24's???Originally Posted by roachjuice
24's???
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Finally got it to the track. Happy with a few 13 second passes and killing every competitor. Hope this link works. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...referrerid=976
Now I have a problem with the coolant overflow. It's not getting hot. Stays around 180^. 180 tstat. As soon as I got it safe tuned at 18psi I took it to the track. I noticed the coolant overflow brimming. Never got hot. I've been battling this for 2 weeks now. If I keep the boost around ~10psi it never overflows. If I switch it to high boost, even for seconds, then pull over and check, overflow is higher, sometimes it overflows the catch can. Put coolant back in, run around on low boost, good to go. One thing I noticed is that the GT2871r turbo at part throttle will boost to 24psi @2800rpms, it hits so hard. WOT will stay ~18psi but boost is INSTANT. I suspect the mls head gasket is not sealing with the cylinder pressures that high at that low of rpm. There could be a problem with the surface finish of the block/head as well. I had them resurfaced, and looked good to me, but still could be a problem. I'll check the surface finish when I get it off. I think I'll run a 5 layer modded gasket too. Chime in, lmk what you think.
sounds like you are oozing some coolant past the gasket just like you guessed.
did you use the copper HG spray on the gasket before installing?
brian
Thanks Brian. No I'm using the mopar gasket sealant in a spray can, the dealer suggested to use with this gasket.
Also the plugs read odd. #1 looks black, #2 looks almost white, #3 is light gray, #4 is brown paper bag.
My guess is that the cylinder pressure is leaking into the coolant jacket, btw. I did a coolant system pressure check, held 20+psi for an hour. So my guess is that huge cylinder pressure is leaking into the coolant jacket.
Sounds like you might have lifted the head sometime during tuning.
Peak torque is where peak octane is required so maybe the 24 psi spike is causing a bit of detonation close to your peak torque area.
I usually do a leak down test with the radiator full and the cap off......you'll see bubbles in the radiator when you find the leak
Thanks Terry. I did a leakdown test, cap off, no bubbles. It Doesn't leakdown much at all. I don't think it's leaking under low pressure like the leakdown test. Only very high cylinder pressure will it leak. It seals and stays sealed under lower boost/cylinder pressure.Sounds like you might have lifted the head sometime during tuning.
Peak torque is where peak octane is required so maybe the 24 psi spike is causing a bit of detonation close to your peak torque area.
I usually do a leak down test with the radiator full and the cap off......you'll see bubbles in the radiator when you find the leak
I guess having to tear it down is not always a bad thing. I got the header off and found it to be warped AGAIN.So I'll be sawing the flange off, and making a new mild steel flange. My advise is to NEVER make the flange out of 304 stainless. It likes to move too much. Looks like about .06" of warp to me. Exhaust was obviously leaking, left witness marks on the header side of the gasket. Maybe I'll get this conversion right with enough stabs at it.
Verdict is in... Head gasket leaking into the coolant jacket. A few more problems too. I'll post some pics later.
Some pics, Straight up on the timing. You can see where it was leaking into the coolant jacket bad on #1 and #3 near the back of the cylinder.
#2 and #3 up on this pic. Definitely a difference in the color of #1 piston.
Here I've circled where the #1 piston kissed the head. Oil caused detonation, heated up the piston, aluminum swelled up until it hit the head. Amazingly this cylinder checked good on compression and good on the leakdown test. No scoring on the cylinder, still has the cross hatch from the machine shop.
Here is the #1 cylinder of the mls gasket up. Hard to tell from this crappy pic but the gasket actually bubbled from having a hot spot in the head. The new gasket will get punched out to the size of #3.
Head. Arrow shows where the piston made it's move.
Looks like it was leaking coolant here as well. Guess I'll patch up the block in that area with some jb weld. Just missed the gasket there.
And the plugs, #1-#4 from left to right.
I got the new header flange machined out today. Mild steel. Still got some hand blending to do. This side is where the header round tubes will weld on.
On the other side is the oval shape that bolts to the head. Some angle cuts on both sides to achieve it.
Wow,that's a nice flange you've made!
Thanks. After it warping .075" the first time, and about .09" this time I'm convinced to NEVER use 304 stainless for the flange. My original flange is pretty much the same as this one. Mild steel is the only way I'll go from now on.
I sawed the header flange from the tubes, and OUCH!! The tubes moves .13" on overall length!!! I think that would be my flange problem. Back to the drawing board. Can of WORMS!!
did you have the port flanges separated from each other? like saw between them? that helps alot.
Brian
No I didn't. We tacked it all together then he beaded it all around. I think I'm gonna make another one and bead all the tubes up first, then tack and bead to the flange. Flange will have some reliefs milled into it as well, before welding. This was my first ever attempt at making a header. The next one I think I'll make it all out of mild steel.
stainless is a good material to use but you pretty much need to saw between each port flange to keep it from moving all around.
brian
If I'd have sawed it, it would have closed up the gap, my bolt holes will not line up with 1/8" shorter dimension between the outermost bolts. That's why I think I should have all the tubes beaded together first. Like I said, my first time making a header, but I know the ports/bolt pattern will not match up with as much as the tubes shrank on overall length. With the stainless ells/tees I used I would need to add .04" to each port dimension to get it to shrink into port dimension after welding. Or at least that would be a starting point, one in which I feel would be on the safe side. All the old tees/ells were machined on the nuts for port dimension but after all the tees/ells were beaded up, the OAL shrank 1/8".
Last edited by DBB mini; 11-12-2009 at 08:06 AM.
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