Here is my documentation on the installation of the Reeves/Mcleod dual disc clutch for other do-it-yourselfers. Mcleod and me have been talking about a possible group buy or possible production of the units if there is any interest.
Mcleod Dual Disc Clutch Documentation:
Dual 8” discs, 2200lb plate
Thickness issues:
New dual disc clutch from McLeod needed .305” more clearance as received with .330” thick ceramic clutch plates to fit in the trans. This does not include the thickness of the dust shields, which will give us a tad of buffer (.040”). This is AFTER removing the studs that came with the clutch, and using 3/8”-16 FHCS grade 8 bolts from Fastenal and using a 82* countersink on the new pressure plate.
As the clutch was received from Mcleod, it was 2.900” from crank to fingers according to Mcleod. I did not verify this measurement.
Ordered new .250” iron discs to save more room on 8/8/11.
.330” (x2) = .660” for the ceramic discs
.250” (x2) = .500” for the iron discs
So with new iron discs, we save .160”. This leaves us with 0.145” to make up still.
I plan to take 0.145” off the face of the modified stock flywheel. Need to measure how much material that will leave from the back of the flywheel (where relief cut).
Update:
Remeasured and refitted again and only needed 0.110” removed from the face of the flywheel.
Flywheel Mods:
Shaved .110” from the face of the flywheel. This also required to counterbore the flywheel mounting holes .110” deep and .930” O.D. Next time I will do .140” deep and .950” O.D. as the rivets on the first disc are pretty close to the mounting bolt heads and you could use a tad more room for your socket to fit on the bolts. After machining, I had the flywheel resurfaced to be sure it was perfectly flat.
After counterboring the mounting holes, you must either grind your stock flywheel bolts a tad shorter, or use flexplate mounting bolts (which is what I did), otherwise, they hit the #5 main cap.
Flexplate:
Only mod to the flexplate itself was the countersinking of the mounting holes for flat head cap screw bolts.
Clutch discs:
As stated above, the ceramic discs were too thick to fit without major modding. Went with the iron discs.
Since the iron discs are thinner, I had to remove some of the shims that came with the clutch for wear adjustment. It came with 15 shims from Mcleod. After installing the new thinner iron discs, I only needed 8 shims (.170”). I removed 7 shims (.160”). This also made installation easier, as the stack up of 15 shims was kind of hard to hold.
The wear adjustment is very nice, as you can lay a flat edge across the outer face of the pressure plate when it is all installed, and remove or add shims to make the fingers flush with the flat edge.
Clutch Arm Modifications:
Measuring the stock throw of the clutch cable, I came up with 3.5” at full rest and 2.25” full stroke. That is 1.25” actual cable throw.
Measuring end of stock arm (at the little tab on the cable retainer) I got 3.5” at full rest and 1.75” at full stroke. That equals 1.75” actual arm throw.
New clutch requires minimum of .250” throw at throw out bearing. Lengthening the stock clutch arm 1.25” and giving it 1.25” throw seems to release the discs nicely. Have not measured actual throw of throw out bearing yet.
Ended up extending the clutch arm 1.5” total.
Weights:
Ceramic discs = 4lb 13.8oz together
Iron discs = 4lb 4.8oz together
Shaved Flywheel after machining = 13lb 5.4oz
Shaved Flywheel after machining and grinding flat = 13lb 4.2oz
Floater Flywheel = 2lb 6.0oz
Aluminum Pressure Plate = 7lb 1.6oz
Dual Disc Clutch Complete (with bolts, spacers, shims) = 27lb 12.6oz
Dual Disc Clutch Complete after grinding flywheel flat = 27lb 11.0oz
For reference, my Spec DD pressure plate and Rev-Lock disc and mounting bolts = 16lb 3.4oz
Rev-Lock disc = 3lb 13.0oz
My old flywheel = 17lbs 15.4oz
My old clutch setup complete with bolts = 34lbs 2.4oz