Reeves' OMNI GLH-R Update!

[csxtra]

Got most of the interior done. Made a super bright high intensity white LED to replace the factory 'fuel pacer' light. That's going to be my new shift light! Gonna test the code for it soon.

Gotta a local car show I want to make on June 5th.....so that is the target date to have it all wrapped up.

So I guess I'd better get off my @$$ and get the new version of your cal ready, huh?

[Reeves]

So I guess I'd better get off my @$$ and get the new version of your cal ready, huh?

It'd be nice!

[Reeves]

Wow I'm, having flashbacks of painting my cage... still a little light headed, LOL... Lookin good Reeves!

They must not have the same stuff in the cans anymore. I didn't even get a buzz

well is you $hit ready to roll?

As close as it's going to get. Didn't get everything done on my list, but I think it's good enough for now.

Got most of the interior done. Made a super bright high intensity white LED to replace the factory 'fuel pacer' light. That's going to be my new shift light! Gonna test the code for it soon.

Need to wire in my NAWZ controller to be on the safer side....it will be easier to do that with the front seats still out.

Gotta a local car show I want to make on June 5th.....so that is the target date to have it all wrapped up.

Shift light is in and hard wire tested. Rob and Warren still working out the bugs with code and I have a new version to try. I just think it's cool to have shift light in the factory shift light hole, and the code in the stock computer!

NAWZ controller is wired up and ready, just in case I decide to spray. New Edelbrock bottle nut was made incorrect and wouldn't seal. Called Summit about it and they sent me a NOS one for free! THAT'S customer service!

Made the car show just fine! It was a lot of fun! Burnouts down the road after with the local police uh, "being busy" as I think they put it! They had an agreement. Very cool. Then it was so nice out, we went the long way home. Racked up maybe 40 to 50 miles on winter work.

Waxxing it tonight, then loading it up tomorrow......as long as my truck gets a clean bill of health from the dealer. Trans has been acting kind of funny.

[contraption22]

Hey dude, do you still need me to bring a bottle nut, or are ya covered with the one from Summit?

[Reeves]

Hey dude, do you still need me to bring a bottle nut, or are ya covered with the one from Summit?

I was afraid I wouldn't get one from Summit in time, but it showed up, and I've already leak tested it

Thanks very much for the offer though!

I got your seat belt bolts.

[contraption22]

I was afraid I wouldn't get one from Summit in time, but it showed up, and I've already leak tested it

Thanks very much for the offer though!

I got your seat belt bolts.

You're welcome, and thanks! I'll have your generator.

[Reeves]

Car has been in the trailer since SDAC, except for when we hauled it to Edgewater for an import race a couple of weeks ago. Then it went back in trailer and stayed there until Monday night. I finally got enough other stuff done that I could start work on the OMNI again…..as PINKS ALL OUT is just around the corner!

Boost leak tested yesterday by putting air in the turbo inlet. Got up to 3 psi and hear air coming out from somewhere around the throttle body. Got a spray bottle with soapy water and find out it’s the TPS. Take off the TPS….no O-RING! I was like, sh*t….this thing has been like this for YEARS! Checked some other throttle bodies, and none of them had an O-ring there. Guess they didn’t have one from the factory? I put on an O-ring and that fixed the leak where the TPS meets the throttle body, but not the TPS itself. Also see bubbles coming from the other side of the throttle shaft as well (throttle cable side). So I removed the throttle body, took it completely apart, cleaned it all up, and added a different TPS sensor and a bigger O-ring to the AIS motor as well. Don’t know how to keep it from leaking a little on both sides of the throttle shaft??? I haven’t re-installed it yet.

I've been having problems off and on hitting 2nd gear. It feels like it's in gear, then dump the clutch and nothing. Then last time out at Edgewater, we noticed it didn’t want to go into 3rd easily. Even just sitting in the pits. Engine running or not running. So, yesterday I removed the shifter cables from the trans end and manually shifted thru the gears. There is definitely something wrong with 3rd gear. So, out comes the trans.

Got it up on the engine stand and tore off the shift selector. I can see that the 2nd gear synchro is pretty beat up. Strained all the oil that came out and found little plastic slivers. Looks like the shift fork for 3rd may be bent and ate up the little plastic pads on the end.

But here’s the other thing I found that I think may have beat up the 2nd gear synchros. Manually moving the 1st/2nd shift fork it goes into 1st gear no problem, but 2nd gear ONLY engages when it is completely up against the stop. If it’s just an 1/8” away, it may or may not be in 2nd gear. Then when you turn the input shaft, it may go the rest of the way in 2nd, or it may pop out. I’m thinking of removing about 1/8” or so of material from the stop side of the fork to more completely engage 2nd gear. Thoughts/Comments? Anyone else seen this before?

Also thought of welding some keystock to the sides of the shift forks to beef them up. Thoughts/Comments? Anyone else done this before?

I’m going to tear the rest of the trans apart tonight, once this thing called “work” gets done for today.

JT….ever get the bronze shift fork pads done for 525/520/555 ??

[glhs0426]

I've been having problems off and on hitting 2nd gear. It feels like it's in gear, then dump the clutch and nothing. Then last time out at Edgewater, we noticed it didn’t want to go into 3rd easily. Even just sitting in the pits. Engine running or not running. So, yesterday I removed the shifter cables from the trans end and manually shifted thru the gears. There is definitely something wrong with 3rd gear. So, out comes the trans.

Got it up on the engine stand and tore off the shift selector. I can see that the 2nd gear synchro is pretty beat up. Strained all the oil that came out and found little plastic slivers. Looks like the shift fork for 3rd may be bent and ate up the little plastic pads on the end.

But here’s the other thing I found that I think may have beat up the 2nd gear synchros. Manually moving the 1st/2nd shift fork it goes into 1st gear no problem, but 2nd gear ONLY engages when it is completely up against the stop. If it’s just an 1/8” away, it may or may not be in 2nd gear. Then when you turn the input shaft, it may go the rest of the way in 2nd, or it may pop out. I’m thinking of removing about 1/8” or so of material from the stop side of the fork to more completely engage 2nd gear. Thoughts/Comments? Anyone else seen this before?

Also thought of welding some keystock to the sides of the shift forks to beef them up. Thoughts/Comments? Anyone else done this before?

I’m going to tear the rest of the trans apart tonight, once this thing called “work” gets done for today.

JT….ever get the bronze shift fork pads done for 525/520/555 ??

You are suggesting making the throw longer for 2nd gear? If so, something similar has been done on T850's to make 3rd engage a little more. This has been done with good results.

[BadAssPerformance]

JT….ever get the bronze shift fork pads done for 525/520/555 ??

Sorry, only the prototypes for the 568...

[Rampage16V]

James have you ground off eve ry other tooth(dog) on the syncro sleev and gear for second and third? Dsms were missing three on three spots around the gear from the factory. Make is go in nomatter what. I did to a friends 440+6 super bee works mint. You can leave the brass rings in still.

[turbovanman²]

Boost leak tested yesterday by putting air in the turbo inlet. Got up to 3 psi and hear air coming out from somewhere around the throttle body. Got a spray bottle with soapy water and find out it’s the TPS. Take off the TPS….no O-RING! I was like, sh*t….this thing has been like this for YEARS! Checked some other throttle bodies, and none of them had an O-ring there. Guess they didn’t have one from the factory? I put on an O-ring and that fixed the leak where the TPS meets the throttle body, but not the TPS itself. Also see bubbles coming from the other side of the throttle shaft as well (throttle cable side). So I removed the throttle body, took it completely apart, cleaned it all up, and added a different TPS sensor and a bigger O-ring to the AIS motor as well. Don’t know how to keep it from leaking a little on both sides of the throttle shaft??? I haven’t re-installed it yet.

That's normal, they leak a bit from the factory. My issue is I have the TPS at the bottom, so the oil drains out and damages the TPS, but I have no room to turn it around,

[Rampage16V]

Way way back there was a service bulletin to leave out the o ring because the vacuum was pulling the dielectric grease through the strands of the wire causing the tps to mal function

[BadAssPerformance]

James have you ground off eve ry other tooth(dog) on the syncro sleev and gear for second and third? Dsms were missing three on three spots around the gear from the factory. Make is go in nomatter what. I did to a friends 440+6 super bee works mint. You can leave the brass rings in still.

I've always wanted a Hemi crash box

[Reeves]

You are suggesting making the throw longer for 2nd gear? If so, something similar has been done on T850's to make 3rd engage a little more. This has been done with good results.

Yes, that is what I was trying to say. The 1st/2nd shift fork at the top where the gear selector goes, has extra meat on it to hit the case when it's in 2nd gear. I'm thinking of removing about 1/8" of this extra meat to let it go a little farther into 2nd.

James have you ground off eve ry other tooth(dog) on the syncro sleev and gear for second and third? Dsms were missing three on three spots around the gear from the factory. Make is go in nomatter what. I did to a friends 440+6 super bee works mint. You can leave the brass rings in still.

I've heard of this, but never done it. Are you saying to remove EVERY OTHER dog from the synchro and the gear? Do you need to do it in a way that the teeth that are now missing line up a certain way? I know the synchro can move about a dog and a half.

That's normal, they leak a bit from the factory. My issue is I have the TPS at the bottom, so the oil drains out and damages the TPS, but I have no room to turn it around,

Why do you have oil in your throttle body?

Way way back there was a service bulletin to leave out the o ring because the vacuum was pulling the dielectric grease through the strands of the wire causing the tps to mal function

Hmmm.....good to know! But I put an O-ring there anyway. I'd rather not lose boost.

I was mostly boost leak testing as I noticed it seems to be spooling slower between gear shifts even at WOT.

Pics of the trans coming soon.

[BadAssPerformance]

I was mostly boost leak testing as I noticed it seems to be spooling slower between gear shifts even at WOT.

With the same turbo or compared to the old turbo? The larger exhaust wheels like to drop boost at the lower RPM but you know this...

[Pat]

James have you ground off eve ry other tooth(dog) on the syncro sleev and gear for second and third? Dsms were missing three on three spots around the gear from the factory. Make is go in nomatter what. I did to a friends 440+6 super bee works mint. You can leave the brass rings in still.

James...ping Genesky. Cliff did this for on a trans for him and from what I recall, Jon loved it.

[Reeves]

Hang with me here, as these pics are horrible. Some of them you can see what I'm talking about.

In the strainer you can see the plastic slivers. These are from the shift fork plastic pads that were just installed a little over a year ago.

The other pictures in this post are of the 1st/2nd shift fork. I'm pointing with a screw driver where the fork hits the case when in 2nd gear. This is where I'm thinking of removing some material from the fork so it will go in farther.

[Reeves]

These pics you can kind of see that the dogs on 2nd gear sh!t the bed. I'm in the process of getting hooked up with another 2nd gear *crosses fingers*.

You may be able to see that the dogs on the 2nd gear synchro also sh!t the bed.

The problem with going into 3rd is that the selector ring that the fork goes in (not sure of the name) is all boogered up. Like it's been seizing up.

[Reeves]

Started digging around my shed, and remembered that my old broke trans was still complete. Very nice that it has a viewing window! But, the 2nd gear dogs are worn on it too. Not near as bad, but they are definitely worn. I'm hoping to find a really good shape gearset.

[BadAssPerformance]

Ouch. Good Luck on the good gearset... hard to find. I have seen "freshly rebuilt" transaxles with fresh brass rings and worn dogs on the gears, this seems to be common practice?