2.4 sneak preview

[Austrian Dodge]

i'm going full 2.4 in the daytona, so i figured i'd post a couple infos here...

got the only 2.4 engine in austria that was available at a junkyard, luckily just a couple miles outside of vienna.
i could have bought longblocks from germany, belgium and the netherlands, but all were way over 2000€ and i didn't want to pay that much.

all in all i got a good deal (incl. alternator, P/S pump and intake + a couple connectors) that would equal a 2.4 in the US + shipping and duty fees.

i completely dissambled the engine at the junkyard to check if the bores and crank journals were OK. the lucky bastard i am, all the bores were perfect as were the journals -> all standard size. so i loaded up the car, and drove home with a complete '96 2.4 engine in the trunk

first i sandblasted the block and primed it with some epoxy primer (will prime a second time, after machining was done to the block), so it doesn't look very pretty but it's good and clean enough for test fitting and all that stuff.

already purchased a DOHC neon intake as a base for the custom intake, but after test fitting in the car, i decided to take the lower intake that came with the engine. it'll get cut and a plate welded to it, so i can port the heck out of it

the passenger side engine mount looks to be very simple, just needs a little welding and grinding here and there and the original daytona engine mount cut.
then again a little welding and grinding and it should be done...
i know it sounds easy, but it really isn't that complicated to fabricate an engine mount. i thought it would be a bigger PITA.

front engine mount? get one from a 2.4 caravan, bend it a little and you're done
it'll get some welds and metal for added strenght but it'll do the job

here are pics of the (i think very first) european 2.4 turbo daytona iroc

parts mess thats getting test fitted:


getting closer:


taking a highly professional measurement of were to probably cut the runners:


i like that tiny turbo behind the head, but it's so obvious


please excuse the bad quality, those are cell phone pictures

[jamesmonty]

That one intake looks familiar! Looks good, keep the picts coming.

[BadAssPerformance]

Looking good Andreas!

[MopàrBCN]

:he can't deny that he is austrian using the "red bull" measurment technique

[BadAssPerformance]

:he can't deny that he is austrian using the "red bull" measurment technique

LOL

[turbovanman²]

Another one see's the light,

[black86glhs]

Another one see's the light,

Both of you will learn it is just a train.

[Austrian Dodge]

:he can't deny that he is austrian using the "red bull" measurment technique

lol i love this stuff

and hey, when someone asks me "how long are your runners?" i can answer: just a redbull can

i've had some more progress in the last weeks...
pass engine mount is finished, i'll sandblast it and paint it, then i'll take pics.

front engine mount is in the works, as is the intake and the parts gathering


sadly i had to massacre an engine before i got enlightend

[glhs875]

I like it!! Should be a blast to drive when you get it going!!

[Austrian Dodge]

a lot has happened since the first mockup ...
mainly parths gathering, a lot of fabricating and machining.

the caravan front engine mount has been rewelded and modified:


the crankshaft has been keyed, so i can trigger my 60-2 wheel which will be mounted to an UDP without having to fear the pulley could turn over.


a plate has been welded on the intake runners, then ported and after that -> shiny new plenum originally i wanted a D-shaped plenum, but i had to go another route -> rectangular shape. this should also give me a tiny bit more volume.


passenger side IC end tank has been rewelded


this is how the engine was sitting a couple weeks ago...


with a rewelded, modified stock passenger side mount and a rewelded, CNC milled caravan mount


as described in another thread, i purchased some oil squirters and modified my block


PLUS a lot of other things have already been done:
- modifying the UDP with 60-2 trigger wheel
- head porting
- modifying the flywheel
- turbo lines

today i went to the machine shop and dropped off the whole engine
the complete rotating assembly will get balanced, 3° valve job for all new SS 1+mm oversized valves including a radius, and standard stuff like honing and decking...

and when time allowes i'll get the new wiring harness done next week

still a lot of work ahead, but it's getting done somehow

[1FastCSX289]

NICE.....keep the updates coming. Im in the process of doing my CSX with a 2.4. I actually just got done putting the crank in the motor. Im doing the rebuild stuff first, since I know the motor will fit......im just doing it all in one shot.

[TurboII]

cant you stroke it it to a 2.6 with a DCR kit!!

[turbovanman²]

Very nice,

Did you use velocity stacks? any pics of the inside of the intake?

[Reaper1]

Nice project from the other side of the pond!

[Austrian Dodge]

thanks for the compliments...
honestly a 2.6 is pointless. i had a hard time with traction in my 2.2l 8v, now it'll be like day and night difference in the 2.4l 16v -> 2.6l even worse.
so before doing that i'm converting to it RWD

no velocity stacks...i just ported funnels as good as possible
of course there's inside pics of the intake





now because i thought i had to get it running asap, i did this kind of intake...so basically i think of this as a Stage I

Stage II will be a little different, but i want to have a back to back comparison test...so it'll be go on there when the current setup is fully tuned! so someday in 2010

[turbovanman²]

Sweet, its nice to have a back to back test for stuff, I never get that chance, I break too much stuff then change too much stuff,

[BadAssPerformance]

moved

[Austrian Dodge]

a couple of things happened so i thought it might be worth to update the log a little bit.

i spent the last weekends pulling the interior and figuring out how the stock speed works.
from russ knize's site i already knew, that it pulses 8 times per rotation and 8000 times per mile.
well, sadly i had to fry a VSS to find out that the SBEC sends out 5V to the sensor and every rotation of the magnet inside they get shortened to ground.
i replaced the fancy $1.50 reed switch and did some more testing.

with the haltech e6x i still had the SBEC-II + the complete stock wiring harness, this time i wanted to get rid of every inch of the SBEC-II wiring.
i wasn't happy with the idea of shortening an output of the new haltech 8000 times per mile, so i had to find a way of supplying the VSS with 5V and 2mA.

piece of cake...$45 bucks later i came home with this:


put a 2.7kOhm resistor in line and tadaaaaaa speedo works -> who wants a '92 2.5T man. SBEC-II?


well, time to pull all of the SBEC-II harness





looks messed up, i know, but in fact ... well yeah it is, but honestly it's like LEGO (i don't know if thats as popular in the US like it is over here, so for those who don't know what this is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lego).

some of you guys know that i pulled the A/C years ago, now i thought it was about time to pull the A/C heater core.
i also wanted to clean up all the interior wires i put in over time for the gauges and stuff....the little side effect, there's more room to put in the new haltech wiring harness

interior mess



all the insulating material and the stock seats will get thrown out ...

[Reaper1]

So what's inside the magic black box and how'd you replaced the reed switch?

[Austrian Dodge]

basically its a voltage converter module which can be bought in any electronic store.
input voltage is max. 24V (either DC or AC)
and the output voltage can be adjusted anywhere from 1.5V to 20V (but only DC).

the VSS needs to be supplied with 5V and 2mA
white orange wire = 5V (this is also the speedo signal wire -> speedo just reads the pulses and displays speed with the needle)
black wire = GND

these are the wire colors of my VSS (92 daytona 2.5T man.), they may be different on other years.

so now you just need to figure out the right resistor: 5V / 0.002A = 2500 Ohm
well there's just a 2.2kOhm or 2.7kOhm resistor so i bought the 2.7kOhm one. soldered it in the 5V wire and voila - 5V and 2mA for the VSS.


how to replace the reed switch? easy, just open the sensor and you'll find the reed switch on the top part of the sensor (left side of the picture)


cut out and solder in new one. i replaced it with a 100V 1A unit (to be on the safe side, and not fry it again)