What is the best fluid to put in my Cliff R 520/555 hybrid?
What is the best fluid to put in my Cliff R 520/555 hybrid?
G.M. Synchromesh is what I use. Works awesome!
later Dick Westerhof
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 with no problems.Originally Posted by show-off
I was very happy with the Redline MTX fluid in my '88, the car shifted beautifully.
I would say any Synthetic manual gearbox lube, and of course, GM Synchromesh is the shizznit also.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Wonder if any of those would lessen a grinding problem . . . ?
Originally Posted by supercrackerbox
If its grinding due to the wrong or too thick fluid, yes, it would help. I bought a Geo Metro years ago, trans shifted very sluggish and would grind going into every gear. Checked fluid, someone had put gear oil in it, should have 10w30, so I drained it, added GM Synchromesh and it was fine, drove it for 3 years and sold it, its still good.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I use Redline MTLOriginally Posted by supercrackerbox
JT
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
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Lol, that's probably what I meant!Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance
I'm running non-synthetic 5w-30 in the 568 in my '86. It's probably just the syncros, but it's kinda weird. Sometimes it won't grind at all, sometimes it does it constantly, sometimes only on the upshift, sometimes only on the downshift. The only consistency is that it actually slips into gear easier when it does grind as opposed to not grinding. Third and occasionally fourth gears btw.
What have you got to lose, try some,Originally Posted by supercrackerbox
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Oh, about $10 a quart, lol!
Does it still grind if you shift slower or pause between gears to let the gears catch up? Worn shift fork pads (which help drag the geartrain to slow it down) can cause this. If it grinds every time into a gear, the test I use is to shake teh shifter side to side in neutral before shifting into hat gear. If it goes away, you might need new shift fork pads...Originally Posted by supercrackerbox
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
Shift fork pads were replaced before the install. Basically, when the 525 finally went, I swapped in an extra 555 I had laying around, which turned out to be missing third gear completely, so I grabbed a 568 from the j-yard and Ray and I did a quick go-thru just to make sure everything was okay. New shift pads, new diff pins, and a few other things, but the brass all looked good. It's been in there just over two years, and started grinding a year or so ago. Pausing/slow shifting/double clutching helps, but doesn't completely eliminate the problem. It's really not a big deal anyway, I plan to do a TII swap as soon as possible with either the 520 from my CSX-T or the 555 from my '88, and I'd like to rebuild this 568 completely this time to put into the '90. Stupid reasoning- I'd like to not have the old style shifter in the new style iterior. Actually, I've got an SRT-4 shifter I'd like to use.
Might be a broken or missing spring in the slider assembly. The fact that both 3rd and 4th do it makes me think it might not be the sychros.
I have very similar responses with my 568. Sometimes it likes to grind, and sometimes it doesn't seem to have that pause before slipping into gear like it normally does, and that's usually when it grinds.
Do you mean in the selector housing on top of the tranny? That'd be sweet if it was that easy.Originally Posted by MiniMopar