Reeves' OMNI GLH-R Update!

[Ondonti]

I have 2 running transmissions that have the sleeve welded. One with no oil slinger. The other is my daily to work.

I still feel that bearings can be worked out even if its not exactly OEM. Look for different ID and OD options and consider not only sleeving the shaft but sleeving the case or boring it out as needed to use available "good" bearings. Use whatever shaft sleeve will correspond with the bearing you are able to fit into the case. Can't be that hard to lathe whatever you want out of tool steel hallow rod or solid. I am very sure there would be a market for it if somebody wants to be a team player.

I hope to get around to modifying a 543/523/568 style bearing plate sooner then later.

[83scamp]

I have 2 running transmissions that have the sleeve welded. One with no oil slinger. The other is my daily to work.

I still feel that bearings can be worked out even if its not exactly OEM. Look for different ID and OD options and consider not only sleeving the shaft but sleeving the case or boring it out as needed to use available "good" bearings. Use whatever shaft sleeve will correspond with the bearing you are able to fit into the case. Can't be that hard to lathe whatever you want out of tool steel hallow rod or solid. I am very sure there would be a market for it if somebody wants to be a team player.

I hope to get around to modifying a 543/523/568 style bearing plate sooner then later.

If somebody can get me the ID, OD, & thickness of the bearing in question, I can do some digging for a suitable substitute. A big part of my job is taking care of spare parts inventory where I work. I stock several hundred bearings, and have access to all the major manufactures. I should be able to find a cross to the OEM bearing, or something close enough that you guys can make it work. If you could also get a close up picture of the bearing so I can see the manufacture & part number that would be a big help as well. I can't supply them, but I could at least get you guys a part number that can be purchased through a bearing distributor.

[86Shelby]

What about adding some extra bolts to hold the plate closer to the area of deflection? I'd have to open up a couple trannies and look, but it seems to me that the smaller bearing plate on the 568 is thicker and is bolted closer to the bearings.......no?

It has 5 or 6 bolts IIRC holding it in place, and is thicker as well.

Would the bend around the shaft that the 526/68 support plate has, help strenghten the 520/55 plate? I'd like to think that making it thicker would be a possibility but it's been over a year since I've been inside a 555.

[135sohc]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...e15&highlight=

Replacement bearing thread.

[Reaper1]

Looking good James. If you want to stop flex in the bearing plate the only thing you can do is make it thicker. It is a bending problem which is regulated by the materials young's modulus and cross section. Since all steels have basically the same young's modulus, in the 200-210 GPa range, the only thing you can do to stop flex is make it thicker. It is a wide misconception that chromoly is stiffer than steel when in fact it is the same. Chromoly has a higher yield strength which is why it can do the same job with less material. That being said if you made a roll cage out of steel to NHRA spec and one out of 4130 to NHRA spec the steel one would actually be stiffer b/c of the thicker wall.

I don't know much about the 555, but maybe the plate could be made thicker in some areas and thinner in other, so you could still retain your 5th gear, and still make it some what stronger .

What about adding some extra bolts to hold the plate closer to the area of deflection? I'd have to open up a couple trannies and look, but it seems to me that the smaller bearing plate on the 568 is thicker and is bolted closer to the bearings.......no?

Webbing might be the way to go. Off the top of my head I can't remember if that plate carries a bearing. If not, maybe a carbon fiber plate would work. I know I'm grasping with that one and I don't remember the flexure for that material. I wouldn't hesitate to think that the plies would have to be sewn together in the Z direction to help with flexure stiffness and help prevent ply seperation. That isn't exactly cheap if you don't have the capability to do this yourself. Some would say that you would *need* to build a part like this with pre-preg material, but OOACRT with a vacuum bag will work just fine. I can't speculate on cost. Propper design of this part would be critical due to the nature of its job. I gotta finish this post later...got something super important to take care of.

OK, I'm going to finish this post now.
...The reason the design is critical is due to the holes that are in the plate. To get the maximum strength you need the plies oriented correctly so the imparted stresses are properly dispersed around the holes. This may require a unidirectional or harness weave material.

In any case, CF would be a kick a$$ way to really strengthen this part. It may be possible to simply lay down a stack of plies to make a plate and then just cut the holes through it. However, I'd want to test it first. I don't know how that would handle high shock loads.

[Reeves]

I don't know much about the 555, but maybe the plate could be made thicker in some areas and thinner in other, so you could still retain your 5th gear, and still make it some what stronger .

That's a good plan. I'll have to check that out.

If somebody can get me the ID, OD, & thickness of the bearing in question, I can do some digging for a suitable substitute. A big part of my job is taking care of spare parts inventory where I work. I stock several hundred bearings, and have access to all the major manufactures. I should be able to find a cross to the OEM bearing, or something close enough that you guys can make it work. If you could also get a close up picture of the bearing so I can see the manufacture & part number that would be a big help as well. I can't supply them, but I could at least get you guys a part number that can be purchased through a bearing distributor.

57.3mm OD, 35.6mm ID or 1.4016" ID
Koyo Bearing Number RNU070618-6

Would be awesome if you could find one!


Other updates:
Got a set of R4-1 compound front brake pads on the way from Porterfield. Great customer service! Thanks to Steve Menegon for turning me on to them. Hopefully this will give me enough stopping power in the front that the rears won’t lock up unless in an emergency. If not, I have 1 more option for a less aggressive pad in the rear.
New rear skinnies on the way from MH tires. I blew one out at SDAC due to locking up and flat spotting them to the cords. Oops.
Plan to get some plywood to mock up a front splitter. If it turns out good, I got a lead on some plastic to make the real deal out of. Wish Patrick Culkin would call me back 
Other than that, still trying to figure out a way to control boost vs. MPH or GEAR. Built the rear speed sensor and tested it….but never used it for anything yet.

[2.216VTurbo]

Porterfield has a few good folks working there, they are always real helpful. Their shop location is only about 1/2 mile from mine and when the wind blows the wrong direction, it stinks like burning pads all day Don't know how the guys working there can deal with that all day/5 days a week.

[Pat]

Wish Patrick Culkin would call me back 

Yeah, yeah, yeah...

I'll give you a ring tonight. Maybe. :-)

[contraption22]

James ReevesPatrick Culkin

[Pat]

#murdercharger

[Vigo]

If not, I have 1 more option for a less aggressive pad in the rear.

Just get the cheapest autozone pads and grind material off the trailing edge until it doesn't grab too hard. "Brake Tuning".

[mcsvt]

#murdercharger

[Reaper1]

Just get the cheapest autozone pads and grind material off the trailing edge until it doesn't grab too hard. "Brake Tuning".

This is what I did for my brake bias problem. Worked like a champ.

[contraption22]

Sometimes the cheapest pads are semi metallic, while the pricier pads are ceramic. The semi metallic pads actually have better initial grip.

[Reaper1]

I can tell you that the Auto Zone "Valuecraft" pads are almost all organic based. There are some exceptions, but a lot.

[Reeves]

Been kind of a rough year for racing for me. Work has been absolutely crazy, and I keep having parts fail on the car. Changes I made over the winter:
Rebuilt trans. Used crash cut 3 and 4 gears. Installed bronze fork pads in 3 spots on 1-2 and 3-4.
Installed new fresh clutch.
Couple other odds/ends. Using rear wheel speed sensor.

The only races I went to this year:
SDAC - Broke right side axle first pass. Fixed that, then had a lot of dumb mistakes (high boost turned off, then high boost not really that high, then overboost cutout at 19psi, etc) Got all those fixed throughout the day and ran a 10.61.

I then:
Moved rear axle back 1.5"
Made Air Splitter on Front
Made air deflector in rear

Mopar World Finals Norwalk - Broke right side axle. Fixed that, then broke right side axle. Fixed that, then waterpump failed. Temporarily fixed that, then clutch failed. Turned boost down to keep the clutch alive and then water pump failed again.

I then installed mechanical water pump and had clutch rebuilt:

Mopar Southern Classic - No broken parts and ran mid to high 10's in bracket racing. Could only go one day (3 day event) due to work.
Turbopalooza - Saturday racing was cancelled, so I went to Clay City for test and tune yesterday. Right off the trailer with zero changes made since Mopar Southern Classic and went 10.6x at 139. Next pass thought I lost traction in 3rd. 3rd pass clutch slipping badly. 4th pass, clutch confirmed slipping horribly so I quit for the day.

Now my question is.....should I throw in the dual disc clutch that I fixed (broke flywheel) or call it quits for the year. I'm way more leaning towards calling it quits for the year and going back to the drawing board.

[Clay]

I would crack a cold PBR, pull it apart, and call it quits for '14.

after a case of PBR, figure out what to do for '15!

[2.216VTurbo]

Was this an Aasco steel flywheel that broke? same company that made my DD? I cant remember now

[turbovanman²]

Install the clutch and finish off the year, then you have the winter to redo it or not.

[Pat]

Spend less time goofing around on facebook with Mike Marra, Kaley Cuoco and Patrick Culkin and you'd be able to get a clutch in it for Cecil.