no-start issue with no codes

[mcglsr2]

okay guys, i need some help with a no-start issue. i'm having trouble pinpointing the issue, which is kind of embarassing since it's a hard no-start and should be [relatively] easy to find.

the car is an 87 shelby csx. the car cranks but will not start. there is no spark. did a compression test and got good numbers across all 4 cylinders. i can smell fuel on the spark plugs, and when i turn the key to accessory, i hear the FP turn on. so i think it's just a no-spark issue. also, no codes from the computer, all i get is a 55. i used a multimeter to check the voltage to the coil while cranking, i saw 10.5v. even though there was no spark, i saw voltage. granted, i don't trust my multimeter, so i bought a new quality one. i also checked the timing, the sprocket, deg mark on the tranny and the slots in the oil gear/intermediate shaft are all lined up properly. the car died on the highway. i was cruising along at like 3k rpms, maybe 1psi of boost if even that, the car hitched on me (like a fuel cut out but i was no where near any condition that would cause that) then just shut down. i coasted to the side of the highway. it hasn't started since.

here are the things i think that could be bad, and what the state of each item is/what i have done with them so far:

• bad coil - i have a new coil in the car.
• bad HEP - new one. i have a spare one that i think is good, i swapped them and no change, car still didn't start.
• bad power module - brand new. just got it from napa.
• bad rotor/distributor cap
• bad or loose reluctor/pickup plate in the distributor
• bad plug wires - these are not that old, and quality wires from fwdp. also, it would mean ALL 4 wires went bad at the same time, not very likely.
• fouled spark plugs - they look really good, nice and tan.
• bad wire from distributor cap to coil

these are the things i am going to check tonight when i get home from work. it will be just me, so i can't do anything yet that invloves cranking the car and checking something under the hood simultaneously.

• re-check voltage to the coil while cranking - i can do this because i can set up my new meter to read and hold while i crank, then go check the meter.
• check/verify all fuses under the dash
• swap out coil with old one
• unplug HEP and check for code 54 - this is to make sure my socketed LM will throw codes
• swap LM to original factory one
• check for any codes
• check pickup plate in distributor for looseness
• exmaine cap for carbon tracks or cracks
• check/swap out rotor
• check/swap out wire from distributor to coil - i still have the old wire i can use as a test
• check hep harness for proper voltages

some other thoughts - even though the timing appears to right on, it's possible the car is lying to me. i've had serious issues in the [recent] past with the intermediate shaft and oil pump gears getting chewed up on me and totally screwing my timing. its possible that even though things look like they are lined up, maybe they aren't? i do have trouble believing this though, as if it were off a couple degrees, it should still at least start and idle very rough. but i don't even get that. i get nothing. no start at all. timing would have to be way off for that to happen, and things just look to close for that to be the case...

any of you guys out there have any idea what might be going on?

[turbovanman²]

Ok, when checking the timing belt timing, don't use the marks so to speak. Set up the crank at TDC, then check the cam sprocket and remove the dist cap and see where the rotor is pointing-should be aprox 11 oclock. Best is to remove the dist and see if the slot is paralell with the block.

If thats ok, I would just use the coil wire and check for spark, if no spark, then check the coil wire. If ok, then I would assume its a bad coil or LM/PM as you said they are Napa stuff and alot of reman stuff isn't the greatest quality, ask me how i know,

[mcglsr2]

Ok, when checking the timing belt timing, don't use the marks so to speak. Set up the crank at TDC, then check the cam sprocket and remove the dist cap and see where the rotor is pointing-should be aprox 11 oclock. Best is to remove the dist and see if the slot is paralell with the block.

that is how i checked the timing. sorry, i should have been more descriptive. i set the engine to TDC according to the mark in the sprocket and the 0 deg mark on the tranny. i then removed the distributor and checked the slots in the oil pump gear. they are parallel with the block/head, which is where it's supposed to be (and the rotor was pointing to #1). i also adjusted the distributor at like 5 different angles and tried to start the car. no love.

If thats ok, I would just use the coil wire and check for spark, if no spark, then check the coil wire. If ok, then I would assume its a bad coil or LM/PM as you said they are Napa stuff and alot of reman stuff isn't the greatest quality, ask me how i know,

i will check the coil wire and coil tonight. as for the LM/PM, i am going to swap out the LM for a known good one. the PM is brand new, i got it from napa last weekend. i actually returned my other "new" PM for this current one - it was still under warranty. it's possible the relays are shot in it (as you say, it's a reman). if absolutely nothing else works, i'll have to see about exchanging this one. again.

thanks for the help, simon!

[mcglsr2]

problem solved. i got to "sawp the coil" on my list of things to do and booyah, the car started up. i guess the new coil went bad on the trip home or something. oh well, i'm going to get a new coil, probably an MSD blaster 2.

the car still smells like it's burning something, oil most likely. there's a little white/blue-ish smoke coming out the tail pipe. i'm not sure where it's coming from yet, so that's the next step to figure out. at least progress is being made...

[turbovanman²]

Good to hear,

Coils are weird, they can either get weak over time or just simply fail.

[mcglsr2]

lol, my coil....EPIC FAIL!