Al wheels can be hit with a wire wheel to make them like new. Steel wheels are a different story. I've done thousands of each.Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
Al wheels can be hit with a wire wheel to make them like new. Steel wheels are a different story. I've done thousands of each.
ive been running steel wheels on my beaters in NY for years (salt heaven.... 15 min from a mine) and have cleaned rust off of them multiple times between sets of tires.
what has happened to the ones that you deem to be unusable? just curious.
Brian
Hmm, well I had a leak around the bead which, according to the tech, took at least two sanding discs to try and get clean. They resorted to sealing the bead with some rubber sealant. Other than that and a lot of surface rust, the rims seem structurally sound. I have been meaning to clean up the rims with a wire wheel and POR-15 then paint them for years, just never got around to it...
Unfortunately, the right rear tire still leaked down. I doubt the rim will hold air anymore. I'll probably pick up a replacement junkyard rim tomorrow for $25 and see about getting the tire switched over.
Still having trouble starting it, but I think I have to "precision adjust" my crank sensor with a crowbar or hammer. Once I get a consistent clean RPM signal into the MS, it should fire up just fine. Still have the old tune and configuration loaded, so I should be starting from a pretty good spot. Then I can upgrade to the latest 3.3.1 MS-Extra code
Does your MS have a common ground with your sensors?
I wanted to know if you still had a piece of Lucy to measure the thickness of the sheet metal in the roof or 1/4 panel for sound dampening reasons.
I have a rim that leaks like yours but holes air for a week or 2 or whenever I remember it doesn't hold air. Junkyards never have aluminum rims these days so finding another set of our OEM rims is impossible. Wire wheeling some OEM rims I don't like also doesn't seem to be an enticing idea to me since I don't have tire irons or want to mess with car tires.
Kinda guessing that blockoff plate would fit a 12 valve though I have had interest in using the AEM sensor up there at some point. You only have a crank signal right now right? I am not sure if all stuff is really justified just to run sequential injection.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I upgraded and corrected some grounding issues when I rewired the MS this time around. Main sensors used MS dedicated grounds, and MS is grounded to the battery. Gauges are also grounded to the battery on a combined ground. I have resolved the gauge issues as well, so everything should be good to go.
I have steel wheels, so those are plentiful in the junkyard. As long as the one I get isn't as rusty as my current one I should be OK. The Alloys I have are 17x7's, but I can't quite justify $500 for tires on those...yet
Which blockoff are you referring to? I don't see a reason ATM to go sequential injection either. I'm using the majority of the I/O's on my MSII and don't want to shell out for an MSIII/MSX upgrade. It runs just fine on alternating banks with 6 shots, so no real worries there.
Update: got the motor running finally. was chasing my tail on a no RPM problem, but it turned out to be the $0.10 roll pin indexing the crank pulley to the crank that sheared. Once I got that sorted, it ran good for a while then stalled and wouldn't restart. That issue was fuel not getting to the pump pickup, which took me 3 days to figure out. 3 gallons later and everything is running well again.
I think my coolant sensor is dying as it isn't reading correctly (it is reading low). Should be an easy fix, considering I put this sensor in back in '06 when I swapped the motor originally. But with the rear tire issue fixed, I am now down to reassembling the interior, tracking down an oil leak, and filling and bleeding the brakes. then it's time for the first test drive in a few years!
Update - Lucy is now prowling the streets again! Over the weekend I returned to Ohio and got the last touches done for Lucy to be put back on the road. This was mainly an alignment (Firestone Lifetime Alignment FTW
We also ran into issues on the 900 mile drive from Ohio back to Tulsa. The fuel gauge is not accurate (I suspect a wiring/resistance issue) and we ran out of fuel once. Luckily a good Samaritan stopped and I was able to get a ride to pick up a couple gallons of fuel to limp Lucy to the gas station a couple miles away. Lucy is not making anywhere near the power she did in the previous iteration, and her fuel mileage is an astonishingly low 19 to 20 MPG. I believe I have a fuel supply issue as she was running lean and a good 15* to 25* hotter than usual. I used to never see coolant temps over 200*, but we were pushing 220* cruising at 70 on the highway. First thing to check I think, will be the fuel filter. Hopefully it is just a clogged up element and not a bad fuel pump or other issues.
Well, I bypassed the Jegs filter I had installed and it did fix a good bit of the fuel starvation issue. Still not back to 100% of pre-swap power, but it at least drives a heck of a lot better. I believe the wbo2 and the TPS on the 65mm throttle are now what are giving me issues. the TPS keeps changing so my accel enrich is all over the place and the o2 keeps conking out on me, requiring a reset to start working again.
TPS accel worked for me previously but now on this new firmware I can't use it. Had to go to MAP. My car felt gutless with the TPS enrichment wacking out.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
So...I figured out one reason why I haven't had full power on Lucy....Some idiot forgot to properly secure the throttle cable! The sheath had pulled toward the throttle enough that matting the petal only netted about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle angle. I think I will be building a proper bracket this time instead of the pseudo-bracket clamp thing I used on Lucy 1 (or the zip-ties that are currently holding it in place). It still feels like I am not running right above 5000rpm, but once I get the throttle fixed, fuel filter replaced, fuel pressure verified and o2 sensor rectified, I should be able to see what's truly going on with the AFRs.
Ondonti - I may end up going to MAP accel or EAE as I seem to be having similar TPS trouble. We shall see what upgrading from 3.2.1 to 3.3.2 does.
Once tuned, you will like EAE. It transitions fueling much smoother than the accel enrichment...
So I got a little more work done on Lucy today. I made up and installed a throttle bracket to keep the throttle from moving around on me. I also located the major exhaust leak (about 1" from the o2 sensor). The gasket between the collector an the catalytic converter was shot and 2 of 3 mounting bolts were MIA. replaced the gasket and got new bolts with lock washers to seal up the exhaust system. I still have backfires occasionally going between deaccel and tipin, but hopefully with the leak fixed, I can see if the AFRs were reading off and correct the issue. I suspect a possible over-fuel issue due to the exhaust leak skewing the sensor readings. I also STILL haven't upgraded to the latest MS-II/E code, yet. That is definitely on the list due to the massive number of refinements from my current code variant (3.2.1) to the current 3.3.2 or so.
I haven't had time to diagnose the A/C leak, (I suspect the ONE hose-clamp connection in the system slipped due to high pressure) but I did replace the one valve core that was a potential leak. Hopefully I can get the system vacuumed down and re-filled soon (A/C was nice to have in 90*+ weather!)
Well, another wrench in the works. Lost both the power steering and alternator belts, resulting in the timing belt jumping time again. I haven't been able to test to ensure valves aren't bent, but I'm hopeful. The crank pulley is only 2 teeth off, which is 30 crank degrees. The serpentine belts tore up the lower timing cover so I have to get a replacement. Upon dis-assembly, it appears my tensioner is shot as well as it had loose play in it. Additionally, the roll pin indexing the crank pulley to the crank sheered and had to be drilled out again. I'm also looking at replacing the crank sprocket as I have drilled out that roll pin twice before and it is showing signs of wear from the re-drilling. I just have to scrounge up the funds for a timing belt kit...
In other news, the issue with the A/C going out was the pressure relief valve blowing on the compressor (exceeding 500psi). It looks like the rest of the system is OK, but I think the Dodge high pressure switch is not functioning. I am going to see if I can adjust the wiring to tie the multi-switch on the compressor into the circuit instead to stave off an over-pressure situation again.
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