My stupid PLX m300 shuts off because it is overheating. Anyone ever had this sort of issue? I can't tune my car because of it, and it is too rich, and I don't want to blindly pull fuel out of it. Anyways, don't buy a m300.
My stupid PLX m300 shuts off because it is overheating. Anyone ever had this sort of issue? I can't tune my car because of it, and it is too rich, and I don't want to blindly pull fuel out of it. Anyways, don't buy a m300.
Mine has never done that.Originally Posted by t3rse
Love my innovate LC-1
me too!!Love my innovate LC-1
-Jim Too many cars, not enough time..
First time it did it was at SDAC 17...didn't for a long time, then started acting up again. I contacted PLX and was basically told to either go eff myself or buy another unit (specifically he said a newer unit is better so I should drop 250 to get a new PLX to which I responded I already have a lma3 so if I must I will not be buying PLX).
B: where is yours mounted?
That is very dissapointing to hear. I'm thinking about tech edge for my next one.
The controller shuts off because it's overheating or does the sensor get overheated?
If the car just idles (at 1050 egt) it will shut off. Ambient temp is what determines how long it stays on (95 to 101 in this season). The logger is on the same circuit as the m300, and it doesn't shut down, so I figured it isn't a power feed issue. If I cut power to the device (which now requires shutting the car off; I used to be able to just unplug it from the cig lighter...which ironically enough is the only comfort device left in the car) it will run for a few (30 to a minute) seconds before shutting off.
I'm going Innovate simply because I already have the logger interface.
i love my techedge wideband. if you go DIY, the cable is a bit of a ba$tard to construct but it works awesome!
Brian
You and Frank are the reasons I will be getting one next. If the AU dollar takes a really big dip in the fall or winter I will go ahead and pick one up for the shadow.i love my techedge wideband. if you go DIY, the cable is a bit of a ba$tard to construct but it works awesome!
Brian
You can just cut the cable off a PLX that has taken a dump....i love my techedge wideband. if you go DIY, the cable is a bit of a ba$tard to construct but it works awesome!
Brian
PLX cable is the same annoying connector as the tech edge?
Brian
hahaha Another bonus for Innovate, they're customer service is TOP NOTCH! They replaced my XD-16 gauge when it went TU for free. No arguments whatsoever. They did have me try a couple things to determine if it was the guage or the controller. Email replies were instantaneous. I just saw a gauge/LC-1/sensor kit on ebay brand new for $189. Can't beat that.
ewwww...no....but the socket for sensor is intactPLX cable is the same annoying connector as the tech edge?
Brian
ahhh gotcha.
brian
Sometimes I read these threads and think 'tastes great' vs 'less filling'. LOL I haven't actually needed tech support for either of my lc1s and they've both been operating for 2 or 3 years now. Haven't even needed a recal. At least now I know to stay away from PLX.
I wired up the lc1 today, and I have 3 major complaints...well one isn't so major.
The first is the amount of wiring involved. It was much more annoying than I anticipated. There are two ground that are supposed to be wired to the same ground point, so why aren't they integrated in the controller housing...for starters.
My bigger complaints: the serial connection uses a stereo mini-jack. The output from the lc1 is a female 3/32" jack, and the input for the lma3, or any other Innovate logging device is a female 3/32" jack. WTF were you thinking? Why not have the output from the lc1 be a male jack? Apparently Radio Shack no longer sales male-male mini-jack adapters, so I'm going to have to wire one up and each solder end is 5$. Thanks fellas.
My biggest complaint: why is the o2 jack attached to the controller housing? The sensors have short cables, so I'm forced to have the controller in the engine bay....I really don't need, and can't imagine that anyone else would, to have such a long cable for power and and whatnot, so why not put a little cable on the other end so the controller housing can be in the cabin? Even if people do need to have 6 feet of power cable, you have to solder all that up anyways, so it wouldn't be a big deal to extend as needed, rather than have the controller within two feet of the exhaust.
Funny I never had an issue with my PLX.
No fun cars any more :(
The grounds are supposed to go to the same ground, not the same point. Like both grounds to the body, but separated by a couple of inches, for example. They do it so they don't have feedback or an offset from the heater ground on the signal ground.
Mine came with a male-male connector, and I believe the XD-16 have a male connector on one end. Sad to hear that they've stopped shipping them with the kits.
Mine's mounted in the engine bay just above the compressor outlet on the firewall, I guess it didn't seem like that big a deal since everything is sealed.
I solder those grounds to a single eyelet connector and just mount it to the battery. The datalogging kit I got had a male/male a long one, somewhere I picked up a short male/male. Seems to be a hit or miss in the kits with those. I mount my controllers on the bracket that holds the tranny mount by the battery. Works good there too. If you mount the controller inside the car you're gonna need a big hole to get that O2 connector through the fire wall. Unless you can figure out how to take it apart and run each wire through. I couldn't figure it out and I didn't want to break the connector.
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