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Thread: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

  1. #1
    Garrett booster
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    Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    I have a 1987 GLHS (#0896), that I will be re-assembling soon. I have the trans out(installing the a555), the cylinder head off(ported it and the intake and exhaust mannys), Installed the Lambros Race Engineering 500 cam, Got a Front Mount intercooler from FM(it's HUGE), with all aluminum, mandrel bent, 2 1/2" plumbing, Installing the 58mm TB, have +20's, MSD fuel rail with AFPR, FM Enforcer stage 1 turbo, Upgraded wastegate actuator can, Under drive pulley, MP stage II LM, TU cut out eliminator, Turbo Xcess BOV(from FM), A/C delete bracket(A/C gone obviously), etc... Are there any other parts I may need? Or are there any parts that you see as necessary at this point with what I already have?
    Now, I'm getting myself a good vacuum block. Does anyone have any suggestions on exactly how I should route my vacuum lines? I mean, Is there any particular way that better suits the vehicle for performance(other than following the factory diagrams)?
    Also, what fuel pressure should I run? What timing is best?
    Are these questions that can be answered from a distance? Or would one have to be there to actually set the tune? Are they a "hit and miss", "Trial and error" type of deal?
    Basically, I'm looking for suggestions from those of you who have "souped up" several of the turbo dodges and have input for me to follow that will heed positive results in the performance of my car.
    MOSTLY, vacuum suggestions or diagrams(factory or custom).
    I thank you all for your help in advance,
    Donnie
    signsoflife22@comcast.net

  2. #2
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    49psi w/ the vacuum hooked to the fpr, and the MP Stage II cal is set to run on 12 degrees base timing. I think the 58mm TB is probably overkill for that setup also, 52mm would be plenty unless you have a seriously modded and ported intake. How much boost are you planning to run? The Stage II cal is only set for 14.7 psi if it's stock.

  3. #3
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor Turbo_Rampage's Avatar
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    The GLHS stage 2 Mopar performance LM doesn't have an overboost cutout on it... atleast mine doesn't. I'm running 16+psi in my Rampage on this LM and i've never hit overboost cutout.

  4. #4
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    Get a 3" swingvalve and a MBC. You'll make tons of power. The rest of those mods seem like overkill for the stock turbo.

    MP stage 2 has a long delay on the cutout. I run mine at 16-17 pounds with no cutout. I've had spikes to 25 psi with no cutout as well. Pistons cut out though.

    +20s might be a little light for your setup if you get a lot of air moving. The MP stage2 can run a fairly large injector. Having broken 2 pistons in my GLHS I would recomend getting a custom cal. MP Stage 2 runs lots of timing and very little fuel at part throttle.

    My car with just a 3" swingvalve and exhaust, bigger injectors and a MBC will spin the tires on a roll in 3rd very easily. Mark J's (Marcus86GLHS) car makes 230 whp and runs 12 secs in the 1/4 mile with a similar setup and a custom cal.

  5. #5

    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    ^+1 on what Chad is recommending.

    on your vacuum line questions: stick w/ the basic stock routing (refer to the vacuum decal underhood or the factory shop manuals). use small tubing, 5/32" is ideal. the shorter the runs the better. since you are running a MBC, you do not need to plumb the vacuum system for the wastegate solenoid, just be sure the electrical connector for that solenoid is plugged in. be sure to use ny-ties on at least the fuel pressure regulator line and the wastegate actuator line, but best is to secure all the vacuum lines w/ ny-ties.

    and w/ a MBC and cut-out eliminator it is almost mandatory to have a wideband a/f gage along w/ a boost gage.

  6. #6
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    Thanks for all of your suggestions people. I WILL be using all of them. I have yet to get the MBC but I do have the cut out elim. I'm bidding on one on e-bay as we speak. So, I'll have it soon enough.
    I'm stepping up the injectors too. I'm getting a set of 550cc(52lb/hr), ones from another member. I know they're a bit big but, I can control that. I'd rather be rich than lean.
    Not plumbing the wastegate solenoid was an excellent tip/ Thanks. Didn't know that at all.
    Thanks to all of you

  7. #7
    TIIFIIIWII Turbo Mopar Staff DodgeZ's Avatar
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    don't cut your floor up installing a cable shifter
    2022 Viper runs 9s

  8. #8
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    Quote Originally Posted by DodgeZ View Post
    don't cut your floor up installing a cable shifter
    Lol I gotta +1 that I'm sticking with the rods on my GLHS.

  9. #9
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    You don't really need a cutout eliminator with the MP Stage 2 computer. You'd have to run it over 15 psi for over 10 seconds to get a cutout.

  10. #10
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    Thanks again. And, I HAVE TO cut the proper holes in the floor for the cable shifter. if you've ever compared the two shifters(cable and rod), you'd see that the cable shifter set up is MUCH-MUCH more stable and consistent. Quicker. Smoother. Tighter. Just an all around better set-up than the rods.
    And if done right, the holes in the floor won't affect the car at all. I've cut them with a 1 1/2" hole saw and primed and painted the bear metal areas. Also, I'll be using rubber bushings in the holes as well. So, there will be NO problems there.
    Thanks again,
    Donnie

  11. #11
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: Re-Assembling the GLHS soon, Need pointers...

    If done right, the rods are much tighter and have a more solid feel IMO. Only downside to rods is more vibration transmission to the body if you use heim joints (not so much if you use bushings still) and if your mounts wear/break it'll rock the shifter around and cause missed shifts and such. But you won't drive around on broken mounts, will you?

    But each to their own. It's your car, so set it up w/ what you'll be comfortable driving with. Cables work good too, and you pretty much have to have them if you use a 523/568. I just prefer the feel of a solid mechanical linkage, than the isolated cable linkage. More feedback from the car, if you will.

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