daytona rear disc conversion

[JohnnyIroc]

my daytona has rear drums
in the knowledge center they only have mini van conversion
how would you convert drums to discs on a daytona?
do you use the same process or should i go to a junk yard for parts?

[A.J.]

You don't need to do it the way the mini vans are done. If you get the rear disc setups '89 and later, from the junk yard (rear disc spindles, calipers, brackets, master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc) it will all bolt up.

A.J.

[JohnnyIroc]

alright cool thanks

[turbovanman²]

Earlier years work too. What front setup does your car have now?

[chilort]

There's two different rear setups that I've been told work from a LeBaron. There is the standard setup with a solid rotor and then there is a more heavy duty version with vented rotors. If I see a vented setup in the JY I'm likely to pull it even if I do nothing more than keep it all in a box for a few years. I just redid my drums and the car stops well enough for the idiots in the ATL. It would be nice though.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Use 89+ units only, the 87-88 setups suck because of their prop valve settings and the wedge type ebrake. Now you want to match the rears to the fronts, if you have 10" stockers then skip the discs. If you have 10 fronts with minivan calipers (SLH1) then go with the solid rear disc setup. You'll want the whole thing including the MC and prop valve. If you have the big 11" front's you'll want the big 11" vented rears as well. With MC and prop valve of course.

http://www.dempseybowling.com/shelby/slhpkgs.htm

[inmyshadow]

I'm in the process of upgrading my Shadow's brakes.

Right now I'm 10in front rotors, 60mm piston calipers, 24mm master cylinder and stock drums. A shoe failure the other day finally got me doing my 11in upgrade. After two years of sitting on the parts to boot.

You need to determine which level of brake upgrade is best for you. I had no choice, the stock brakes wouldn't stop my car. The heavier shadow convertible easily overpowers stock brakes. A few too many "oh crap" moments got me moving on upgrading.

First I tried more aggressive pads and 60mm calipers. Didn't help. A few years ago, there was a 91 daytona in the junkyard that just had a brake job. So I stripped all four corners, replacing all calipers, rear rotors and ebrake shoes. Replacing the calipers made it easier to paint all the parts.

The main reason why I ask what level of rear disk you want. Price out how much new parts are for 10 solid disc vs. 11in vented rear disk. I just paid 45 bucks a piece for 11in rotors.

The link is a great source to generate a parts list. I've used it in the past for a 60mm caliper upgrade for my 90 shadow es. Then I used the knowledge to test fit 60mm calipers from 91 newer cars. I didn't need caliper adapters when using/upgrading a 91+ car.

[turbovanman²]

^^Funny you say that as there is a snippet on Gary's site that rear disc brakes are unnecessary and merely a fashion statement,

I, many others and as you found out, truly beg to differ.

[GLHNSLHT2]

yea well The Pope and I were Banned from the FMML for saying that PT lifters are a performance upgrade.

[inmyshadow]

Gary is right sometimes. His cars and life has been geared towards drag racing. His opinion is based on his needs for less weight. My needs have mostly differ with his. My autocrossing and track events afford the trade off of added weight for better braking.


My previous 90 Shadow ES came with solid rear disc. I autocrossed that car for years without over powering the brakes. I went with 60mm cailpers and 24mm master cylinder because I needed a cailper. I never would have installed 11in brakes on that shadow. The added weight was worth it.

My current shadow is heavier and faster then last shadow. My convertible shadow weighs as much as my old daytona iroc. I experienced two "oh crap" moments. One after new front brakes. Second, after 60mm calipers,EBC GREEN pads, and EBC rotors.

Since I couldn't improve braking with 10in rotors, I had no choice but 11in brakes. This is why people need to understand their needs. Lighter cars are fine with 10in brakes. Some maynot want the higher maintenance with 11in brakes. Others might want to make a fashion statement. Me, I need the extra stopping power and to make a statement drums can't.

^^Funny you say that as there is a snippet on Gary's site that rear disc brakes are unnecessary and merely a fashion statement,

I, many others and as you found out, truly beg to differ.

[turbovanman²]

Gary is right sometimes. His cars and life has been geared towards drag racing. His opinion is based on his needs for less weight.

My previous 90 Shadow ES came with solid rear disc. I autocrossed that car for years without over powering the brakes. I went with 60mm cailpers and 24mm master cylinder because I needed a cailper. I never would have installed 11in brakes on that shadow. The added weight was worth it.

My current shadow is heavier and faster then last shadow. My convertible shadow weighs as much as my old daytona iroc. I experienced two "oh crap" moments. One after new front brakes. Second, after 60mm calipers,EBC GREEN pads, and EBC rotors.

Since I couldn't improve braking with 10in rotors, I had no choice but 11in brakes. This is why people need to understand their needs. Lighter cars are fine with 10in brakes. Some maynot want the higher maintenance with 11in brakes. Others might want to make a fashion statement. Me, I need the extra stopping power and to make a statement drums can't.

Sorry, I should have clarified, he didn't say it, he quoted one of the engineers who said they aren't necessary.

[Team Canada]

I just pulled a complete 11 inch vented setup from a 90 Daytona at the JY, including MC and prop valve to go onto my 89 Spirit.
Big thanks to TurboOmni08 (Jeff) for all of his advice Great guy!
The 11 inch look a lot beefier than the solid 10's.
Anybody know if the stock ebrake cables from the drums will work on the rear disc drums.

[JohnnyIroc]

i went to a few jys yesterday and all of the setups are so rusty and i really want to find a cleaner one or should i get a rotten one and clean it up? or should i still wait for a good clean one to come around

[A.J.]

I have sitting in my shed, RUST FREE solid rear disc set up including master cylinder and proportioning valve off an '89 Lebaron for $150 plus shipping if your interested.

I need your rear disc conversion to fund my vented rear disc conversion, if they're still there.

A.J.

[inmyshadow]

Cleaner is always better and cheaper. I found a pretty clean setup. I used my friend's media blaster on all the hardware I didn't buy new. I also bought new calipers because it was easier to clean those off for paint.

In the end of my 11in brake upgrade, new parts are:

Shadow Ebrake cables for rear disc
rear 11in rotors
front/rear calipers
front satisfied pads from tirerack
ebrake shoes
wheel bearing, all the brake hard would have to come anyways. No sense in doing it twice.

The used parts were front rotors, rear brake pads, all the adapters, and ebrake small hardware. I had forgetting the ebrake shoes I had in storage, that would have saved me 37 bucks.

If you do the swap and use proper planning, the cost shouldn't be too bad. If my shadow hadn't made me do the upgrade, I could have saved maybe 20 or 30 bucks if I used rockauto.

later

i went to a few jys yesterday and all of the setups are so rusty and i really want to find a cleaner one or should i get a rotten one and clean it up? or should i still wait for a good clean one to come around

[Juggy]

I have sitting in my shed, RUST FREE solid rear disc set up including master cylinder and proportioning valve off an '89 Lebaron for $150 plus shipping if your interested.

I need your rear disc conversion to fund my vented rear disc conversion, if they're still there.

A.J.

intersted in trading them for a 89 vented rear disk setup??


does anyone know the differences between the 89+ vented, and solid rear disk setup??? like can u just swap rotors/calipers/pads or is the mounting bracket different too? are all the e brake internals the same?

[A.J.]

Why would you want to trade vented for solid? Unless they are the e-brake in the caliper setup and not the e-brake in the rotor setup. And if that's the case then no. What car did they come off of?

As far as I know the vented and solid have the same bolt patten. Simon has the vented on his van I think. Paging Simon. Please report to the Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, Traction section.

A.J.

[Team Canada]

The 11 inch vented setup I got for my Spirit has the 5 x 100 bolt pattern, but I think the solid and the vented use a different caliper mount as it needs the extra 1/2 inch to clear the rotor.

I'll be doing my complete 4 wheel disk upgrade as soon as the snow melts here and I get my car out from under the cover in the garage. I will post a complete series of pics and what I needed to do to the car (like get the drum to disk brake hoses switched over).

[JohnnyIroc]

I have sitting in my shed, RUST FREE solid rear disc set up including master cylinder and proportioning valve off an '89 Lebaron for $150 plus shipping if your interested.

I need your rear disc conversion to fund my vented rear disc conversion, if they're still there.

A.J.

could i swap vented disc onto this setup?

[Juggy]

Why would you want to trade vented for solid? Unless they are the e-brake in the caliper setup and not the e-brake in the rotor setup. And if that's the case then no. What car did they come off of?

As far as I know the vented and solid have the same bolt patten. Simon has the vented on his van I think. Paging Simon. Please report to the Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, Traction section.

A.J.

all my stuff is from a 89 or 90 daytona. going to do the rear wheel disk conversion on my L body but id rather have the 89+ solid rotors for my application!