L-body steering rack replacement.

[Tbird232ci]

So when the weather breaks, I have the task of replacing the rack and pump in my 85 SC.

I've read the Haynes manual while on the pooper to get an idea of what I'm in for, and I've been on the forums reading. Most forum members say you need to drop the k-frame while the Haynes says it slides out from the left side.

Anyone have any experience? I want to know what I'm getting into.

[Anonymous_User]

Although it may slide out, dropping the K-frame is simple. Remove the four fasteners and lower it with the floor jack. Should provide ample access for the rack.

[Tbird232ci]

My problem is that I have the "while I'm in there syndrome". Every time I pull something apart, I have to improve it, and my budget doesn't allow.

Looks like I'll have to get ahold of Johnny at polybushings, and start sourcing some other parts

[85shelbycharger]

I would highly recommend dropping the k-frame for the new parts swap. Like what was stated already, dropping the k-frame only includes undoing four bolts/nuts, popping the tierods out of the spindle, and popping the two ball joints out of the spindle.

[contraption22]

Agreed. Drop the Kframe. It will make the job much eaiser. Of course, while you're at it you should replace your bushings if you haven't already.

[mock_glh]

You can leave the ball joints attached.

[supercrackerbox]

My problem is that I have the "while I'm in there syndrome". Every time I pull something apart, I have to improve it, and my budget doesn't allow.

If you hadn't planned to already, do take the time to replace the hoses while you're in there.

[Tbird232ci]

I figured it would be a good idea to replace hoses while it what all apart.

It needs shocks and struts, and strut mounts too, so it's becoming a big debate as to what I want to do, and what I can afford.

Might just use KYB's and maybe the LRE springs. Who knows.

[supercrackerbox]

I like the LRE springs on mine. I might end up cutting half a coil or so off the fronts, I need to see how it sits with the new wheels and tires first.

[iTurbo]

In addition to dropping the K-frame I would also remove the roll pin holding the steering column to the U-joint coupler and remove the steering column too (easy). It's much easier to align that stuff after the K-frame is reinstalled than trying to align everything while the K-frame goes up.

[Anonymous_User]

In addition to dropping the K-frame I would also remove the roll pin holding the steering column to the U-joint coupler and remove the steering column too (easy). It's much easier to align that stuff after the K-frame is reinstalled than trying to align everything while the K-frame goes up.

I've never pulled the roll pin in order to pull the column. The u-joint stays on the column.