Failing Rack and Pinion

[Turbozcs2003]

I have a question.

What are the signs of a failing rack and pinion? I have a rebuilt unit in my 89 Shadow ES with about 70K miles on it (258K on the car).

I just started getting the morning sickness where it does not provide any assist when you first start it in the morning. It also has start loosing the assist when I cut the wheel hard either backing up or slowly moving forward.

It also makes noise if when parked you cut the wheel hard at the extremes.

The PS pump reservior is full and I suction the fluid out of the reservoir twice a year to freshen it up with Valvoline synpower PS fluid. There are no leaks under the car.

I am guessing it is a internal rack issue and I will have to get another one. Am I looking in the right direction with the rack or am I mis-diagnosing the problem???

looks like most stores carry A1 Cardone reman units. Are these any good?



Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[neongary]

Sounds like the pump. Is the rack making a noise or pump?

[Turbozcs2003]

I think it is the rack. I will check it out tonight but the loss of the assist sounds the spool valve

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf20340.htm

[neongary]

I think it is the rack. I will check it out tonight but the loss of the assist sounds the spool valve

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf20340.htm

Good find, I'm going to bookmark that. You are probably right. Guess I head right for that pump not thinking that the rack could have failed internally.

[Turbozcs2003]

Yes

I think the quality of rebuilt stuff is hit and miss and probably doea not last as long as the original

Can anyone who had pulled a rack refresh my memory concerning the coupling of the steeering column to the rack? Can I simply pull the column up off the splined end of the rack or do I have to pop a roll pin? Also I assume the interface is a poke a yoke either with a D or flat so the two can only go back together one way. this is in a 89 Shadow but I also have to do one on my 86 Daytona(has a leak).

[Polygon]

I need to buy a new rack as well. I would also like to know what brands are good. However, around here it's mostly Atsco. I don't want to put in a new rack to have issues.

The problems you're having also sound like the rack to me. I'd also replace the lines. They're not expensive and they're cheap insurance.

[Turbozcs2003]

I think your limited to Atsco, A1 cardone(Napa and Adavnaced Auto and Carquest), Ac Delco.

I put new lines in last time but will probably swap them out.


What sucks is I always freshen upt he fluid, so I guess a reman rack is only good for 70K or so miles, the original lasted 195K.

[turbovanman²]

Its the rack, the "morning sickness" gives it away. GM's were bad back in the day, the valve assembly o-rings would cut into the rack housing perfectly, so good in fact if you took one apart, it looked like a lathe had done it.

[Turbozcs2003]

Its the rack, the "morning sickness" gives it away. GM's were bad back in the day, the valve assembly o-rings would cut into the rack housing perfectly, so good in fact if you took one apart, it looked like a lathe had done it.

Thank You

that is what I thought.

How does one remove the rack, interested in the coupler between the rack and column. As I recall the coupler is held to the rack with a roll pin and the column has a male piece shaped like a D, which slides into the female part on the coupler.

you can either pull the coulmn up and out of the coupler and deal with the rack or leave the column in place and slide the rack and coupler down? Which is easier?

Am I correct? I will drop the k-frame and pull it aart this week. I'll take some pics too, maybe it will help someone else in the future LOL

[turbovanman²]

You don't have to pull the K-member but if your doing it in the driveway, its sure makes it easier.

I just drive out the roll pin, BUT bewarned, if you pull down on the rack too hard, you'll separate the rag/slider joint, then your fun begins,