the car is an 87 Shelby Charger with a TII conversion. GLHS electronics, whenever i floor the car it comes to a stop kind of. like the gas pedal just turns off and the car will just coast until i let off. out of boost i can probably take the car to redline, but not in boost. i have swapped MAP sensors, TPS, LM, coil, FPR. dunno what else to check. so ask away
thanks
does it sputter or have trouble when in wot? or it does absolutly nothing?
Have you check fuel pressure and volume?
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checked fuel pressure, do i check volume? pinch the return line? i wouldnt say the car sputters, more like it doesnt do anything
pinched return line, 100 psi.
I got code 53 logic module fault. So I changed the lm and unplugged the batt. Same code appeared.
My old daytona did the same thing. turns out the cat was clogged and the extra exhaust would choke the engine out when i tried to go into boost. out of boost it drove just fine.
I cut the cat off. I suspected that too
What kind of airbox/hose arrangement you got going on? The soft rubber hose that leads to my airbox was actually sucking itself shut under heavy demand... That was a tough one to figure out, I chased everything from fule pressure to ignition
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Do you have access to a diagnostic tool? DRB II perhaps? Is this a new problem or has this problem been there since the conversion? Have you changed out the HEP (distributor sync) yet? One side of it is boost related. Make sure you have a turbo distributor and HEP in the car. The turbo distributors have a square window in one of the metal vanes underneath the HEP. Turbo HEP's have two connectors (gray and black). After 22 years of previous owners, nothing would surprise me.
Todd
Also if the car has a underhood MAP sensor make sure it has part # in red. that is the turbo (2 bar) MAP.
Last edited by 4 l-bodies; 04-18-2009 at 07:34 PM. Reason: added info
Thats fine.Originally Posted by CSX153
Chipped ECM's set that code.
What boost are you running?
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
had a similar problem with my car. I think it ended up being the coil actually, which was weird. But you could give it a shot
Coil has been changed. Lm is not chipped, mopar computer. Tii conversion was done 5 years ago, problem is new. I have a snapon scanner is that counts as a diagnostic tool. Usually it ran 14 lbs, now it won't even hit 2 lbs.
So both LM's give you a code 53??? If so, triple check powers and grounds and if good, then I would say, wow, you've got 2 bad LM's which would explain the lack of power in boost.
This happened suddenly or gradually, have you done any recent work? checked cam/ig timing?
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
cam/ig timing is good. The problem was gradual. Two bad LM's doesn't seem likely but it's possible I guess.
i had 2 similar problems with my t2. 1) i had a timing light up on the cam gear and the cam was 1 tooth retarded. for some reason i double checked the timing but i actually found it with the timing light. but that wouldnt explain the gradual change. 2) i had a fuel filter maxi pad that was completely filled with rust and it did the same thing, gradually.
travis
does it do it at part throttle boost? or is it just at WOT? a TPS code will shut the car down in boost and above a certain throttle position and rpm, and the car won't resume till either you let off the throttle and get out of boost, or the rpms come down below 2grand. It's actually kind of fun to drive around that way if you have a grainger valve because it acts like a 2 step rev limiter. You just have to short shift the hell out of it.
part throttle, it will rev all the way up i think. but as soon as i got wot, the car slows down. i changed the tps once tho
I had the same problem with my car years ago and it did the exact same thing. It turned out to be the HEP.
If you have a spare, swap it out and see.
changed hep
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