What tools and/or parts are needed, to change the input shaft bearing?
What tools and/or parts are needed, to change the input shaft bearing?
good question, i need to know this as well
Can anyone give me directions of how to change the input shaft bearing please? HELP ME!
the inner race is pressed onto the input shaft so the whole thing has to come out. The outer race is held in by the input retainer
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
Buy/borrow a 1990-1994 drivetrain/chassis service manual.
The bearing at the front of the input shaft where it mates to the bell housing?
That's a bearing removal tool and a special tool to install it. I have the tool to install it. I picked it up off of ebay for cheap.
Removal of the race is easy, a slightly smaller socket and extention will tap it out real easy. Take the shaft to a shop in town that has a press and bearing spreader and have the R&R the bearings on the shaft.
Installation is easy too.
Measure how deep it is from the pad that the retainer mounts to and tap it in a little less than that, figure .10". Then install just the shaft with new bearing and the rear retainer plate and the iron retainer. Then install the front retainer w/o the shim. If you put the race at the right depth the retainer will press it in the rest of the way once you start to snug up the bolts.
Now measure your endplay. I found it easiest to set the trans on end -bellhousing side down near the edge of a table; you want to be able to reach up and grab the input shaft.
1 Set your dial mic on the 5th gear end of the shaft.
2 Now turn the shaft back and forth to settle the front bearing.
3 Zero your mic.
4 Now press the shaft upwards and turn it back and forth to settle the rear bearing.
5 Do steps 2 and 4 several times while reading the mic to get a good reading of what the endplay is.
6 Chances are if you are only changing the bearing and race it will still be within spec using the old front retainer. If you are changing the retainer you may need a different thickness select shim to properly set endplay.
7 Measure your original shim and compare that to the endplay readings you got.
Endplay
- shim thickness
= acceptable endplay Using this formula determine what thickness shim you require.
8 remove the front retainer and install the proper shim. Put a 1/16" bead of RTV on the flange of the retainer and reinstall. Do not use too much RTV since it may cause the retainer to not seat properly and will screw up the endplay setting.
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
The biggest PITA is getting the nut on 5th gear off and then back on. I had a friend take some spare angle iron and make a rectangle to use as a tool to hold 5th gear in place to remove the nut. There are flats on 5th gear, have the sides of the rectangle go along these flats, the other end of the rectangle will go over the end of the cluster shaft; this all prevents the input shaft from turning to R&R that nut. You may want to make your tool in an 8 shape, or similar to a cinder block as mine distorted while torquing the nut during reassembly; the extra piece int he center may help prevent the distortion. I was able to get about 5 ft/lbs shy of spec before it bent and allowed the shaft to start turning.
If you have access to the factory tool to hold 5th gear in place use it! I was able to borrow one and it is the cat's azz when working with that nut, much better than my improvized tool.
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
The service manual spec is 2 thousands end play, tonight I reassembled mine with the matching original retainer and shim. Not even measuring with the dial indicator it was super, super sloppy, checked w/indicator and there was 11.5-12 thousands end play (wtf?!?!) :0 Dug through my shim collection and got what I ~believe~ to be the shim from the 523 I robbed for parts, pop it in and theres now zero end play and the turning torque feels almost none. Tomorrow I'll be borrowing a deflecting beam torque wrench to verify the turning torque is within spec and if it is should I just leave it alone ? I am of the thought that the bearings are only going to get looser after the initial break in and then subsequent usage so setting it up loose to begin with seems to run contrary to everything I've ever done with tapered rollers.
i've been searching a while now and couldn't find the 1990-1994 drivetrain/chassis service manual. where did you guys get yours? is there some online store i could get it from?
If you get this one it will show you how to rebuild the early ones too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...#ht_2763wt_871
thanks for the links!!!
so both will show the rebuild procedure of a '92 A568?
The 94 manual wont mention the 568 since its last year was 93 but save for the differential gearlash setup they are 100% the same anyways.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke