TII daytona wont start after upgrades.

[Mopar318]

I just finished installing my engine back in, and I am scratching my head with trying to get it to start. While the engine was out, I ported and added a 2 piece intake. Fabricated a turbo manifold and Hybrid turbo. Installed a MP headgasket. I also added a shelgame computer with 3 bar map, and +40 injectors. The rotor points right near the number 1 plug point when the notch on the flywheel is near 8 degree.

Here are my symptoms. The car will crank fine, but I dont get any fire. I have spark, I have 100-120 compression in all cylinders, and I can feel good pressure in the fuel line, but I still yet to get a fuel pressure gauge to test the pressure. I also hooked a logic anylizer to the fuel injector plug, and I am getting a pulse. This pretty much rules out the computer as being faulty.

I am thinking I may have a ground not hooked up. Sometimes when I turn the key the fuel pump relay will click on and off very eratically. I worked on this about 6 hours today testing various components. I will have to go back to work on with a fuel pressure testor and see if thats my problem, but Im thinking its something else.

Any ideas?

[turbovanman²]

Cam at the right spot? Are you using the right flywheel mark? you could be 180 deg out.

Make sure the intake ground at the back is there and the fuel rail ground is hooked up as this will make the ASD relay click on and off.

Honestly, putting a new computer on after doing work is risky, I would put your old computer back in, using the 3 bar map and it will act like stock injectors, this will allow it to start if its a computer issue.

[Mopar318]

Im almost 100% sure the cam is right and it is timed correctly. I never took the cam out, and I followed the timing procedure too the book, plus double checked it a few times. Its not possible to put the distributer in 180 out is it? I dont have my old computer or I would put it back in to see if there is a problem.

How many grounds total should there be from the harness. I have been searching for wiring schematics with no luck. I have the fuel rail harness grounded to the intake manifold. There are two grounds leading out of the injector harness. I did check the connection with a multi meter and it is solid ground.. From my guess, two of the injectors should be firing at the same time, with the computer switching off the ground for a pulse width. You think I would still show a pulse on the logic anylizer with a bad SMEC?

[bakes]

How long has the injectors been sitting dry might have stuck pintales

try flipping the injecting rail over and crank it over see if you have a spray pattern( PS ground the coil wire during this test)

[Mopar318]

How long has the injectors been sitting dry might have stuck pintales

try flipping the injecting rail over and crank it over see if you have a spray pattern( PS ground the coil wire during this test)

The injectors are brand new from mopar.

That is my next thing to do if I check and have good pressure.

[Force Fed Mopar]

There should be a large ground wire in the engine/alternator harness that bolts to the driver end of the head. You did plug the HEP up right?

[cordes]

I would reset the computer, try to start it, then pull the codes. If you get a code 11 you will know it's the hep, otherwise it most likely isn't.

[Mopar318]

There should be a large ground wire in the engine/alternator harness that bolts to the driver end of the head. You did plug the HEP up right?

Large ground wire is bolted on, HEP is pluged in.

[Mopar318]

I would reset the computer, try to start it, then pull the codes. If you get a code 11 you will know it's the hep, otherwise it most likely isn't.

What type of signal should the HEP be sending? If I know that I should be able to test it with either the multi-meter or the logic anylizer. The logic anylizer will show any electric pulse that the leads are one, thats why its a great tool for checking the injectors plugs.

[2.216VTurbo]

If you have spark the HEP is working. I'm with Simon on this one (crickey, did I just say that) you're 180' out on the timing. Did you pull the #1 plug and make sure the piston was UP when you used the flywheel mark? Yes it is possible to be 180 on the distrib that way...

[shadow88]

^^^ Good thinking!!

With all the clicking, I'd put a known good computer in after checking Alan's suggestion.

[Mopar318]

I timed it with the motor on the stand not using the flywheel mark. I put the #1 piston at TDC. set the cam with the dot up, dizzy notch lined up parralell with the block and the rotor to the 10-o-clock position with the dizzy back in.

Im going to test the fuel pressure today and I will report back. I will also recheck to make sure its not 180 out.

With the flywheel notch on 0 where SHOUld the #1 piston be, and where should the rotor be pointing?

[t3rse]

Like they said, the flywheels have two marks on them, factory ones have a little hole in the right one, new ones do not (stick a pencil in the hole to be sure). The dist should be pointing left in line with the block at TDC and piston at TDC.

[Mopar318]

IT RUNS!!

Found out the small connector going into the computer had a bunch of corrosion inside the pins cousing the relays to click on-off eratically. Cleaned them out and the car started right up.

And get this. I have almost 70psi oil pressure on cold start. I didnt know TD's were plausible of having good oil pressure. The cars runs way smoother that it did before even with a 2 inch long downpipe. The timing was off a tooth before.

Anyways, thanks guys for taking the time to make some responses.

It does take a couple starts and dies before it idles correctly, but I expect its just the computer adjusting. Once I get the downpipe built and the axles in it will be drive time.

[turbovanman²]

IT RUNS!!

Found out the small connector going into the computer had a bunch of corrosion inside the pins cousing the relays to click on-off eratically. Cleaned them out and the car started right up.

And get this. I have almost 70psi oil pressure on cold start. I didnt know TD's were plausible of having good oil pressure. The cars runs way smoother that it did before even with a 2 inch long downpipe. The timing was off a tooth before.

Anyways, thanks guys for taking the time to make some responses.

It does take a couple starts and dies before it idles correctly, but I expect its just the computer adjusting. Once I get the downpipe built and the axles in it will be drive time.

Mines 75 cold and idles at 40 psi if memory serves,

[Mopar318]

Mines 75 cold and idles at 40 psi if memory serves,

Cool, cleaning the RTV chunks out the the pickup screen really made mine jump.

[Mopar318]

So I went for a little drive. I can drive and shift through the gears normal fine, when I give it some gas as soon as it hits boost it starts to pop and cut out, and the AFR spikes lean. Once back to idle it idles great.

How long should the computer take to adjust to everything? I was thinking the boost tables are built in and its a closed loop operation during boost, so the computer adjusting shouldnt matter. Am I wrong?

By the way Im running a 3bar map with +40's and a shelgame cal. Fuel pressure is set to 50psi with the car running and the vaccumm line plugged. Before I put the map in I tested it and the readings were correct for atmosperhic pressure.

[DodgeZ]

There should be a large ground wire in the engine/alternator harness that bolts to the driver end of the head. You did plug the HEP up right?

beat me to it.

[Mopar318]

beat me to it.

Lol, your way behind.

[Captain Chaos]

So I went for a little drive. I can drive and shift through the gears normal fine, when I give it some gas as soon as it hits boost it starts to pop and cut out, and the AFR spikes lean. Once back to idle it idles great.

How long should the computer take to adjust to everything? I was thinking the boost tables are built in and its a closed loop operation during boost, so the computer adjusting shouldnt matter. Am I wrong?

By the way Im running a 3bar map with +40's and a shelgame cal. Fuel pressure is set to 50psi with the car running and the vaccumm line plugged. Before I put the map in I tested it and the readings were correct for atmosperhic pressure.

It won't matter what MAP sensor you're running if it doesn't have a vacuum line going to it.