
16.8K ohms on the temperture sensor, I had one with a broken terminal reading the same. I'm seeing 5 volts to this sensor.
Looking at your diagram I wonder if I have a broken/bad connected wire somewhere. The Temp sensor is part of the connection with the cranksensor is what I'm getting out of this diagram. The system acted just like this when I forgot to hookup the cranksensor awhile back.22 is coolant temp sensor and 24 is TPS sensor. The other two indicate the car hasn't been started X number of times since losing power and 55 means it's done with codes. If the coolant temp sensor isn't connected, it won't start, for my car at least. I'd check the line to the temp sensor, ground and signal and then possibly check the fan relay as I THINK it goes to that. I'm going to check my book out, but that would be the only one that wouldn't let the car start up. I'm fairly certain the TPS will allow it to start, but run poopy.
EDIT: Here are a couple of pics regarding the coolant temp sensor. I was wrong. There are no direct grounds, just one wire to the SMEC/LM and a wire that connects to the HEP that is spliced to both HEP signal plugs.
I see a 6 prong connector in the diagram, what connector is this?
Last edited by 1qk4dr; 11-23-2009 at 11:30 PM.
What car is this, btw? I have a 93 service manual for the TIII motors. The 6 pin connector is part of the lower sub harness for the distributor, water temp, coolant temp, fan and alternator. If you have a TIII motor or later wiring, these diagrams won't be much help, I don't think. I didn't notice the comment about the crank sensor. Let me know what year and if I can post other diagrams, I will.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
It's a 1991 Dodge Spirit RT
Man you are qk!Here is the link for the pages. Keep in mind this is for a 93, but there shouldn't be TOO much variance from your wiring.
http://www.minigts.com/93fsm/TIII%20Wiring/
I'm uploading the originals so you can zoom in better. Sorry for the washout on the pictures.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
ECT (coolant temp) will still run with a shorted or unplugged sensor. It will see 5V, and think it's very rich, there are hardly any comparative networks back in these days to tell it otherwise. It'll still run with a bad ECT and TPS.
Keep trying to crank it. I know on the dizzy cars (IE 89 Turbo 1) it would throw a No Start code and tell you if it was, say the hall effect pickup.
We need to know what the ECU is reading. Check the signal back from the CKP, crank position sensor. If you have a scan tool that can see these PIDs that'd be awesome.
Things that fire the coil... power, ground, CKP (5v Ref, ground, signal), transistors inside ECU to tell it when and which coil to fire, coil control wire (I think we have batch fire still on the TIII engines? so aren't they similar to waste spark and fire twice every cam revolution, once every crank?)... other things, good contacts... good wires (no arking), clean spark plugs, a great ground off the cylinder head...
Check all of those. If you don't have "spark" then I don't know. :P
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