Having Troubles

[Boost_Virgin]

Okay, I got the beast back from the shop. The shop put my new engin in. After they got the engin in the tranny would not shift out of gear. I had them replace the stock clutch (that was working) with a new 4-puck. They worked on it for 3 days and still could not get it to disengage fully. You could start the car, but if you did not hold the brake the car would move. So I thought they screwed something up when they put the tranny in. Got the tranny pulled today. The clutch and pressure plate looked like it was installed correctly. So now whay do I do. I don't want to put the tranny back in just to have the sam problem. Also I noticed that the new clutch is thinner than the old wore out one. Is that okay? The only thing I can come up with is it needs a new clutch cable. Anybody have any tips? Anything I should double check before putting the tranny in? My car is a 91 Spirit RT.

[Boost_Virgin]

I think I figured out what happened exacly. So try to follow the long story, and if people think I'm right I will add it to my car domain page.

Okay the Spirit R/T has been down for months getting the engin rebuilt. Before the rebuild the car shifted fine. I could tell the clutch was needing replaced, but it shifted fine. So a shop installed the rebuilt engin and stock tranny with a new clutch. The tranny would not shift out of gear, and the car would roll when the clutch was pushed in. If that was not bad there was a horrable sound when you pushed the clutch in. While the engin was out the flywheel got turned, and an new clutch and pressure plate installed. The new clutch was a HIPO 4 puck clutch with stock TIII pressure plate. If you compair the 2 the new clutch is about 1/16" thinner than the used up stock clutch. Plus the new clutch is bowed, but you can bearly see it. So at this point I get a car back with about $3000 worth of parts in the engin and the tranny will not shift.

The shop tells me they will take the tranny out and inspect everything at my cost. At that point I get a trailer and haul it home. I started pulling the tranny (see all my other threads last week.) I get it out and everything looks okay. That is when me and my brother start compairing everything. Oh by the way I tried adjusting everything before the tranny came out. It all seemed to be working fine. Okay tranny is out and we still can not find a problem. Here is what I think happened.

The cable might be orginal. I don't know. I worked with the stock clutch because it was thicker, but at the same time the adjuster was already adjusted all the way. So the cable is streached, and the adjsuter can not adjust any more. When the new clutch combo got installed there was no more adjustment to make up for the flywheel being turned, and the thinner clutch. That is why the tranny was hanning in gear. The reacket I heard was the 4 puck with the tiny bow in it hitting the flywheel in 4 places.

So dose this sound right? Please tell me if it's not. The tranny is still out of the car, and I can try something else. I think a clutch cable will do the job. The moral of the story is if you put a 4 puck HIPO clutch also do the clutch cable.

Does anybody have the tq specs for the pressure plate? Can you post them here please?

[looneytuner]

New cables and if it still doesn''t release, the clutch LEVER slips off. You can install the new cable, set the adjuster for loosest setting, pull lever and reattach. If that doesn't work My Daytona Z runs great. Even trade........

[turbovanman²]

Sounds about right. Also, check with a transmission shop, you can buy shims that go between the flywheel and crank to make up for the machining on the flywheel.

[Boost_Virgin]

Cool thanks for the advice. I just want to drive it. My brother got a 1985 turbo 300zx. My car has not run since he got his. I am needing to show him som Dodge power!

[Boost_Virgin]

Okay I'm back. The tranny will be going back in this weekend. Will compair cable lengths tonight. I have a new cable going in. Is there anything eles that I can do to make sure this solves the problem? The car has not been drove since Dec. 20, 2005. I put all the money into the engin, and now I just want to enjoy it.

[turbovanman²]

It depends on how much material has been taken off the flywheel. If alot, I would put a new one in or shim it as I described earlier, also, with the thinner clutch disc, its going to really throw out your clutch pedal. I would shim the flywheel at least 1 1/16.

[Boost_Virgin]

It depends on how much material has been taken off the flywheel. If alot, I would put a new one in or shim it as I described earlier, also, with the thinner clutch disc, its going to really throw out your clutch pedal. I would shim the flywheel at least 1 1/16.

Holly smokes! If I shim it 1 1/16" I don't think my crank sensor will read the flywheel. Don't forget that the TIII gets a crank trigger output for the flywheel. The problem is I don't know how much was taken off.

[turbovanman²]

Sorry, typo, 1/16,

[Boost_Virgin]

That is what I was thinkng, but wanted to double check. Thanks for the help.

[Boost_Virgin]

Okay I just got the tranny with new clutch cable installed. I don't have the racket anymore, but the clutch is still not fully disengageing (sp?). No racket at all. Clutch in or out. The shifter fork arm is moving, but it still seems to not let go of the clutch. When I try to put the tranny in rev. it grinds, and it will not go into 1st at all. I can get it into all the other gears. It is hard, but I can get it to shift into 2nd - 5th. When I let the clutch pedle out it dose not start moving the car until the top of the travel. I'm going nuts trying to get this car on the road. I'm guessing it has to do with the auto adj. My brother took it apart and put it back together. I don't have anyway to doulbe check this. Dose somebody have pics or really good exploded view?

Turbovanman: No I did not shim the flywheel. No tranny shops in the area.

Looneytuner: I will try the arm tonight.

[turbovanman²]

Shim the cable at the clutch release lever.

[Boost_Virgin]

Shim the cable at the clutch release lever.

Okay I tryed that. I have about 3/4" - 1" worth of washers stuck on the transmission side of the cable. Still doing the same thing. The adjuster spring (the spring that goses from the peddle to the plastic rachet) is pulled supper tight. It still will not let go of the clutch. I have a new adjuster coming in from the dealer today. I don't think it will help, but the old one is 14 years old. This way I have replaced everything from the flywheel to the peddle.

Has anybody ever seen a brand new pressure plate be bad? I have not ever seen this happen, but I know no mfg can run 0% scrap. That is unless they 100% inspect all items leaving there door. I don't know what else it could be. I guess I get to become a pro at pulling trannies.

Loonytuner: I tryed rotating the arm, but mine is keyed to go on only one way.

[turbovanman²]

Never ever seen a bad pressure plate.

[Boost_Virgin]

Never ever seen a bad pressure plate.

Okay I will be calling around today to find the shims you were talking about. I need help with some ref. info. I need to find out what a stock flywheel thickness is. I'm talking about the distance from the surface where the flywheel bolts to the crack (back) to the surface the clutch makes contact with (front). Please give me a decimal dimension.

Also if sombody has a Spirit R/Ts sitting there can you measure how far the clutch arm (on the tranny) travels? I would like to double check mine is moving as much as it's suppose to. Last but not least can you get a few pics of the throw out bearing mounted on the clutch forks? I am 99% sure everything is right, but I need this info to be 100% sure.

Thanks for everybodys help. I know I have been asking alot of questions. I will get my beast back on the road with your help.

[turbovanman²]

I'll get you the part numbers for the shims. PM me to remind me.