It was above freezing today and I washed the car and put an alternator belt on it.
Good stuff.
Im sure vigo bought another car, tore it apart, and put the motor in another car by the time I got my car charged up and running this afternoon LMAO
It was above freezing today and I washed the car and put an alternator belt on it.
Good stuff.
Im sure vigo bought another car, tore it apart, and put the motor in another car by the time I got my car charged up and running this afternoon LMAO
seeing these cars again makes me wish you dumped the pos new yorker for the P body.
23mpg, is that while towing or not? 23 is about what I do when towing my P body with my AA body.
+1 on the weather and no garage all I can do is look at my cars collect parts and wash the salt off and keep the oil changed
Bah!! Ive parted and dumped 3 shadows so far, just dont like the body style or interior (other than 87csx exterior).seeing these cars again makes me wish you dumped the pos new yorker for the P body.
new yorker got da funk.. and i want the funk...
NOPE! Stupid dynasty gets 23 mpg ... HIGHWAY, EMPTY, CRUISING.. 23. Lame. It was fine when i first got it and gas was 1.25 and i drove around just for fun, but now it sucks for a daily driver.23mpg, is that while towing or not? 23 is about what I do when towing my P body with my AA body.
LUCKILY.. i just got the spirit put together last night and drove it! W00000t!
My friend Derrick (who has a new yorker project.. hehe) came over to help me get the steering coupler back together, and by that time almost everything else was already done..
I did run into a problem running the 88 2.2 shelbyZ computer.. no spark! Did all the usual tests and didnt find a problem, so decided to try the stock 2.5 computer before giving up for the night, and it fired up! I dont know why the 2.2 computer didnt work, i suppose the pinouts may actually be different..
Anywho, the clutch and shifting are super smooth, and the motor feels totally different going through the rev range than the 2.5s i own. Much less peaky, but also much less dramatic.. On ~5psi it is a SLOW car. The aries on 5psi runs low 15s. Obviously the Aries has a lot going for it, though. The spirit is heavy, down on displacement, and the fueling is WAY off.
Here's the big problem... im running a 2.2 on a stock cal 2.5 computer with +20s... meaning its probably injecting almost 40% too much fuel. It pretty much wont run unless i pull full vacuum on the FPR with a vacuum pump.
So, i need a cal like crazy!!! But the car runs/drives, and nicely!
I have a handful of pics but i left the camera with the car. Ill put em up later.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I have an 5 speed 3.0 ecu that won't ground the coil. Pisses me off. I think it got damaged during a shortage of the battery years ago. At one point I wished I could fix it but not really in these megasquirting days.
Maybe that ecu has a similar problem? no idea what actually failed on mine. Something in the board must be dead.
I think that was the case with this one, too. As far as i know the 88 and 89 pinouts are the same, so i dont see why it wouldnt have worked other than the computer itself being bad. Obviously my harness is fine, i checked resistance from the 60pin connector to the coil and it was fine, put in the 2.5 computer and got spark right away.
Brian is helping me out with a chip for this bad boy. I just need to buy a socket and socket my board before it gets here
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Here's some pics:
My new H-pattern shifter gate
Hooray 5spd swap.
Yep thats a stock t1 bov. Its held up to cutout in the past so i figure its good enough for now.
Done!
Last edited by Vigo; 01-22-2010 at 10:59 PM.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Looks really nice, love the rims...do you always hold the door open with a crank pulley
[FONT="Arial Black"]Paul[/FONT] [B][SIZE="1"]US ARMY INFANTRY VETERAN[/B] 1995 Dodge Stealth R/T White DOHC 5 speed 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Red DOHC 5 speed 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Blue TI 5 speed (2) 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Red TI auto 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T, Red (project) 1989 Shelby CSX-VNT #382 1989 Dodge Shadow ES, White TI auto 1987 Daytona Shelby Z, White TII 1987 Chrysler T&C wagon, Tan TII auto 1985 Dodge Lancer ES, Bronze TI auto 1982 Wife, White[/SIZE] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Only when the front end is jacked up and the thing wont stay open while im on my back cursing at pedals under the dashboard...
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Liking the swiss cheese wheels.
looks cool that sunshine looks awesome whats the temp
70-80F during the day, 40s at night lately. Getting another front later next week so it might be down into 20s next weekend, so ill be home studying instead of working on the spirit. Which is probably for the best.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Well, a decision has been made to go with a stock 2.2 t2 cal and a converted log-motor FPR (converted to adjustable base) to get this thing driveable.
The upside of this is that i have most of what i need to do this.. other than some jb weld and a 28pin socket, which may run me all of $10 total!
MAYBE i can force myself to do both this saturday!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Well, i surprised myself and built the AFPR today out of an old log-motor FPR. In fact, i counted and i have at least 3 more of these things sitting around if i feel like repeating this.
Step 1: Cut hole in top.
Why does the hole look like crap? Because its hard to use hole saws that weren't designed for metal when you also dont have a vice. Yep.... I also cut the little vacuum barb piece off.
Harbor Freight holesaw put to good use..
Then i build this complicated contraption which is a shock absorber bushing washer, a nut welded to that, and smaller nut welded to that nut, with a bolt through it.
Harbor Freight welder getting some good use..
This is the whole thing compressed back together with a Harbor Freight $2 clamp in preparation for welding. What i didnt take pictures of, is that i welded one of those nuts with the washer built on to the end of the bolt on the inside as a spring seat. I also trimmed the spring by a relatively small amount.
Here i added the 2nd Harbor Freight $2 welding clamparoo and the ground..
Then i did welding! Yeah, i skipped some steps with the pics but here it is after some welding and grinding, and with the hole i drilled for the relocated pressure reference barb.
Then i welded that, and voila!!
Here's a pic of it installed and working.. because this was my first attempt i guess i was playing it safe by not trimming the spring by very much, so the lowest it will go with vacuum applied is 35psi. Luckily, i figure thats right in the ballpark of what i need! It definitely made the car run better, but its still got funky driveability issues that im thinking the 2.2 cal will fix.
I grabbed that and threw it in the trunk of my dynasty so hopefully i can get around to starting on that this week sometime.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Ah man, that's perfect...junkyard tech at it's finest
Great job!
[FONT="Arial Black"]Paul[/FONT] [B][SIZE="1"]US ARMY INFANTRY VETERAN[/B] 1995 Dodge Stealth R/T White DOHC 5 speed 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Red DOHC 5 speed 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Blue TI 5 speed (2) 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Red TI auto 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T, Red (project) 1989 Shelby CSX-VNT #382 1989 Dodge Shadow ES, White TI auto 1987 Daytona Shelby Z, White TII 1987 Chrysler T&C wagon, Tan TII auto 1985 Dodge Lancer ES, Bronze TI auto 1982 Wife, White[/SIZE] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
were you careful with keeping it cool after each tack? you can ruin the diaphragm inside if it gets too hot? you might want to give it a skim coat of JB weld to seal any potential leaks.
35 psi? the return line might be too restrictive?
looks good though.
brian
Yeh i think it took me about 20 minutes just to weld the washer part to the body. My longest single weld on that part was probably less than 1 cm.were you careful with keeping it cool after each tack
I checked the whole thing with my vacuum bleeder and the only place it leaks a little bit is through the threads of the bolt/nut. I didnt document it in pics but what i did was do tack welds all the way around and then grind the welds back down flush with the body to find all the little holes and tack them over and over til it was ground smooth continuous metal all the way around.
As far as the 35 psi, i didnt take very much length off the spring at all, so it doesnt go much lower than stock.. next time i will grind more off the spring so i have a wider range of adjustment.
If im getting a +20s 2.2 cal, ill just reuse this FPR on my 3.0 swap so i can put t2 injectors in it
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
According to Phatfoto I think it was, he had 27lb in a 3.0 and it coped so you might not really need it.Originally Posted by Vigo
If im getting a +20s 2.2 cal, ill just reuse this FPR on my 3.0 swap so i can put t2 injectors in it
I might be inspired to mod an FPR for my escort though. I think I've got a 180HP potential motor running on 120HP worth of fuel.
Well, it may cope once it goes into closed loop but since i doubt the 3.0 will be boosted right away, ill probably lower the pressure at first to get as close as i can to stock driveability.
Also, im not sure if, for example you ran 27s on stock everything, that it wouldnt still way overfuel on throttle tip-in enrichment, which is KILLING the driveability of the spirit as it sits.. Like i said, i dont know, but id love to have someone tell me if thats true
And Ed Kelly dyno'd his turbo 3.0 on 26s and was maxing em out (100% duty cycle, 65+psi BASE pressure) at less than 250whp. I dunno what im really looking for out of an m90 3.0, probably less than that, but i dont have a good reason NOT to put 32s in, especially if it lets me run a lower base pressure and keep a stock turbo pump (save me a little $$ that way).
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
You do also have to remember that the stock fuel pressure was upped after the first year ('87) on the 3.0 due to issues with fuel boiling in the rails, nice and snug between the banks as they are. So going more than a little lower might not help driveability overall.
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