10 second 190,000 mile low boost 3.0 build

[Reaper1]

Cool! I have some pics on my cell phone of a solid lifter/rocker head that I took at a machine shop a while ago when the idea first came up. The only thing I think I remember about them that is didn't like was they were slider instead of roller follower. I'm sure a way can be found around that, though.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Cool! I have some pics on my cell phone of a solid lifter/rocker head that I took at a machine shop a while ago when the idea first came up. The only thing I think I remember about them that is didn't like was they were slider instead of roller follower. I'm sure a way can be found around that, though.

Probably early 2.6 solid rockers, they were sliders and I believe fit the 3.0.

[Ondonti]

I actually found a bunch of rocker options out there in the junkyard. The rockers that I took are not the same ones that other people had found. I got the 91-99ish rollers and the older ones are a big different. There are also NEW style hydraulic rockers.

The slider hydraulic rockers are only a 1.3:1 ratio, the Solid Rollers are 1.5:1. We think our stockers are 1.6:1 or so but I have not measured the actual lift ratio cause I am lazy.


My problem right now is I think they need a tiny oil squirt hole drilled in them. Not sure how to drill a hole that small. Squeaking sounds from the motor and the cylinder head shop here say the valve guides may get worn out very quickly at the least and valve stem discoloration/damage etc at the worst. No more oil supply to the valve stem tip.

This is why I am glad to be using a old stock head right now.

100 miles on it yesterday going to a bbq/Meet.

[shackwrrr]

http://www.harborfreight.com/30-piec...set-94606.html

[Ondonti]

I think it might need to be much smaller then that. I don't want to bleed off too much oil pressure. Started Googling and I just remembered I have a 1000 page catalog for bits etc in my storage unit.
#80 seems to be the smallest I can find on google. about .349mm
Err I found a .2mm bit But i don't know what kind of hell that would be to drill the holes.
One .5mm hole will flow as much as ~6 .2mm holes. But I don't know if its really possible to drill a .2mm hole into the rocker in less then 5 years

If I drill a hole I think it will be just below the arm, aimed up towards the tip of the arm, and hopefully get something on the valve stem tip.

BTW, I have heard that mechanics never bother to adjust these rockers on the 1.5L motors so I don't think they are a high maintenance item.

[bakes]

Bent before drilling make sure you got the rocker shaft in the right way.i made that mistake 15 years ago.

I would drill them under the arm so they are spraying the valve stem.

[Ondonti]

Haha I have done the rocker shaft wrong before too, seized a cam in a few hundred yards after warming up the engine. I leave one end on the rocker shaft tubes so I don't have to worry about getting it right.

If I do then someone on BM had the idea to drill a larger hole, silver solder the hole, then redrill with a fine drill bit. Apparently some people do that with carb jets.

Force Fed says the OEM just relies on oil spash so I will just keep running these heads and see how they end up. I think bigger lift = bigger problem. The squeak is as loud and annoying as a squeaking throw out bearing. It doesn't always happen though.

Our heads sit at a 30 degree angle each so maybe the intake side is less happy then the exhaust side since the rocker and valve stem tip sit above everything else and probably get less splash.

[Reaper1]

So which engine did you rob the rockers from, Brent?

[Ondonti]

1.5L 12 valve mitsu from 91-99, read teh posts :P
Take the drivers side intake rocker. Requires 3 engines being stripped.

A little pissed at megasquirt. 100 mile drive and my on the fly VE tuning was not working. A little confused about a few things since I made the huge jump from 2.888 MSII to 3.03 MSII/Extra.
Old version wideband settings didn't work properly so you had to manually enter stuff. Now I am not sure what works and what doesnt. My project was set to narrowband even though the wideband is functioning and talking to tunerstudio. The old setting required that because the firmware was broken for that.

This is the stuff that sucks about megasquirt. The bugs. You get used to 1 bug, and then when they sorta fix it, they don't explain what they did.

[Reaper1]

Thanks for the refresher, Brent!

[Ondonti]

After popping in the 2nd axle she has eaten in 2 attempted passes, it was time for something on the street that would not blow an axle :P

Note that I am riding the limiter (7000 rpms right now) very hard :P
Motor seems to have no complaints. It does drop oil pressure after a run like this (crappy thick dino oil because of the loose rod journal).

[Vigo]

Looking good.. except i dont think that was 140. Unless your tach was off.

[Ondonti]

Well I just realized I read the tach wrong lol, tach is dead nuts on (works amazing since I grounded it to the same spot as megasquirt). More like 125. The car getting squirrely screws up the video at the end but it seems more like 6000 rpms.
Video is 15 seconds long.

Old Videos of the 7.0:1 compression motor running 10 pounds and the cams advanced 4 degrees. That motor gained huge power on the next 8-10 pounds of boost.


http://www.streetfire.net/video/t67-...mph_191891.htm

0-120 pull in the 2nd video is more like 116mph because the tires were at 2/32.
14 seconds long.
So not a huge difference.

Making me rethink what it will trap at the track. 117mph on 16 pounds on a bone stock 8.9:1 motor and stock ecu. So the 10:1 with cams and 11 pounds will probably fall short of that even on Megasquirt. I would like to find out. Maybe 115 mph.
We have a local crx doing 137mph on 16 pounds
I need 350z exhaust manifolds and the t4 housing with the ported heads back on. I would love 120mph on 10 pounds.

[Irocelectric93]

120 on 10 pounds would be epic Brent

[Ondonti]

Well i turned it up to 14 to go play with my friend's car and spark was blowing out. .030" gap.
Previously on the dyno it was blowing out (less because you couldn't feel it but you could see it on the dyno chart) on 7.0:1 motor and 20 pounds with a .031" gap, so 14 pounds on a 10:1 makes sense it was blowing out at .030"

Dropped spark gap to .024"

I purposely set the gap high before because I didnt want to turn up the boost. On the fun runs with my friend the alky system was not working either...Took it home, it primed when I applied pressure to the controller so I don't know what was up. Maybe the breakup was preventing the car from holding boost high enough to activate the controller. The Alky controller does not come on until 9.7 psi and is full by 13 right now.


I should have left the boost where it was because it sorta ruined the fun. Start breaking up right after the hit and he blows past.

[Ondonti]

This is the last time I drove things the way they were. Had to set her aside and then I took the stock heads/cams off. The car was never supposed to have stock heads but it was a necessity at the time.

Friend had just recently run 124mph at the track. I was the faster car that day but he was the better driver. We stayed neck and neck even though He had traction and I did not, then he kills me on shift and he runs out of gear as I hit 140mph. His motor crapped the bed here but he didn't know it yet. Melted a forged piston. I blame him running plugs that are too hot but Nissan guys are afraid of cold plugs for fear of efficiency something or other. I prefer no boom boom.


Car is now running n/a with pos stock cylinder heads with at least one leaking exhaust valve and Diamante cams. Probably going to be raced n/a for awhile since I am at sea level and Junkyard 2.0 is not even started yet. N/A goal of 13.99 on the stock motor but I don't know how much the leaking valves will hurt. I think at high rpms its not such a big deal because there is less time for pressure to leak down.
Still sticking with the same shortblock. The top of the pistons are black so its certainly consuming a bit of oil with 190,000 miles no matter how well I cleaned up the pistons and free'd up the oil rings.

[Vigo]

Oooooh a strong NX2000. I like those things.

[Reaper1]

How'd he run out of gear at 140? I've witnesses an SER hit 150 firsthand...was he running a different tranny or short tires or something?

[Force Fed Mopar]

Probably had 4.10 gears or something lol.

[Ondonti]

How'd he run out of gear at 140? I've witnesses an SER hit 150 firsthand...was he running a different tranny or short tires or something?

He can't rev past 7800 and couldn't get to 140. Other sr20's rev to 8500 or 9k+ Its his ECU. I think he needs an overclock to get up there and his eagle rods might not want to go past 8500. He is the king of indecision. Been bugging him to get a simple Calum flashable setup but he wont even do that (the easiest setup possible for him). He just runs a Calum mail order. Not sure on that spelling.

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Just won this in an auction. I dont' know when I will ever get around to building the new setup. I wanted to race it n/a but work is winning in the happiness department. Decided to buy this so I can get rid of one excuse. I don't know yet what will be the first thing that I actually work on when I do work on it. Either the T case or the exhaust manifold/downpipe.