How to install Adj Cam Gear on 8v 2.5 Turbo

[Blue Iroc R/T]

How do you install a Adj. Cam Gear on a 92, 2.5 Turbo. (Stage 5 Calibration)? What degree do you set on the cam gear before installing? 0 Deg.?
Got all ready to start my sons 93 Daytona with a 2.5 Turbo, A568. It fired up almost immediately, ran for 30 seconds (sounded good) then died and won't re-start. It seems like a timing problem to me. Turns over good, and plugs are wet, but not firing. The dist. timing has not been moved since it previously ran before changing; Turbo, Injectors to +40, went to 3 bar map, FWDP Stage 5 Cal, & Alky injection.

Thanks for any help.

[GLHNSLHT2]

take the cam gear out and put the stocker back in and see if it starts up.

[chilort]

0* would be the best place to start since that should be the stock setting. I couldn't see pulling it back off and putting the stocker back on (been wrong before though). You might want to make sure the timing belt didn't slip around at all while it was running (i.e. timing belt too loose).

[1990 shadow vnt]

I have one installed and its nothing but trouble.
Came loose. Retorqued to spec and used locktite.
Came loose again.
My plugs were wet too!
Im putting stock one back on.

[turbovanman²]

How did you do it? Slip and slide? It could be the int gear jumped.

I would just redo it, set the crank to TDC, remove the dist, and look at all the marks, if not lined up, slide off the cam gear, move the int shaft with a large screwdriver to its correct spot, then put the cam gear back on in the correct spot and your done. Set the gear at 0 and start playing.

[BadAssPerformance]

+1 best to double check all the timing marks are zeroed in.

[Blue Iroc R/T]

Thanks for all the replys. We fired it up at 11pm last night and we were very tired. I planned on rechecking all the marks today. But I knew that the adj. timing gear was something in question, so I thought I'd post a question last night, so maybe I missed something obvious.
On the Adj. Cam Gear; What do you use as a mark for setting the cam to TDC? This gear doesn't have a oval slot like on the stock gears. We installed this a few MONTHS ago, so I am not exactly sure how/what we did. I think we aligned the "0" to 12 O'Clock. Seems like we laid the stocker on top of the Adj. to compare the markings and went from there. I think I am just going to re-chack everything.
It sure seems like timing is our problem. Plugs are firing. But plugs are wet. Tells me the plugs are not firing at the proper time. But it did start and ran for 30 seconds, so maybe like was suggested, In Slipped.
Thanks everyone, I'll post when I find out what went wrong.

[t3rse]

Just get the keyway to point where the indicator should be (vertical with the motor)

[Blue Iroc R/T]

Well, we checked the timing and every one was spot on. The dist. timing had not been touched since previously running. Decided to hook up a STOCK computer to see if that would start it and narrow it down to possibly the new Stage 5 Cal. Got the stock ECU hooked up and it fired right off. Ran it for two or 3 minutes, then shut it down and swapped back the Stage 5. It Fired right up. Ran rough for a minute or two then smoothed out and ran fine. Just glad to have it back on the road after a year and a half setting in my garage. I think the dist. timing is off a little with the new set-up, but we can handle that, a whole lot better than having a bad ECU.
Thanks to everyone for the help.

[Blue Iroc R/T]

Does a T-III fly wheel have a Timing Slot on the O.D. like the 2.5 Fly Wheels? When checking the dist. timing, I do not see any mark anywhere in the timing window. I have advanced it and retarted it and No Mark/slot visible. I was wondering, since this car has a T-III fly wheel and a hole for the crank sensor (small spline A568 tranny), maybe there is no timing mark. IF NOT, any suggestions for accurately setting the ignition timing?

[cordes]

I would rotate the motor around to see if there is one on there. I don't know if the TIIIs had them or not, but it's easy to check.

[Blue Iroc R/T]

I would rotate the motor around to see if there is one on there. I don't know if the TIIIs had them or not, but it's easy to check.

Ran out of time for tonight. That is what we are planning on doing tomorrow. Just thought I would ask to see if anyone here had the answer. Thanks for the reply Cordes.

[cordes]

Ran out of time for tonight. That is what we are planning on doing tomorrow. Just thought I would ask to see if anyone here had the answer. Thanks for the reply Cordes.

I hear you on that one. It's much easier to ask on the board when there might be 20 people on here at any given time who may know than it is to start investigating when it's getting late outside.

[black86glhs]

The few I have seen didn't have a mark, but I'm no 16V expert.

[Blue Iroc R/T]

I don't think the T-III flywheels can have a timing slot like the 2.5's because the slot could screw up the crank sensor. I am just going to bring it to TDC, mark the flywheel at "0" in the window with a white marker and go from there. That should get it. Thanks for the replys.

[Blue Iroc R/T]

Well, Ignition timing was the problem. After setting TDC, I marked the fly wheel, then proceeded to set timing. After getting it set to 13BTDC, I ran fairly good. Now, it needs to be driven some to let the New FWDP ECU learn. We went for a drive last night and WOW, it was AWESOME. Mark was taking it easy most of the time. Then getting on the Interstate, he punched it and it went to 20# boost and totally planted me in the seat. I thought the G-Force was going to make my smile wrap all the way around my head. The Alky injection kicked in at just over 8# boost and went to full injection at 15#. He doesn't have the Cryo 2 on the intercooler hooked up yet. But he will get that done this week, before SDAC.
Here are some pics of the Stage 5 Set-up: http://www.pbase.com/rmscott/stage_5_setup

[Keito]

Ralph,

On the computer issue, it could be when you installed the Stage 5 computer, the pins wern't making good contact.
When you reinstalled it, they were.
I've seen this on my GLHT logic module, it will actually run rough and I'll wiggle the connector and it will smooth out.
My wiring harness was bought brand new from the dealer in the early
2000's, don't remember the year, so it's not corroded and the computer is clean.