Rich's 87 GLHS SRT4/568 Engine Swap

[t3rse]

I've said that before...you can't put accessories in the back because of the frame rail. I was able to make everything fit with my custom passenger mount but things are still tight (there is no way to take the motor bracket off with the engine in the car). I wish I had swapped into a shadow....

[rbryant]

I've said that before...you can't put accessories in the back because of the frame rail. I was able to make everything fit with my custom passenger mount but things are still tight (there is no way to take the motor bracket off with the engine in the car). I wish I had swapped into a shadow....

From looking at things shifting the entire engine by 3/4" solves all of the accessory problems. I am able to get the stratus mounting bracket off with the engine in the car but it requires the front mount to be disconnected and to get the bolts out the engine has to be lowered for one bolt and jacked way up for the other.

The driver side mount ends up nearly against the rail on the drivers side but I am able to get a daytona axle in with about 1/3" of inward plunge which is pretty reasonable. If I have to I can always modify the driver side mount with an offset so that it doesn't hit the driver side rail.

For the rear accessory I still have the MR2 electric power steering pump and the bracket that bolts it to the SRT4 block. I am not sure if I will need to use it now though the PS pulley has about 3/8" of clearance after the offset.

The shadow is surely a much easier swap but I just like the charger better. I think it might be partly the challenge of it (I am sick and twisted that way).

-Rich

[A.J.]

Let me see what the axle guy I was working with can do.

I am hoping that there is a driver side shaft from a GM car that will be the right length. If there is then I can just use a regular daytona axle on the passenger side and the GM/Dodge hybrid shaft on the drivers side. That will be pretty cheap to have built.

If that doesn't work out I might talk to your guy. Thanks for the info and help!

-Rich

Ya, just let me know.

I had the axles in my van lengthened 1" on each side. Not by the people I'll be sending you to. I don't know what was up with my van. That's the problem with buying a vehicle for $50, with no drivetrain, and not knowing the history. For whatever reason they kept pulling apart. Ever since I got them lengthened an inch, I haven't had a problem. It wasn't too expensive either. I'd have to dig up the receipt.

A.J.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Hey rich, how much right steer are you going to have ?
Just picturing all the rub marks on the trans with wider tired and the trans in the stock location

[rbryant]

Hey rich, how much right steer are you going to have ?
Just picturing all the rub marks on the trans with wider tired and the trans in the stock location

Not sure yet. I will have to draw some diagrams to see how much it will matter.

I will also put a tire on with the engine shifted and see when it hits.

There are always compromises...

My initial thoughts were that the taller tires would be just as much of a problem than wider. The daytona comes with a 205/55/16 in some models which are over 1.5" taller so I am hoping that I will still be ok.

I guess it depends on where the tire hits the tranny.

-Rich

[contraption22]

So you are saying there is no room for a rear mounted alternator with this swap?

[rbryant]

So you are saying there is no room for a rear mounted alternator with this swap?

It doesn't fit for me without offsetting the engine. Once I do that I prefer the rear mounted PS. Surprisingly, the stock lbody PS line works with the stratus pump if you just slightly bend it.

Did ohiorob's car run any accessories? I can't see any in the pictures...

I solved the rear accessory problem with the electric PS setup but it was still pretty tight on the front side. I think it would be possible to run a v-belt AC/alternator setup if I had to though. The AC compressor form a 1G neon could be made to work along with some alternator and the 2.2/2.5l AC idler pulley and a 1G neon crank pulley....

V belts just look ancient though so the idea doesn't appeal to me. I am not sure if a 4 rib belt would clear things or not.

Anyway I will keep people posted on the tranny to tire clearance and if we can make an axle that short on the driver side without going full custom.

-Rich

[Turbo224]

Any updates on this project? I have been following closely.

[rbryant]

Any updates on this project? I have been following closely.

I should get the totally finished intake manifold back in the next couple of days. It now fits and clears everything. After that is installed I can finish wiring up the injectors, make a vacuum harness, etc.

The next big thing is that the engine has to be shifted to the driver side about half an inch in order for the accessories to clear things. That means a slight axle mod.

-Rich

[Turbo224]

What are your plans for your A/C condensor and intercooler on this car?

[Spycker]

i think ill do a 2.4 swap now.

[rbryant]

What are your plans for your A/C condensor and intercooler on this car?

It has a large front mount intercooler (I think it is 24x12x3).

It has an aftermarket AC condensor from ackits.com (small efficient crossflow for $75). The condensor will need new lines for the Stratus compressor but I haven't gotten to that yet. I used it with the 2.2 engine though and it worked well.

-Rich

[rbryant]

i think ill do a 2.4 swap now.

It is a lot of work.

The intake manifold is much tighter than you might think. Even with the super short runners I only clear the fan shroud by about 1/8".

It does look really nice in there though and should be very reliable.

I need to post up some pictures of my coil on plug setup this week...

-Rich

[Turbo224]

It has an aftermarket AC condensor from ackits.com (small efficient crossflow for $75). The condensor will need new lines for the Stratus compressor but I haven't gotten to that yet. I used it with the 2.2 engine though and it worked well.

-Rich

Is the condenser made for the Charger, or is it Universal? I want to do the SRT swap into an Omni, but I just don't think I could live without AC. I know there probably wont be enough room to squeeze it all in there unless I get super creative.

[rbryant]

Is the condenser made for the Charger, or is it Universal? I want to do the SRT swap into an Omni, but I just don't think I could live without AC. I know there probably wont be enough room to squeeze it all in there unless I get super creative.

Universal.

I have posted info on it before so you should be able to find it if you search for posts from me with "condenser" in them.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ight=condenser

-Rich

[Turbo224]

Universal.

I have posted info on it before so you should be able to find it if you search for posts from me with "condenser" in them.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ight=condenser

-Rich

That's a good thread, thanks for the link. It almost gives me hope for my project...

[rbryant]

Here are some new pictures.

I added a Coil on Plug plate with 2.7l charger coils and a plate that bolts to the side of the head to hold my catch can and wastegate actuator.


The plate is 1/4" thick so I could thread it with a M6 bolt in order to securely attach the coils via a 3/8" aluminum standoff. I made holes between the coils so that the wires can be tucked under the plate and exit on the driver side of the head. I added 4 individual coil drivers to my megasquirt but for now they are driven in batch fire mode.

I really just didn't like how close the SRT4 coil is to the exhaust manifold and I thought that a COP setup could work quite well.


Zoomed out to where you can also see the wastegate actuator bracket and catch can along with the finished (but not yet powdercoated intake manifold).


-Rich

[Mopar318]

Here are some new pictures.

I added a Coil on Plug plate with 2.7l charger coils and a plate that bolts to the side of the head to hold my catch can and wastegate actuator.


The plate is 1/4" thick so I could thread it with a M6 bolt in order to securely attach the coils via a 3/8" aluminum standoff. I made holes between the coils so that the wires can be tucked under the plate and exit on the driver side of the head. I added 4 individual coil drivers to my megasquirt but for now they are driven in batch fire mode.

I really just didn't like how close the SRT4 coil is to the exhaust manifold and I thought that a COP setup could work quite well.


Zoomed out to where you can also see the wastegate actuator bracket and catch can along with the finished (but not yet powdercoated intake manifold).


-Rich

Are you going to be running the MS3 or MSII with the sequential driver mod (Expensive!!)

Can you just run the Coil packs on batch fire? I thought about doing this. Do the 2.7 coils fit perfect?

The intake looks sweet BTW!

[turboshad]

I made holes between the coils so that the wires can be tucked under the plate and exit on the driver side of the head. I added 4 individual coil drivers to my megasquirt but for now they are driven in batch fire mode.

I really just didn't like how close the SRT4 coil is to the exhaust manifold and I thought that a COP setup could work quite well.

-Rich

That looks great Rich. If it were me I would slot those holes back to the plug hole so the connectors could slide through and plate could be removed. How much stand off do those coils give you when connected to the plugs? Is that an SRT4 head or just the VC?

I've been looking into COP this week as well. Have you see the jbperf boards? With the 4 channel board you would have the 4 drivers (which you already have) as well as ignition drivers for high impedance injectors. If you are running low impedance you can use the P&H board in conjunction. With the addition of a cam sensor input these two would allow the ability for sequential ignition and injection.

http://jbperf.com/quad_ign_inj/index.html

http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html

I have been using the P&H board from day one and will be building a cam circuit this winter to go sequential injection. As mentioned I would also like to look into a COP setup in which case I would purchase the other board.

Are you going to be running the MS3 or MSII with the sequential driver mod (Expensive!!)

Can you just run the Coil packs on batch fire? I thought about doing this. Do the 2.7 coils fit perfect?

The intake looks sweet BTW!

Why is it expensive to run MSII sequential? If it's just ignition he could already do it with the 4 drivers he has made. Just fire them off of spark A,B,C, and D. You would also need to use tuner studio.

Any coil could be run batch fire or wasted spark but you lose some of the benefit of a COP since you are sparking twice as often as you need to.

[Mopar318]

That looks great Rich. If it were me I would slot those holes back to the plug hole so the connectors could slide through and plate could be removed. How much stand off do those coils give you when connected to the plugs? Is that an SRT4 head or just the VC?

I've been looking into COP this week as well. Have you see the jbperf boards? With the 4 channel board you would have the 4 drivers (which you already have) as well as ignition drivers for high impedance injectors. If you are running low impedance you can use the P&H board in conjunction. With the addition of a cam sensor input these two would allow the ability for sequential ignition and injection.

http://jbperf.com/quad_ign_inj/index.html

http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html

I have been using the P&H board from day one and will be building a cam circuit this winter to go sequential injection. As mentioned I would also like to look into a COP setup in which case I would purchase the other board.



Why is it expensive to run MSII sequential? If it's just ignition he could already do it with the 4 drivers he has made. Just fire them off of spark A,B,C, and D. You would also need to use tuner studio.

Any coil could be run batch fire or wasted spark but you lose some of the benefit of a COP since you are sparking twice as often as you need to.

I wasnt sure how he built the megasquirt. When I was looking into the sequential mod, it was going to be close to 300 just for the parts.

Using the sequential injection kit and P/H board.

http://www.symtechlabs.com/catalog/m...s-c-23_35.html

I decided to go with a set of stage 2 SRT injectors so I didnt need a P/H board. I know there are a bunch of ways to set it up but I am not an electronics expert.

Edit: I didnt see that he said he already added the 4 coild drivers. My bad.