What benefit would i get from upgrading to a .63 housing on a stock T2 garrett running @18psi?
If there is a link with the answer just post it here.
-John
What benefit would i get from upgrading to a .63 housing on a stock T2 garrett running @18psi?
If there is a link with the answer just post it here.
-John
You'll be able to get more top end power. Downside is the boost threshold will be a little higher.
Unless you're running autocross, the .48 housing sucks. I will never run the .48 again as long as I can. The 8 valve cars suffer enough from top end HP, the .48 chokes it off even more. I run the .63 stage 3 turbine on my car nowwhich has a 2.5, full boost around 3400 RPM which is extremely good for the stage 3. On my daytona I had a 2.2, a super 70 with .63 stage 1 I had full boost around 3000-3200 RPM but thats a 2.2 so not quite as much exhaust going through there.
Ported manifolds and a ported head really help spoolup. If I put a stock T2 turbo on my setup I have now I would have full boost before 2000 rpm probably whereas a mostly stock engine it might be in the higher 2000's.
I dont know you all by name, but thanks for the feedback
"Ported manifolds and a ported head really help spoolup. If I put a stock T2 turbo on my setup I have now I would have full boost before 2000 rpm probably whereas a mostly stock engine it might be in the higher 2000's.""
This sounds promising, as I have the TU hybrid header and ported head.
If it helps the car is an automatic 2.2.
"You won't get boost as soon as you would with the smaller housing. I really like the .63 housing, especially in a 2.5. I honestly think that any decent setup would actually benefit from the larger housing since traction becomes such an issue so quickly."
So even with an auto, traction will be an issue?
If that's the situation, i will def go with the .63
Anyone have back to back dyno or track info from a housing swap?
You'll definatley move the powerband up. I had a T3/T4, 50 trim, stage 1 with a .48 housing and it spooled fast, very fast. I honestly didn't find it an issue around town as I only ran 12-14 psi on the street and then I blew the motor taking out the turbo so only had a month or so with it. My setup was mostly stock with a small IC and stock ex manni so to do it again, I would go .63 housing, just from all the turbo's and stuff I have run. If I wasn't racing, then I would leave the .48 on, better for city driving.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I've found that the ported parts make up for the slower spooling of the .63.....it's like still spooling like stock only making a lot more top end power! With the stage 1, the stock T2 turbo with the .63 is fine on any setup even on a stock engine you will make more upper RPM power. Simon, with a 50 trim and the .48, spoolup is still dramatically slower than that of a stock T2 turbo with the .63 housing bolted on because the wheel is so much heavier.
Agreed, thats why if I used that combo again, I'd wouldn't change it,
My last setup had a ported head with +1mm valves, ported 2 piece, log header, T3/T4, stage III wheel, .63 and 50 trim comp wheel and it was a bit laggy around town but liveable. A stage II wheel would have been much better but I knew when I got it, I was going 16 valve. Who knew I'd destroy that turbo too,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
So let me ask this. I just got my T2 turbo back from a rebuilder , (It wasnt bad when I sent it out) I had a Thunder coupe comp wheel (60mm) installed and the housing machined to fit it, I plan on running a .63 and was told a stage 1 would be best would any of you suggest a different stage?
2.2 P&P'd
exhaust, 2 pc, and head
1mm OS valves
and just in case I have a full 3" exhaust
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
The ford compressor wheel is a 60 trim T3, all T3's have the same exducer - 60mm. Only the inducer changes. Stock turbo is a 50 trim, 42 mm inducer. The 60 trim has a 45 mm, and a super 60 has a 48.5mm inducer. Any T3 turbo you are going to want the stage 1 wheel, only when you get into hybrids do you want stage 2 or 3. The compressor of any T3 simply doesn't produce enough air to support such a large turbine, it would be extremely laggy and not make much more power. The super 70 is the only possible exception, because I'm not even sure if it really is a T3 because it has a 70 mm exducer, but some people have tried the stage 2 with it and it was OK. I ran a super 70 with .63 stage 1 in my daytona and liked it a lot, and it sounds like your setup is extremely similar to my daytona's.....2.2, ported everything, 2 pc, 3'' exhaust, ETC.
moparzrule did you ever got your ford turbo to work?
Does anyone have a formula or personal experience in the power improvements of the .63 housing? I ask because I need to upgrade turbos and I'm trying to guess the power level to choose the best match for my car.
Yeah, she will spool faster but fall down up top. It will probably be a very fun street car with traction issues,
I would say rule of thumb is any upgraded turbo, IE T3/T4, go .63.
If your drag racing and trying to get the most out of your engine, do it.
Ported everything, get one.
Heavy car/van, get one.
If its a fairly stock setup and you plan the odd drag racing duty, then leave the stock turbo alone, housing wise.
Also, 2.5's tend to like the bigger housing better, from what I've read.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I was going to start my own thread on this, but I'll hijack this one instead.
The .63 housing is a given. I am going for nearing maximum power, but let's say I'm at about 300 crank hp now with the stock garrett. Now moving up to a hybrid turbo with a .63 housing, about how much of a gain can be expected?
Which hybrid? What stage wheel? A super 50 with the .63 stage 2 wheel would probably net you about 20-30 WHP no other changes over the stock T2 turbo....but expect some low end loss. Proper tuning is required due to the airflow changes to maximize HP and/or not melt a piston.
20-30 whp on just a turbo swap? wow.
I have no idea what stage wheel or any of the details because I haven't bought anything. Have you ran 20-30 whp difference before and after turbo swaps or just guessing?