Today I was on the highway in 5th at about 2000rpm, and I hit the gas to pass a slow car, and the revs climbed a lot faster than usual, and I noticed that I wasn't going any faster. First thought is that I need a new clutch. Is there any other possibility that would produce this result (only happens when the boost gets over ~7psi and the revs over 2000 where it starts making power), and if so, is there anything I can do without taking the transmission off to keep it driveable much longer?
I would try and keep out of the boost as much as you can to prevent the clutch from slipping which will only serve to agrivate the problem.
Time for a new clutch.
I'd like to get a better clutch than stock. What's required to updgrade the 90 A568 to the 91 with the larger input for the R/T clutch?
I have not read any definitive info on the small spline trans being any weaker than the large spline. I am sure that some one will find the limit, but unless you are planning to make upwards of 500HP I would not worry.Originally Posted by Whorse
Just stick with the small spline trans. You will have a much heavier wallet in the long run.
I've just heard that the T3 clutch/pressure plate combo has much greater durability, but I dont' think I'll ever see over 250hp in this car.
I actually just ordered a T2/T3 combo from TU yesterday. I can't wait to get a more streetable clutch in the shadow. Since getting some of the creature comforts back in the car is my goal, it will be a good start.
I was looking at the same thing myself. I couldnt' find it on TU, only on FWD-P. Is it listed on their website?
It sure is. $150 right now. A hummer of a deal in my book.
Other than tapping for a drain plug since the 568 doesn't have one, any upgrades/replacements that should be done when I'm doing this?
I have read many guys latly reccomending that the input shaft seal be replaced. You might want to replace the seal for the axles too, as they are cheap and it sucks to pull an axle.
Where on the TU site is the combo pack listed? I still can't find it
The seals are definately a good recommendation while the trans is out anyway. Possibly a rear main as well while your in there?
-Gary Mazzone-
1986 GLHS #168
^^ +1 on the seals. All 4 of them.
I need to drive my car every day, and don't have a hoist, so are there any recommendations for removing it on the ground with just jacks and axle stands?
In the FAQ section for Transmission is a process to get it out. It basically assumes you don't have a lift.
I got lucky, I hope, and will be using a lift this weekend to put my new trans and clutch in
-Gary Mazzone-
1986 GLHS #168
Have a friend help you for sure.
When I did mine I did it basically the same way that it's in the FAQ, only I didn't disconnect the clutch cable from the pedal. Getting it back in is a tad tricky, it's much easier without the dogbone/bobble strut bracket attached.
Put the best clutch you can in there. Better to do it once than twice. I just dropped a SPEC stage 3 6 puck ceramic in my Tona. I love it. Best clutch I've had in a Turbo dodge. The car revs quicker (lighter than the T2/T3 setup) and the pedal feel is awesome! It does engage a bit quicker but with the moved fulcrum points it's like I put a hydraulic clutch in the car the pedal is so light. Seriously only my bone stock audi with a hydraulic clutch has a lighter feel. It's lighter than a stock T1. I love it! Driveability is great. Do it once, Do it right! Getting the tranny in and out sucks.
With that setup how is your pressure plate, and which flywheel are you using? Any additional wear noticed?
Using the whole Stage 3 kit with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. 2500lb pressure plate feels like I described above. Only had it in a week.
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