Prop rod for the L bodies

[minigts]

L body guys, get rid of the prop rods! http://redlinetuning.com/QL-FORD-MUS-7998.html Works like a champ and takes about 20 minutes to do the first time you try. It's worth it the first time you go to work on something on your car and the prop rod isn't in the way.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=18

I was going to post this somewhere else, but didn't want to take away from the other thread. Seriously though, they work great and really allow for working on the car more easily. The original thread started by fishcleaner where the post above can be found here:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...highlight=hood

[cordes]

I have seen this in person and it looks great.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Honestly, I've never had the rod get in the way that bad

[supercrackerbox]

Honestly, I've never had the rod get in the way that bad

Haven't done a cylinder head swap on one yet?

[Force Fed Mopar]

Haven't done a cylinder head swap on one yet?

I've done quite a few actually

[minigts]

It would definitely be an improvement for the Omnis and would replace the alternate two prop rod fix for the saggy hoods. Not to mention, this allows for letting the shocks do all the work!

[Force Fed Mopar]

It would definitely be an improvement for the Omnis and would replace the alternate two prop rod fix for the saggy hoods. Not to mention, this allows for letting the shocks do all the work!

I'll agree w/ you there It is a cool mod, I just don't see it being worth 70 bucks to me, but I have a Charger and a Rampage, no Omnis

[turbokid]

Lol if the hoods in the way remove it lmao.
Its only 4 bolts

[minigts]

I'll agree w/ you there It is a cool mod, I just don't see it being worth 70 bucks to me, but I have a Charger and a Rampage, no Omnis

Well the kicker for me was that I contacted these guys about something for my car and their response, of course, was they don't have anything for it. Naturally for guys like us who own these cars, we're used to that. So I took a gamble on what seemed like a set that would work and they did, marvelously.

I also replaced my prop rod with these for two reason. The first is that it fell one time when I crossed the threshold of the garage where it steps up a bit. Fell ON my fender, wrecked the paint and bent the rod between the hood and the fender. That was it for the factory deal. Second, I had been using a piece of wood to hold the hood up and it was getting old and ugly and embarassing if I ever wanted to show off the engine.

This was an easy setup that keeps the hood way up and eliminates anything that would get in the way without having to do a lot of unnecessary moving of things each time. AND I can also remove the fenders if I ever need to and still have the hood propped up as they are mounted next to them. I just figured if anyone had an inkling to eliminate the rod, this would be a good way to go. I too initially thought that it seemed expensive to get them, but based on my scenario, it was the best money I ever spent for what it does and the long term value of having a hood that will hold itself up is worth it.

[Mopar318]

Someone should try to attach the daytona hinges to the L-body. Those things have probally 200 pounds of pressure when they go up.

[minigts]

Yeah, I don't know what the rating would be for these. I have a modified hood that is definitely heavier than the factory and it holds it up real well. It's not too hard so that you would cause damage to the hood if you try and close it, but the shocks aren't working hard at all to push it up. I was always jealous of EVERY OTHER FWD Dodge. It's so silly they went with a simple prop rod, sheesh!

[83rampage]

Someone should try to attach the daytona hinges to the L-body. Those things have probally 200 pounds of pressure when they go up.

I'm in the process of doing this with a pair of shadow hinges... I'd post a pic but I can't figure out how.

Only thing with this mod is you need to hack up the cowl to make room for the spring as it flips down.

[minigts]

I'm in the process of doing this with a pair of shadow hinges... I'd post a pic but I can't figure out how.

Only thing with this mod is you need to hack up the cowl to make room for the spring as it flips down.

I was kind of wondering what the clearance was like with those type hinges.

The only thing you have to do with these (the Redline Racing hood shocks) is make 5 holes for each side, 2 behind the rubber seal and 3 in the hood for the rivets. Very easy and works well. The only concern or issue I would bring up is being very careful not to let the drill go too far when drilling the holes in the hood. I even tried to mark the bit and be very careful and still hit the hood on the first hole. Didn't do any real damage, but there's a TINY place you can see where the drill bit hit.

[83rampage]

I'm not quite getting what your saying about the holes... you must have don e it different than me.

I chose to "graft" the 2 hinges together and try to give it as much of a factory look as I could. Had to cut up the shadow hinges considerably to get it done and keep the original hinge so the hood still opens the same way.

Shadow hinges are really quite different in how they are designed to open the hood.

I just love how the hood doesn't sag down on the one side anymore.

Pics would really help illustrate what I did.

[minigts]

I'm not quite getting what your saying about the holes... you must have don e it different than me.

I chose to "graft" the 2 hinges together and try to give it as much of a factory look as I could. Had to cut up the shadow hinges considerably to get it done and keep the original hinge so the hood still opens the same way.

Shadow hinges are really quite different in how they are designed to open the hood.

I just love how the hood doesn't sag down on the one side anymore.

Pics would really help illustrate what I did.

Sorry, my comments about the holes drilled is with regards to what I did, not the hinge type. I actually did re-read what I had written and thought it may sound like I was referring to the hinge type instead of what I have with the shocks. Correcting it!

[83rampage]

Sorry, my comments about the holes drilled is with regards to what I did, not the hinge type. I actually did re-read what I had written and thought it may sound like I was referring to the hinge type instead of what I have with the shocks. Correcting it!

Ahh, now I understand.

Doing the shocks is quick and easy, but I am basically "restoring" my Rampage at present, so taking the extra time (and modifying the cowl) for a factory look is what I'm after. In it's present state doing that sort of thing isn't a problem. Wouldn't try it on a car that is being driven.

I say restore because it is a restoration, but I'm adding a bunch of stuff L-bodies never had, basically stealing the design/parts from Daytonas and Shadows. For example, I'm also in the process of shoe-horning in a Daytona dash, complete with center console, trip computer, digitial guages, etc. Also got a pair of mint Daytona seats so it will be unlike any other Rampage out there when finished.

[Mopar318]

I was kind of wondering what the clearance was like with those type hinges.

The only thing you have to do with these (the Redline Racing hood shocks) is make 5 holes for each side, 2 behind the rubber seal and 3 in the hood for the rivets. Very easy and works well. The only concern or issue I would bring up is being very careful not to let the drill go too far when drilling the holes in the hood. I even tried to mark the bit and be very careful and still hit the hood on the first hole. Didn't do any real damage, but there's a TINY place you can see where the drill bit hit.

Thats why you use a drill stop.