KYB AGX adjustable strut install on TD!!!!

[Vigo]

Well the overall length of k-car and l-body struts is about the same, so the Impreza AGX's will work in that way.

You're drilling new holes to match the spindle anyway, but since k-car and l-body spacing is the same they work there.

Both l-body and k-car strut tops need the strut shaft to be turned down as pictured so that the shaft will go all the way through the top and pop out the top. So if you use either one of those, that part of the mod is the same.

The neon strut tops probably wouldnt require you to cut the strut shaft at all, because neon struts come the same way those AGX's do as far as the thread depth. Neon tops also fit the l-body strut tower holes with their third stud knocked out.

Also, since k-car springs fit the impreza strut lower spring perch, you would probably use some kind of k-car springs, and k-car springs should fit the neon upper spring perch because im using neon springs on k-car strut tops so it should work the other way as well.

So with all that... im pretty dang sure using the impreza struts, k-car springs, and neon tops will work fine, and you may not even have to cut the strut shaft.

Or, if l-body front springs fit the impreza strut, OR if you go coilovers, you can keep your l-body strut tops with no mods other than cutting the strut shaft.

If you wait for someone to do it, it may be a while.. Why not be the first? If it dont work for you, someone will buy the AGXs off you anyway

[TheCanadian007]

Hmmm, I suppose I'll look around and see when I have some spare funds laying around. I have new upper strut mounts and good Shelby springs so I'd be using L-body springs and strut mounts.

I'll let you know if and/or when I pick them up!

[janus]

any news on all this? no-one ready to play the guinea pig so far right?

[shayne]

i was looking at an application printout for the koni sport adjustable struts, i have been eyeing up the ones for the rear of a fox body mustang or a third or fourth gen f-body(camaro/firebird) i wonder if the valving would be too stiff overall or if it would be in the ballpark. in both cases it would appear as though at least the lower mount would bolt up.

[Jack's Dodge]

Well this was a good read. Have a 97 coupe that coupe use a drop from sport springs. Have blown koni up front, and good rear koni.

Thought I scored big when I found 2.5 sets of koni struts in the junk yard last summer.

Seeing as neon struts are pretty similar to shadow/omni struts, these could be the new koni struts.

Was planning on using shadow spindles anyhow. Off to the yard for final comparisons

[Vigo]

Well as has been discussed, 1g neon struts are too short for either K or Ls unless you want to be REALLY slammed and run a high spring rate. When i had 1g neon struts on my aries i could bottom out the k-frame and the pans in certain situations, and i couldnt drive over anything on the highway. A soda can on its side was about as much as i could clear. Anything bigger i would drag down the road with me.

[Jack's Dodge]

Even better.

That being said, I should get a bit more strut compression, without raising the car. In theory anyway. These should go nicely with lowering springs. Will get pic up when done.

[Shadowv4l]

some questions were raised on this topic

[Vigo]

Could you specify the questions?

[Force Fed Mopar]

some questions were raised on this topic

Could you specify the questions?

I was wondering what strut cartridges fit the stock housings

[Shadowv4l]

I was wondering what strut cartridges fit the stock housings

KONI
Price: $203.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: In Stock
Manufacturer Part #: 8610-1351SPORT
These

[Force Fed Mopar]

KONI
Price: $203.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: In Stock
Manufacturer Part #: 8610-1351SPORT
These

Yeah I know, I was answering the other guy's question, not asking another lol. I did actually re-read this thread (read most of it a long time ago, but forgot it).

[Shadowv4l]

Yeah I know, I was answering the other guy's question, not asking another lol. I did actually re-read this thread (read most of it a long time ago, but forgot it).

KONI
Price: $203.00 (each)
Estimated Availability: In Stock
Manufacturer Part #: 8610-1351SPORT
These

[Force Fed Mopar]

lolz...

[Username]

If anyone still checks this thread, would just using the subies top plates to mount to our towers be an issue, that way no material removal on the top of the rod is necessary.For example, would it be putting the strut out of the operating range it was designed for, or is that not an issue with the AGX's?

[x.Gen]

got me curious...looked for specs on the mounts, non-existant. although the bolt spacing might be correct, it almost looks like the flange might be too deep (for the tower) on the Subie mounts, but it is just a guess from the few images out there. hope someone with access to a Subie (or the mounts) chimes in!

[Vigo]

It would be the same deal as people who have used the neon strut tops in the k-cars.. definitely re-drill the 3 bolt holes and probably enlarge the center hole. If you are willing to do that it's entirely feasible.

[Shadowv4l]

i would think drilling the strut towers out would be more work than just grinding down the shaft. I say this because obviously the entire shaft isnt used because you cant compress the spring enough to reach the top of the shaft. If you are looking for a "do it yourself" approach to having the top of the shaft turned down I would just tape up the lower section of the shaft, cover the seal, and pull out the grinding wheel and go to town using a strut mount as a "does it fit yet?" tool. HAHA
Also if you were to drill the strut towers out you wouldnt be able to use the TD strut bars (unless you drill them too) and im not sure the width of a Subaru bar would be able to be adjusted enough. Just seems like added work to me.
Oh and BTW my struts are still holding up to this day and im still enjoying the results, they seem to be able to handle the FAT 3.0L that sits in the nose. After all the adjustments ive done i think i have the koni's turned up 1/2 way, feels like the best spot for a mix of everyday driving and bridge jumping.

[Vigo]

i would think drilling the strut towers out would be more work than just grinding down the shaft. I say this because obviously the entire shaft isnt used because you cant compress the spring enough to reach the top of the shaft. If you are looking for a "do it yourself" approach to having the top of the shaft turned down I would just tape up the lower section of the shaft, cover the seal, and pull out the grinding wheel and go to town using a strut mount as a "does it fit yet?" tool. HAHA

Thats exactly what i did to put the SRT4 springs and struts in my dynasty with stock strut tops. I just used a bench grinder.

[Vigo]

i would think drilling the strut towers out would be more work than just grinding down the shaft.

Well now that i've drilled out some k-car strut towers to fit neon strut tops and thus have now done it both ways..

IMO drilling out the strut tower and redrilling the 3 holes is easier than grinding down the strut shafts. Especially because you dont have to do it over and over again if you want to try different struts.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post795051