damn sorry i didn't look into it too far before i posted
sorry man
damn sorry i didn't look into it too far before i posted
sorry man
No worries! I heard of some guys using some 80's camaro/firebird window scrapers and cutting them to fit... i might order some of them and try this out. atleast there's a huge aftermarket for them!Originally Posted by Johnmesich
Now that you're going to have a fresh new car in the spring, you feel like driving it to MD? Oh, and if you get your engine in to Jesse soon he could have it done for you before the racing rush starts. Once that starts things will take longer.
When is SDAC? Yeah i'll give Jesse a call here soon... i have to start gathering some parts for the rebuild like some .020" Wiseco pistons and possibly some H-beam rods. I'd definitely go if i get the rebuilt motor in the car, and i would really have to think about going with this current motor... i trust it, but that long of a distance i dont know. Remember one of the cylinder walls in this motor?
Today i got my T-top seals and felting,. I got them from Brent (shelbymopar89) on this forum and he was great to deal with,
. I'm just waiting on my door moldings and headliner locking moldings
Ya, I don't know if I would trust that to make the drive. SDAC is in late June so you have a bit of time but it always goes fast. I have some T2 rods with ARP hardware I was starting to debeam. They are bushed for .927 pins right now so would need to be rebushed if you go with .901s. If you are interested I'm sure we could work something out. I also have 3 .020 Wiseco pistons
Ya, I don't know if I would trust that to make the drive. SDAC is in late June so you have a bit of time but it always goes fast. I have some T2 rods with ARP hardware I was starting to debeam. They are bushed for .927 pins right now so would need to be rebushed if you go with .901s. If you are interested I'm sure we could work something out. I also have 3 .020 Wiseco pistons
I'll try my best to get it finished by then... the body should be done by march, so that gives me three months to get her reliable, even tho i put about 12,000 trouble free HARD kilometers on this motor last summer and it's showing no sign of oil loss/burning,I think it's one of those motors that just won't die! I'd be interested in those rods, but i think those pistons wont work for me... your motor was a 2.5L right? I'm building the original 2.2L which i plan on doing the S60 kit and keeping it all look stock under the hood... which reminds me, if anybody coming across this thread has a S60 intercooler for sale please let me know.
Tonight i cut the rear window out... what a PITA! This weekend i plan on finishing up the bodywork on the rear section (quarters, hatch and the 6" of roof) I also bought a new SATA 3000RP paint gun which will be getting used to paint this car,
nice work man!
where is the switch for the rear wiper on the 89?
Wow very nice plans.
I bet that will be the ----.
I have 2 super 60 set ups OEM still in the box. I bought them from an old man hoarding parts for his S car. If I come across an extra indy cooler I will let you know.
It's in the center console beside the seat controls (for daytona's equipped with the enthusiast seats of course)
That would be great! Thanks,
This is why these 80's and 90's cars need to be stripped to bare metal... i took a razor blade over the paint and it came right off no problem.
I started stripping it tonight and tomorrow im going to orbital it and do some bodywork where it needs it and then put it in primer... my goal it to finish the bodywork this weekend, but we'll see how it goes.
Ya the paint is really thin. Its starting to come off my driverside quarter.
I need to do something like this someday but man you are putting a lot of work, money and time into this car. Its gonna look AWESOME!
Yeah the paint is thin, but the factory sealer (the reason why the paint comes off our cars) is pretty thick and it must be removed completely or you'll have adheason problems again... Maybe not right away, but down the road. I don't know what that crap is, but too me it almost seams like its a laquar base (no hardner) sealer.
Thanks again for the compliment,
i dont think ill ever get my car painted thenYeah the paint is thin, but the factory sealer (the reason why the paint comes off our cars) is pretty thick and it must be removed completely or you'll have adheason problems again... Maybe not right away, but down the road. I don't know what that crap is, but too me it almost seams like its a laquar base (no hardner) sealer.
Thanks again for the compliment,
the progress is looking great!
i dont think ill ever get my car painted then
the progress is looking great!
If you do all the hard work yourself you are going to save thousands! You also don't have to use expensive brand materials... you can use Duponts lower line of paint products which is called Nason. (Omni for PPG) since your car is white the lower line basecoat would not make a difference. I used Chroma-premier because my car is metalic and the more expensive paint has more pigment and depth. a good example.. a gallon of Daytona blue in Chroma-premier was $500 for just the base and another $100 for reducer. I bet a gallon of white basecoat in Nason with the reducer would be around $150. Same goes for clear... you can pick up some 4:1 chroma-clear (duponts mid line) for about $250 with the hardener. I wouldnt use Nason clear, but thats my opinion. I got the Chroma-premier clear as well which was close to $600 for a gallon. (3:2:10%) Things start adding up tho when you start getting primer, masking paper, filler, tape, sealer ect... again you can get cheaper materials. DON'T EVER BUY LACQUER PRIMER!!! unless you want your paint job falling off
I spent most of the day doing the drivers quarter. Tonight im going to strip the passenger side quarter and begin the bodywork.
Orbitaled in 180 grit.
Bodywork done.
In primer.
Thank you very much for all the info that really helps
made it seem a lot more reasonable to do it
and is the 4k with or without all the ttop trim?
I will add up my receipts tomorrow and see... i was coming up with this estimate without the T-top trim.
I just stripped the passenger quarter panel tonight... tomorrow i will put some filler on it where it needs it and i will also block out the drivers quarter and roof and put in in primer for the 2nd time and i will see if it needs a 3rd blocking and primering.
Last edited by Turbo_Rampage; 02-07-2010 at 03:01 AM.
WOW thats a hella amount of money. But it will look sick when it is finished.
I am gonna have a buddy just do a decent respray for now. Nothing fully stripped or anything as the car is just a driver. I have a charger that needs a full paint job first
Even tho its a daily driver (like mine will be in the summer) i would still recommend to strip the car... even pull the car apart yourself and strip it to bare metal and put it in a DTM sealer then bring it to your buddy... that way all the money you put into it in paint won't fall off again over the years.
I just added up my receipts from the autobody supplies shop... $3484.36 and i know i've got a couple more receipts laying around that i havent added up. This is still alot cheaper then any bodyshop would do it for and i guarantee i wouldn't get the car done with these quality materials... alteast not without spending a huge amount of money.
Got the passenger side quarter finished up tonight and in the first primering. It was pretty bad around the gas cap area, but almost all cars seem to be... i put a skim coat of filler around the gas cap opening and blocked it out, so it's nice and straight.
My goal this week is to finish up the passenger quarter and paint the door and hatch jams.. i also have to primer the hatch. Once this is done i can start assembling the car... the hood, doors, tail section, front nose and then comes the fun task of wetsanding the car for paint.
Lol then you can do mine =)
LMAO looking good. Can't wait to see it complete
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