Long story short, I think I am going to have to repair my old fuel tank. I need to reattach the fuel pump bowl to the bottom of the tank. It looks like it originally just kind of clipped in. When I try to press it back on, it won't stay clipped. I was thinking of using some kind of an epoxy to hold it in place. The fuel pump bowl in the tank is plastic and the tank, of course, is metal. What epoxy will work that will stand up to gasoline and won't eat plastic?
I once used a gas tank repair epoxy to plug a puncture wound on one of my cars. It actually seemed to react with the gas and worked great.Originally Posted by chilort
If you have the tank off perhaps you should consider just getting a reman one.
They are only $100 shipped and you get a nice new one with no rust inside or out.
-Rich
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I bought a new Doorman tank from RockAuto. It has a fuel pump bowl in it. But there is no way for fuel to get into the bowl as far as I can see. I really didn't investigate this very far as I needed to get the car back on the road but now when I get to 1/2 a tank of gas I actually run out of gas to the fuel pump (suck for me).
Where can I get a reman tank?
Thanks for the help!
If you have a local radiator repair shop give them a call. If they can't do the repair for a reasonable fee they can probably order you a new one.
If you go with having the old one fixed also ask them if they can clean/apply a coat of "Redcoat" to the inside to seal it against rust. They usually only charge $15 or so to do this and it will save you some headaches down the road.
The bowl should have a hole in the bottom of it that is raised up like 1/8" so that the fuel can push up into it from the bottom.
Atleast that is how the one on my lbody works.
I just got my tank from ebay but make sure you get an EFI or turbo tank if running EFI or it won't have the bowl.
-Rich
Offering Custom/Niche FWD Dodge Products!
- 91+ 11" HAWK HPS/LTS Front Brake pads @ $30/1 or $55/2 sets Half Off MSRP of $70
- Custom MSD Spark Plug Wires and improved Dist Caps
- BC Racing Coilovers
- OBX LSD Rebuild Parts
- DOHC 2.0/2.4/Hybrid products
- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
Main Products/Info/Sales Webpage
l body tank is different from all other tanks.
My original 23 year old tank is in very good condition. It has no rust on the inside or the outside. This car was had Zbart treatment and that has kept it in great shape for the most part in terms of rust. The tank looks new on the inside.
Basically time to figure out how to hold the fuel pump bowl in place.
I left my old tank at my friend's house and figured I'd get it later. He's about an hour away from me. I didn't want to put the old tank in my car. Now I get/have to drive up there in my '68 pickup. Normally we meet half way when we've got stuff to swap because he works at about the 1/2 way point.
But he's got pancreatitis and had an attack today. I feel kind of bad because it seems like his attacks can be set off by too much work, not enough sleep, and a bad diet. We just spent all weekend doing just that.
Finally got the old tank back and am about to repair it. JB Weld makes something called JB Stick that is sold at auto parts stores that cures even when submerged in gasoline. Looks like I'll be using that to reattach the fuel pump bowl to the bottom of the tank this time.
theres a nipple on the right (passenger side) of the bowl a little towards the back where a hose goes onto and fills the bowl with the return line that hooks onto the nipple on the outside of the fuel send unit
of course the hose that goes onto the nipple on the fuel bowl goes onot the nipple on hte inside of the fuel send unit that the return hose goes onto the outside
and i wanted to make a KC article cataloging all the different fuel tanks and pumps.... but everyone pretty much ble me off lol
oh and dont run your car with a bad pump bowl cuz it will blow your motor up from loosing fuel pressure through turns
cheers....
how were you blown off?
Brian
i had the same issue with one of my tanks you have to like start it in the front and work it aropund the circle of the raised portion of the metal its gunna take a few tries and its gunna hurt your fingers and youll probably never get it clipped all the way on but i got mine to at least stay... but i never used that tank so idk if it would stay with fuel sloshing around in there
people looked but never had anything to share or helped at all
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=35608
maybe its cuz i went about it like an as 0 or maybe nobody liked my idea? idk idc anymore
200-2189 is napas part number
Man I had a similar issue where my car acted like it was out of gas at 1/4 of a tank. I accidentally pushed the middle of the tank in by holding it there. The fix was a broomhandle inside the tank and using prying force to push the bottom back down. Didn't take much, just the hassle of pulling the tank down.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Well fork me. I did get the fuel pump bowl snapped back in place. I also used JB stick weld to try to ensure it wouldn't go anywhere.
I have the return like hooked up correctly as well and it is a much better design than the Doorman POS.
Granted, I've only got a little more than 2 gallons in it, but I'm running out of gas going around corners.
This is uber frustrating. I don't have a dent in the bottom of my tank either.
Additionally, I did make a KC article about the different type pump holders and it has never been approved.
Sure looks like the real deal. But so does the Doorman part. It is the insides that don't work.
I was running out of gas with the Doorman tank when I had 1/2 a tank left. I just threw 5 gallons in it, have 1/2 a tank, and can now make corners. So, finally making steps in the right direction.
Just talked to a friend with a '92 turbo Daytona and he says that's the biggest reason he never lets his car get below a 1/4 of a tank. Apparently, his has always done this....
dont worry about the demand... if you have useful info (and this is useful) then post it up, ask if anyone has any oddities on the subject and then make the article.
Brian
Something is still up. Either the bowl came free again or the pump itself is sucking air somehow. If I take a hard enough corner, even with 1/2 a tank, it'll still starve the pump somehow. Is there an incorrect way to assemble one of these pumps on the hanger?
Some pictures of the correct fuel bowl and the return line attachment:
And a picture of a tool I am about ready to use on this car.
I've really just about had all I can take with this thing.
i would blow on into the hose and see if air is coming out in the bowl...
Done did it. It works well.
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