Break in oil? which one?

[pauly_no_van]

Dyno. Get it warmed up and then either find a side street, or dyno, don't keep idling it, you'll glaze them,

Hey turbovanman,

You have a lot of experience with these and have broken plenty of parts, (not an insult, the better mechanics are better because they break a lot of things IMO) so .....
Couple questions from a stupid pollock for clarification..
I am going out to do this today or tomorrow on a fresh rebuild.
Bought a turbo mini for $300. sans running motor.
I have a plated van I can borrow the front plate from
The motor should be warmed to operating temp. before break in, correct?
I have heard 20 miles for the first time, true?
Also, I have gone up to 1k and switched to synth, too early?

Thanks!


paul

[turbovanman²]

Hey turbovanman,

You have a lot of experience with these and have broken plenty of parts, (not an insult, the better mechanics are better because they break a lot of things IMO) so .....
Couple questions from a stupid pollock for clarification..
I am going out to do this today or tomorrow on a fresh rebuild.
Bought a turbo mini for $300. sans running motor.
I have a plated van I can borrow the front plate from
The motor should be warmed to operating temp. before break in, correct?
I have heard 20 miles for the first time, true?
Also, I have gone up to 1k and switched to synth, too early?

Thanks!


paul

Thanks, I think, lol.

Yep, the best scenario is fill with coolant, get it started, set timing, lower boost, I use the manifold to turbo hose setup, burp coolant, check for leaks, go do the 15-20 wot/chop method, change oil and filter, drive the bag off it. They say you can run synthetic after that but I prefer to wait 3000 miles so everything is nice and seated.

[Tony Hanna]

I can vouch for the rev it under load and back off break in method. When I first got my '04 Sportster, I followed the break in guidelines in the owners manual. I don't remember the exact procedure, but it involved taking it easy and not passing a certain mph depending on which gear. After a few thousand miles, it smoked like a stove. Took it to the dealer and they honed the jugs and replaced the pistons and rings under warranty. When I got it back, I beat the piss out of it. Second and third gear to the rev limiter and then off the gas quick letting the engine slow the bike back down. I spent the better part of an afternoon on some secondary roads doing that and then went to riding it normally the next day. It's run perfect and hasn't smoked a bit since then.

[turbovanman²]

I can vouch for the rev it under load and back off break in method. When I first got my '04 Sportster, I followed the break in guidelines in the owners manual. I don't remember the exact procedure, but it involved taking it easy and not passing a certain mph depending on which gear. After a few thousand miles, it smoked like a stove. Took it to the dealer and they honed the jugs and replaced the pistons and rings under warranty. When I got it back, I beat the piss out of it. Second and third gear to the rev limiter and then off the gas quick letting the engine slow the bike back down. I spent the better part of an afternoon on some secondary roads doing that and then went to riding it normally the next day. It's run perfect and hasn't smoked a bit since then.

What happened to you is exactly what the Motune guy says happens,

[Tony Hanna]

What happened to you is exactly what the Motune guy says happens,

Right. I ran across his site when all that was going on. I don't remember if I ran across it Googling or if maybe I posted to the board about the problem and you posted the link, or it might have been somebody on the XL forum... Anyhow, I can say from real experience that his method works.

[RoadWarrior222]

It's also more or less what all the Haynes manuals all recommend in the engine rebuild section.

[neongary]

Yes, I already stated that, we DON'T have flat tappet cams, the issue doesn't affect us one bit unless your running the old slider cam, then it could be an issue.





Chop the gas, let off the loud pedal now, this creates a vacuum and pulls oil up to lube the rings. Then when you hammer it, the rings are forced back out again.

I know that we don't have flat tappet cams, genius. The highlighted area was to point out that the extra zinc additive is also beneficial to hydraulic cammed engines too. Then you go on to say that it could be a issue if someone is running a slider cam. Can you make up your mind?

[turbovanman²]

I know that we don't have flat tappet cams, genius. The highlighted area was to point out that the extra zinc additive is also beneficial to hydraulic cammed engines too. Then you go on to say that it could be a issue if someone is running a slider cam. Can you make up your mind?

Ok, it won't be an issue, is that better?

And thanks for reposting what i already said earlier about flat tappet cams,

[pauly_no_van]

group hug.