Reeves' OMNI GLH-R Update!

[PunKid]

congrats on the awesome dyno numbers. Love how the dyno is set up in an old barn complete with dirt floors and holes in the walls lol.

I have to agree, of all the old tools and shop equipment I would love to have in my garage not once did I ever think about installing a Dyno! Hell I use to run one when I was in highschool for a speed shop, I think I just added a new item to search for on craigslist!

[168glhs1986]

Dont laugh, i think this will help

[Reeves]

Here’s a little long overdue update.

Towards the end of the 2013 season, I was having trouble getting the trans into 3rd. At the very last race (and in the finals unfortunately) I could not get the car into 3rd at all. Luckily this was the last race for me anyway (Mopar Southern Classic in Clay City, KY…a VERY good time). I put the car away for the winter and enjoyed the holidays.

Fast forward to now. I pulled the trans, and found that the 3-4 fork is cracked and bent. Also found that my intermediate shaft is shot once again.
I called a spray welding place about repairing the shaft, but they didn’t recommend it since it would be riding on the needles in the bearing…. Off to still find another solution for fixing this issue. For now, I found a spare shaft and ring gear in my shed. Thanks to Warren and Max for the weekend of digging in the trans shed and Max for doing most of the tear downs.

I drilled an extra hole in the oil slinger behind the intermediate shaft bearing. I located the hole right in between the rollers of the bearing. I have no idea if this will help or not, but I’m thinking it may add just a slight bit of squirting/swirling to the needles. I guess we’ll see if this shaft lasts a little longer.

You can also see that I added a 3rd M8 hole to the endplates to help keep the chromemoly plate from deflecting…which I know is happening. I’m looking into getting a “chromemoly” plate made out of something more like tool steel. I need to call up my machinist to see where he’s at on that. Something less prone to flexing…but not so hard that it’ll crack… For now, I’ll see if this 3rd hole helps.

Digging through my stuff I found 2 more 3-4 forks that are actually thicker in the area where my old one cracked. Cool. I put that in.

I also installed the bronze fork pads for my first time. 3 of them on the 1-2 and 3 of them on the 3-4. I also planned to just leave the plastic ones on for 5th…but I went ahead and stuck 2 bronze ones there too…as I was too lazy to go get more plastic ones out of the shed.

Also I put in the crash boxed 3 and 4 gears and the crash boxed 3-4 selector. I’ve been leery of running these for fear that the little synchro teeth that are left are going to break off….but since DJ has been running them with no fears….well…. Hats off to DJ for the help in getting these done.

Also installed a new Quaife diff. Nothing wrong with the old one except a lot of wear and tear. I plan to send the old one back for a rebuild and keep it for the next trans.

Pics

[minigts]

525 with a quaife? This thing should rock.

[DetroitTurbo]

Nice work. Going to do Drag Week again this year?

[cordes]

525 with a quaife? This thing should rock.

You aren't anyone unless you're running a 525. I'm converting the CSX over to one as we speak.

[DetroitTurbo]

You aren't anyone unless you're running a 525. I'm converting the CSX over to one as we speak.

I thought the 525 was the weakest manual trans?

[minigts]

525 with a quaife? This thing should rock.[/SARCASM]

You aren't anyone unless you're running a 525. I'm converting the CSX over to one as we speak. [/SARCASM]

Sorry, edited. I hold the self record for the strongest 525 ever built.

[85boostbox]

^This guy has the chuck Norris 525

[turboshad]

Looking good James. If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

[Ondonti]

No sleeving options for the shaft?

[2.216VTurbo]

No sleeving options for the shaft?

^ Yes, Pat P. had a half dozen or so I shafts sleeved years ago and AFAIK, they are all still in service. That machine shop went out of Biz in the 2008 meltdown but if that guy could do it, surely others can too. Sleeving is the way to go IMO

[Reeves]

Nice work. Going to do Drag Week again this year?

I'm number 30 on the waiting list.....which is really number 80. They only wanted 260 people to sign up, but before they could shut down the registration page, 350 signed up. So they are going to allow the 350 to race, but they are going to let up to 50 drop out before they start using the waiting list. In other words....slim chance.

Looking good James. If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

Thanks! I believe I looked into thicker a while back and determined I'd have to get rid of 5th gear....but, I'll revisit this soon.

No sleeving options for the shaft?

Yes, I'm sure that is a viable solution...I just want to make sure I don't end up like the 523/568 guys with the sleeve coming off. And don't want to TIG glue unless absolutely necessary.

^ Yes, Pat P. had a half dozen or so I shafts sleeved years ago and AFAIK, they are all still in service. That machine shop went out of Biz in the 2008 meltdown but if that guy could do it, surely others can too. Sleeving is the way to go IMO

Yeah....that's probably what is going to happen. But, they good KOYO bearing is no longer available either...

[c2xejk]

I'm number 30 on the waiting list.....which is really number 80. They only wanted 260 people to sign up, but before they could shut down the registration page, 350 signed up. So they are going to allow the 350 to race, but they are going to let up to 50 drop out before they start using the waiting list. In other words....slim chance.

If you are willing to take a bit of gamble, just show up. I think the odds favor you getting in. So far, they have never turned somebody away that has shown up on the day of DW...

If you do, get in line EARLY and be prepared for a long day of waiting. They will be filling the no show slots in the order they go through the tech line... But until they close the tech line they will not know if or how many slots are available.

With no refund being given I think there will be a lot of people that do not show and do not cancel.

[Reaper1]

It looks like the bearing for the I-shaft isn't riding on the entire available surface of the inner race (surface of the shaft). Can you confirm that the entire width of the needles are riding on the shaft?

If it is, I wonder if somehow being able to make it so the bearing is more "choked up" on the shaft would make any difference? It might reduce the amount of bending stress.

[DetroitTurbo]

I'm number 30 on the waiting list.....which is really number 80. They only wanted 260 people to sign up, but before they could shut down the registration page, 350 signed up. So they are going to allow the 350 to race, but they are going to let up to 50 drop out before they start using the waiting list. In other words....slim chance.

Bummer, I really enjoyed watching you kick --- on the live feed last year. I'll just have too keep an eye out for George's 79 Colt. That thing was amazing.

[contraption22]

Glad to see you're back to work on the Omni!

[lengel]

I don't know much about the 555, but maybe the plate could be made thicker in some areas and thinner in other, so you could still retain your 5th gear, and still make it some what stronger .

[Reaper1]

Webbing might be the way to go. Off the top of my head I can't remember if that plate carries a bearing. If not, maybe a carbon fiber plate would work. I know I'm grasping with that one and I don't remember the flexure strength for that material. I wouldn't hesitate to think that the plies would have to be sewn together in the Z direction to help with flexure stiffness and help prevent ply seperation. That isn't exactly cheap if you don't have the capability to do this yourself. Some would say that you would *need* to build a part like this with pre-preg material, but OOACRT with a vacuum bag will work just fine. I can't speculate on cost. Propper design of this part would be critical due to the nature of its job. I gotta finish this post later...got something super important to take care of.

[Shadow]

Looking good James. If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

What about adding some extra bolts to hold the plate closer to the area of deflection? I'd have to open up a couple trannies and look, but it seems to me that the smaller bearing plate on the 568 is thicker and is bolted closer to the bearings.......no?