id get the toys mike cause you can simulate the racegas mode with an inexpensive alky injection setup for even more power. you can get denatured alky at walmart if need be.
Brian
id get the toys mike cause you can simulate the racegas mode with an inexpensive alky injection setup for even more power. you can get denatured alky at walmart if need be.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
It seems like they should trap alot higher than that. I have ran a 13.68 on my stock 04 and I trap anywhere from 99-104mph. The outside air temp really plays alot on my cars trap speed.
One of the local guys, Ralph, has a blue SRT-4 (you might remember him/it from Blackhawk Farms Raceway during SDAC-14?) and now has S1 and a Forge Motorsports actuator on it (maybe 17psi?) and it went 13.6 at 106mph with pump gas on radials at SDAC-15 in the ~100F temp...
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Well I don't know about mike, but I decided to pass on stage 2. I find it hard to invest $700-$1200 on something that seems to have such a wide range of results. I found a large AIS intercooler f/s for $350 and I figure that and the exhaust are a good set of upgrades on top of my stage 1. I'd still like to hear your impressions on stage 2 if you end up getting it mike.
I think most of it depends on the driver.
Also, I would guess most people arn't looking for boost leaks, I know
I didn't last year and it shows.
Stock I went 13.87@ 100
With drag radials and an open downpipe I went 13.52@100
When I tested for leaks AFTER the track had closed, I coulden't even
hold 5psi because my turbo outlet hose was so loose.
My MPH showed it too, obviously.
i have quite a bit of experience with s2, so i'll give you my input on this one as well.
i went from s0 to s2 w/toys. i never dynoed s0 so i don't have a baseline, but my last dyno with s2 was 274hp/302tq on pump gas. race gas would have put me near the 300hp mark. to get these numbers, i had a maxxfab o2 housing and dp, borla 2.5" exhaust, ipp cai, and ltb. that's all i had at that point. i spiked 21psi and held 19psi to redline. i was on the s2 wga and had no mbc.
as for track times, i never got a good run on s2 because i had some severe tranny problems which prevented me from running good times. my traps were always in the 106-108 area even though my times were 13.1-13.3 usually (3rd gear synchro and a fork were shot, made shifting kinda difficult). i could have done a 12.8 in her if i had a properly working tranny, that i'm sure of. i ran dr's btw.
s2 will hold hom using w/i. so no need for race gas on a regular basis. if going to the track you might want to throw some torco in there for good measure, but it's not completly necessary. the toys make a HUGE difference. when i first dynoed s2 i saw about a 20hp difference by pushing that red button. the biggest difference though is in the butt dyno. the car just pulls a lot harder than on pump gas. the difference is clearly seen in track times as well.
personally, i don't think that s2 w/o toys is worth it. and i don't think that s2 w/toys is worth it if you're not willing to spend the time to tune it. they say it's all plug and play, and it is to a certain extent, but you do need to fiddle with it to get everything set just right.
Thank you for that reply. I'm aware that when switched into high octane mode, S2 will yeild significant gains. However unless you order an S2 "with toys", there is no "High Octane Mode" switch. I also understand that you can use High Octane Mode on pump gas if you use water injection, but that adds even more expense to an already over-priced kit.
so if you want to be cheap about it there are ways to do that too. get a used s2 w/toys ecu and have it reflashed. get a hom switch kit when it's released from n2mb and get a w/i kit (a whole $250). about $600-700 and you basically have a s2 w/toys that will run hom whenever you want.
i'm really not sure what you're looking for here. it seems that you're more looking for an excuse NOT to get s2 rather than reasons for getting it.
SUBJECT LINE: Debating S2 w/o toys.
My original intention was to find out what kind of performance people were getting out of their S2 WITHOUT toys kits. As it turns out, S2 without toys seems to be only BARELY faster if faster at all than I am right now with S1.
I'm not wanting to be cheap about it. I want invisible modifications. I also want easily removable modifications in case I decide to sell the vehicle or return it to stock. I also think it's pretty rediculous in this day and age to need race gas to make 300hp out of a 2.4L DOHC turbocharged engine. The fact that the "toys" kits are overpriced are not the main reason for my exclusion of toys... but it doesn't help any.My SRT-4 is not a Honda, so it's hard to justify 1 tenth and 1mph for $800 or 3/10 and 3mph for 1300. I already HAVE a race car which i want to see in the 10's in the 2006 season, and that gets the larger portion of my fun budget.
s2 w/o toys is a waste of money. the toys are what make the kit.
having a race car, you should know that it takes money to go fast, and just because the srt is cheap doesn't mean that it's not going to cost anything to get it faster. i don't know what other car can give you factory support that will give you a 12s car with a 4-stage boost controller and timing switch for $1300. in the over all sceme of things, that's nothing. i know what it's like to build a high hp car, and i know the money that it takes to get there. we're in the middle of building our mustang, should be 700hp and do 9's when all is said and done, so i'm well aware of what that takes. the srt is cheap, but if you want reliable performance you need to spend money just like with anything else.
if you don't want to get the s2 kit then just do a s1/wga/mbc with some supporting mods and call it a day.
I'm really sorry for the long response in advance. A buddy of mine has had drag strip times to go with the chatter here. Stage 1 best time 113.95 at 103 on a hot day that was pretty humid too. he already had a 2.5 inch downpipe and a larger fmic. He bought a stage 2 with toys, ran a best of 13.42 at 107 in similar weather and the usual for srt-4's massive wheel hop. with 105 octane gas and slightly better weather and high octane switch on ran 13.36 at 108. My views on the toys are this. The intercooler sprayer is only good for leaving puddles, The high octane switch with 94 octane gas pings like crazy and doesn't adjust ignition timing. (just like the smec's) The 4 position switch's advantage over having no switch is full boost in first gear. Translation - MASSIVE wheel hop. High octane sets ignition timing to 35 deg. BTDC. It seems to take a HUGE sensor output from the knock sensor to kick it out of high octane mode. btw the adjustable wga is set to spike at 20 psi and settle at 18. I can't believe you read this whole thing.-jaim
Even when it's just parked in the driveway.Mine's doing that again.
First post....
Unless you will be running race gas, dont get with toys. A big fmic will do the same if not better then the ugly mopar intercooler sprayer. You would think for $1300, mopar could've came up with a design a tad better then random wires and tubes.
Stage 2 without toys definately rips, thats for sure. I acctually ordered it with toys, but I am not going to install toys because to me it really isnt worth it now. So, I'm just going to get a boost controller with that money. Right now in the cold weather we have here about 20-30 degrees daily i boost like 12ish cuz its super cold and i tear up all of 1st(of course) and all of second, and my buddy has stage 2 spiking 19 psi and holding like 17 and its really quick. His only other mods are intake. So, it's really up to you, but in my opinion its worth it. With or without toys is up to you.
X2
I went from stock to Stage 2 W/O, and it's a huge difference, between night and day. I wish I had track times to back it up, local track doesen't open up till April 15th.
i believe from reading on the srtforums that people are running like 13.3 and lower with stage 2. of course this varies with driver, and slick and other mods.
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