I'm trying to sell a T2 pulled from a 89 Shelby. The motor's got a rebuild tag on it so I'm not sure if it's the original engine that's been rebuilt or some other 2.2. If I pull the oil pan and take a pic of the crank/rods will you guys be able to tell me if it's a HW rod motor?
I don't have the part # off the top of my head, but #1) is it will be bushed for full a floating setup. #2) it will look about as beefy as a small block Chevy rod vs the wimply LW rods. #3) www.thedodgegarage.com
Originally Posted by 22mopar
Steve
'90 VNT competition package Shadow - T-III SC6262 conversion/restoration
'91 Spirit R/T - white
'91 Spirit R/T - white
'92 IROC R/T - red
'67 Barracuda 273 now, 440/727 awaits....
We should be able to tell if it has a forged crank or not just by looking at a pic, but the rods are a bit harder. You should be able to get the PN off the beam of the rod, which will be easy enough to look up.
84 Laser XE TII A555 89 Caravan SE TIV A568
I took a couple pics of what was under the oil pan, don't know if you guys can see enough to tell. I really didn't want to have to pull the head and unbolt a rod to find out for sure. Everything is very clean in there and the crank has a few #'s stamped onto it, not sure what they mean. There's a 25373 stamped into one crank fillet and an undescribable symbol followed by a 3AH on another fillet.
Those are HW rods, and a forged crank. The rods are wider, and the crank is sort of smooth looking on the counter weights.
84 Laser XE TII A555 89 Caravan SE TIV A568
I'd be inclined to agree with TOP but if you turned the crank a bit and shot another pic I'd be more sure. We cant see the parting line the way the it's lined up in that shot...
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
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Where's this parting line in the crank? I take it only the forged cranks had that line??
Both the cast cranks and the forged cranks have a parting line from the mold. The difference is in the line. Cast cranks have a 'raised/sharp/narrow' (1/8")parting line but the forged cranks have a relatively low profile/smooth(ish)/wide (like 1/4-3/8") parting line. Other guys like to give the crank a tap with a small hammer and listen for the 'ring' of a cast crank. That works great when a cast and forged are standing next to eachother on the ground, you really can hear the difference but it's pretty subjective if you just have one crank to tap on
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
LW rods will have "LW" stamped on one side and the cast crank is easy to spot. There is a Shelby Z at the junkyard which had the motor replaced judging from the painted block and RTV slopped all over the head gasket. I pulled the oil pan off and knew the crank was cast at first sight and the rods had LW markings. Somebody swapped in a T1 at one point which is too bad for me. The forged crank would have went great with my 6 bolt crank early rod engine.
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