Steering & Suspension Questions

[Polygon]

Just dropped all the suspension bits and I have a few questions.

1. I need to know what the size of some bolts are as they were rusted to the inner metal sleeves. I need the upper and lower bolt sizes for the rear shocks. The bolts sizes for the lower control arms, and the bolt sizes for the trailing arms.

2. I decided to replace the rack while I'm in there. Does anyone know of a good part number at Napa, Rock Auto, Checker, or Autozone for the sport rack that went in the GTC and Shelby Daytona? These places seem to be having trouble finding the right one. Or maybe it's just me.

3. The rear brake lines were pretty rusted and in the process of getting them out they broke. I have new flex lines but I need the hard lines that run down the trailing arm. Does anyone know where I can find some? I have a friend that said Autozone has that it predone sizes, and you can just bend them to fit?

[Polygon]

Anyone know if this is the right steering rack?

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=252&PTSet=A

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Atsco

[turbovanman²]

Just dropped all the suspension bits and I have a few questions.

1. I need to know what the size of some bolts are as they were rusted to the inner metal sleeves. I need the upper and lower bolt sizes for the rear shocks. The bolts sizes for the lower control arms, and the bolt sizes for the trailing arms.

Shock bolts are 10mm, I believe the control arm bolts are 12mm. Trailing arms, I would also guess at 12mm. I can check the control arm bolts tomorrow, I have some lying around.

2. I decided to replace the rack while I'm in there. Does anyone know of a good part number at Napa, Rock Auto, Checker, or Autozone for the sport rack that went in the GTC and Shelby Daytona? These places seem to be having trouble finding the right one. Or maybe it's just me.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

I would be wanting the one for 16" wheels, I can look at my cataloque at work tomorrow, it might have the info.

3. The rear brake lines were pretty rusted and in the process of getting them out they broke. I have new flex lines but I need the hard lines that run down the trailing arm. Does anyone know where I can find some? I have a friend that said Autozone has that it predone sizes, and you can just bend them to fit?

I know someone had a thread poking around that had a source for stainless lines, try this guy, if not, you have to make your own, as long as you have a flaring tube tool, your all set.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/member.php?u=429

[Polygon]

Shock bolts are 10mm, I believe the control arm bolts are 12mm. Trailing arms, I would also guess at 12mm. I can check the control arm bolts tomorrow, I have some lying around.

I was more curious about the threads, like the seat bolts are M8x1.25. I had to cut the bolts to get them out as they were rust welded to the inner sleeves.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

I would be wanting the one for 16" wheels, I can look at my cataloque at work tomorrow, it might have the info.

Hehehe, just takes me to the the main page to select the make. What do you think about the last two I linked to? They are the same part number and they are for 15" or 16" wheels but don't really specify if they are the quicker ratio. I'm also curious about the brand.

I know someone had a thread poking around that had a source for stainless lines, try this guy, if not, you have to make your own, as long as you have a flaring tube tool, your all set.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/member.php?u=429

Yep, they're for an L-body though. I don't see why they couldn't be made to work. I'll have to send hm a PM.

[turbovanman²]

I was more curious about the threads, like the seat bolts are M8x1.25. I had to cut the bolts to get them out as they were rust welded to the inner sleeves.

Ok, I'll check tomorrow, send me a PM to remind me.

Hehehe, just takes me to the the main page to select the make. What do you think about the last two I linked to? They are the same part number and they are for 15" or 16" wheels but don't really specify if they are the quicker ratio. I'm also curious about the brand.

I hate that, lol.

O'reilly's link does the same, main page.

2nd one, has a different number than Rock's. I can check tomorrow for you as well.

Yep, they're for an L-body though. I don't see why they couldn't be made to work. I'll have to send hm a PM.

Yeah, not sure on how different they are.

[Polygon]

Alright, thanks Simon.

[Polygon]

Now I've got another one. I can't find the upper and lower rubber spring isolators for the rear. Anyone help?

[Turbozcs2003]

Now I've got another one. I can't find the upper and lower rubber spring isolators for the rear. Anyone help?

Factory part #s from 89 Fac cat J body

#16 Cup Jounce bumper one notch 4228 096
Cup Jounce bumper three notches 4228 440

#15 Isolator spring Upper 4147 759

#14 Bumper Jounce 4228 159 Bumper jounce

#30 Isolator Spring lower 4228 799

[135sohc]

Factory part #s from 89 Fac cat J body

#16 Cup Jounce bumper one notch 4228 096
Cup Jounce bumper three notches 4228 440

#15 Isolator spring Upper 4147 759

#14 Bumper Jounce 4228 159 Bumper jounce

#30 Isolator Spring lower 4228 799

#16 is NS1, Had a dealer do a national search and nobody had them leftover. Same with partsvoice.

#15 was available last year, not sure about it currently

#14 same as #15

#30 is on backorder from the dealer, get those from Johnny @ PB and call it good.




I had Inline-tube make me a set of SS brakelines for my Dodge B van. Send them the old ones and they can duplicate them. Very fast service and a good price. Mine was a long & short line to span a rear axle, $45 and they were identical to the originals.

[Polygon]

I can't have someone make them, they came off in pieces. I'll get the lowers from Johnny, and the uppers might still be available at the dealer, at least it shows they are online.

Any ideas on the other questions. Namely the PS rack?

[neongary]

If you look at the Rock Auto listing, there are 2 "A-1 Cardone" racks. The one is for sales code SBB (22320) which is the the quicker ratio and the other
(22313) is for sales code SBA which is the standard steering. I ended up ordering one locally since it was also a Cardone re-man. Rock Auto was cheaper, but with shipping on the core return, the total difference was minor.
My local NAPA also has the 2 different racks listed like that too. If yours is a GTC, I would think it came with the quicker ratio. Sorry, can't help with Autostoned or O'Reillys.

[Polygon]

Yeah, it's a GTC so I need the quick ratio. I have to go down to Napa to get the other axle today. I'll just get one from them while I'm there, thanks!

[Turbozcs2003]

If you look at the Rock Auto listing, there are 2 "A-1 Cardone" racks. The one is for sales code SBB (22320) which is the the quicker ratio and the other
(22313) is for sales code SBA which is the standard steering. I ended up ordering one locally since it was also a Cardone re-man. Rock Auto was cheaper, but with shipping on the core return, the total difference was minor.
My local NAPA also has the 2 different racks listed like that too. If yours is a GTC, I would think it came with the quicker ratio. Sorry, can't help with Autostoned or O'Reillys.

I assume you replaced your rack already

Did you pull the column out and then drop the racK or did you leave the column alone and slid the rack and coupler off the end of the steering column??

[Polygon]

I assume you replaced your rack already

Did you pull the column out and then drop the racK or did you leave the column alone and slid the rack and coupler off the end of the steering column??

I'd be interested to know as well. What tool and method do I need to do to get that damn pin out?

[Turbozcs2003]

I'd be interested to know as well. What tool and method do I need to do to get that damn pin out?

I think you can pull the coumn out first and lower the rack with the coupler still attach. Then drive the roll pin out and swap the coupler onto the new rack and reassemble, ie do it on the floor. Then lower the column from above and reinstall that into the coupler.

At least the is how I recall. I removed a kframe in a junkyard from a Datyona and didnt realize you could yank the column out and then lower the K-frame and rack. I wasted an hour trying to drive the damn roll pin out at the coupler rack interface.

maybe a few people will chime in with their methods. Note I think the earlier cars you cant pull the column out and have to seprate with the pin but the later cars you can since they redeisgned couplers.

[Polygon]

That's what I was planning to do. However, what tool should I use to drive the pin out and can I drive it out from either side?

[Turbozcs2003]

That's what I was planning to do. However, what tool should I use to drive the pin out and can I drive it out from either side?

I would use a drift with same diameter as the roll pin or a drill blank, with a hammer of course to pop it out.

I think I found my problem, last year had loacl dealer change the timing belt and accessory belts( was very busy and didnt have time so I bit the bullet and paid).

On the ZF pump there is small L shaped rod, threaded on each end. one end has a lock nut and the other has nut washer which tensions the pump. Looks like it wasnt lock tighted or tourqued, has fallen off so the damn pump is loose. Now I hope I can find a replacement. I have the part #s and will talk to the tech(one of my pals, I'll give him $hit and see if he makes good.

Anyone here have the bolt pump adjuster for a ZF pump # 6501 619?

[neongary]

I'd be interested to know as well. What tool and method do I need to do to get that damn pin out?

It was a pain. I had my trusty assistant hold the steering wheel while I used a drift to pound the roll pin out. It took quite a bit of effort to get it out. I was dropping the crossmember to powder coat it, so left the rack bolted in and dropped the whole mess down together. I wiggled the u-joint from the splined ends and it all came off. I was able to lean over the fender and pound it like that, moving the steering wheel a little here and there to get a better angle. Granted, I have a lot of the car disassembled under hood, so it might be harder otherwise.
Tip: don't move the steering wheel after you remove the rack.

[135sohc]

They must have changed something by 94, cause when I swapped steering columns (going from fixed to tilt adjust). all I did was remove a little bolt and swing the coupler that was attached to the steeing column away from the D shaped piece connecting it to the rack.

[neongary]

I think you can pull the coumn out first and lower the rack with the coupler still attach. Then drive the roll pin out and swap the coupler onto the new rack and reassemble, ie do it on the floor. Then lower the column from above and reinstall that into the coupler.

At least the is how I recall. I removed a kframe in a junkyard from a Datyona and didnt realize you could yank the column out and then lower the K-frame and rack. I wasted an hour trying to drive the damn roll pin out at the coupler rack interface.

maybe a few people will chime in with their methods. Note I think the earlier cars you cant pull the column out and have to seprate with the pin but the later cars you can since they redeisgned couplers.

You might be right by the way you described. I found it easier in my case to do it the way I did it mainly because my engine compartment is basically empty.