Is this a high volume oil pump?

[blk86trbo]

Years ago I bought a pump for an 85 GLHT but never ended up using it. When the part number on the box (P4286741) is googled, a listing says that it's heavy duty and high volume for 2.2L, "Except 1987 and Newer Turbo".

Don't all the 2.2/2.5 engines use the same pump?

Can I use this pump in a common block 2.5 TI?

[turbovanman²]

Its for 86 and earlier engines and yes, its high volume. I would assume you can't use it on newer engines due to the oil pickup height as all oil pumps are the same, stock anyway.

[4 l-bodies]

Looks like a re-badged Melling to me. Right down to the 118 Part #. The so called Mopar high volume pumps were 5 bolt and were all cast iron while the std. Mopar were 4 bolt with an aluminum body and cast cover. The 5 bolt had a bit taller gears. They were primarily used on 2.5's. Your pump will work perfect in a 2.5. The 2.2's and 2.5 don't need a high volume or high pressure pump. It will just cost you HP. Just make sure you use the correct pickup to match your pan. I always check clearance between pickup and bottom of pan. I've always heard 5/8" clearance. Ed Peters claims the same. Some factory ones I have checked have zero clearance and some actually won't even let the pan sit flat on the block!
Todd

[turbovanman²]

Looks like a re-badged Melling to me. Right down to the 118 Part #. The so called Mopar high volume pumps were 5 bolt and were all cast iron while the std. Mopar were 4 bolt with an aluminum body and cast cover. The 5 bolt had a bit taller gears. They were primarily used on 2.5's. Your pump will work perfect in a 2.5. The 2.2's and 2.5 don't need a high volume or high pressure pump. It will just cost you HP. Just make sure you use the correct pickup to match your pan. I always check clearance between pickup and bottom of pan. I've always heard 5/8" clearance. Ed Peters claims the same. Some factory ones I have checked have zero clearance and some actually won't even let the pan sit flat on the block!
Todd

According to the picture in my MP book, it uses its own unique oil pump pickup, its like an SBC, so it goes in the side, not on top, so thats why I think its only good for earlier engines, oil pan height.

[blk86trbo]

Looks like a re-badged Melling to me. Right down to the 118 Part #. The so called Mopar high volume pumps were 5 bolt and were all cast iron while the std. Mopar were 4 bolt with an aluminum body and cast cover. The 5 bolt had a bit taller gears. They were primarily used on 2.5's. Your pump will work perfect in a 2.5. The 2.2's and 2.5 don't need a high volume or high pressure pump. It will just cost you HP. Just make sure you use the correct pickup to match your pan. I always check clearance between pickup and bottom of pan. I've always heard 5/8" clearance. Ed Peters claims the same. Some factory ones I have checked have zero clearance and some actually won't even let the pan sit flat on the block!
Todd

Hi Todd, I think you are right. My belief is that it's a Melling also, only because Autozone listed a Melling with part # M-118, and as you saw in this photo, the pump has the # 118 cast in it.

According to the picture in my MP book, it uses its own unique oil pump pickup, its like an SBC, so it goes in the side, not on top, so thats why I think its only good for earlier engines, oil pan height.

Simon, if you are talking about the picture that comes up when you google the part number on the box (P4286741), that pump does appear to be different. It had me confused, and I posted the question to the list because I don't remember getting the pickup tube that appears to come with the pump in that ad.

Also, this pump has a pickup that attaches to the bottom...





This whole saga has started because of a TI 2.5 commonblock that has low oil pressure once warm. Here's that thread:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...103#post414103

Last week I changed rod bearings and installed a common block 2.2 pan and pickup, because someone removed the balance shafts and left the large oil pan on it. I've got a feeling this is why my rod bearings looked like this (and this is the best one, a few others came apart in pieces, although thankfully none of them spun).



After the rod bearing swap and switching from 10W30 to 10W40, it didn't make too much of a difference, other than being alot quieter at startup. Next on the list is to try installing a new pump and main bearings.

[turbovanman²]

Ok, yeah, then you should be fine, it looks like a regular oil pump.

Did you plastiguage the bearings? I would take your old oil pump apart, if the gears and housing aren't scored, then there is nothing wrong with it. Maybe take out the oil relief valve and make sure its free. Get the MP oil spring kit so you have a new cap and cotter pin. I prefer the stockers, thats all I reuse if in good shape, I get better oil pressure with them than aftermarket.

Definately check the mains, they are probably bad too. You won't be able to do #5 but in all the bad motors I've checked, that one is usually the best and barely damaged.

Do me a favour, measure the gear section part on the gear side, you can see gear housing imprint so to speak in this pic-

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...trbo/016-1.jpg

[4 l-bodies]

Paul,
+1 on plastigaging the bearings. I've seen people put std. bearings in a cut crank before. And it didn't immediately spin a bearing! Was your old oil pump sealed with anaerobic sealant to the block? O-ring in the pump or on the end of the pickup? Pickup filled with mounds of RTV? Is the BS oil feed covered? Maybe oil feed restrictor left out of top of block?
Sorry for being Mr. obvious. Just trying to help.
Todd

Oh, Paul while you have the pan off, check the side play on the rods. If excessive, that will bleed off alot of oil pressure. Should be .005-.012 using feeler gauge.

[turbovanman²]

Paul,
+1 on plastigaging the bearings. I've seen people put std. bearings in a cut crank before. And it didn't immediately spin a bearing! Was your old oil pump sealed with anaerobic sealant to the block? O-ring in the pump or on the end of the pickup? Pickup filled with mounds of RTV? Is the BS oil feed covered? Maybe oil feed restrictor left out of top of block?
Sorry for being Mr. obvious. Just trying to help.
Todd

Better we do this then to have him have oil pressure issues still,

[135sohc]

I'm pulling this thread back up to share some recent findings.


I just purchased a mopar oil pump from one of our vendors. It doesnt look anything like the oil pump I removed from a 94 tbi engine as its entirely cast iron construction (and weighs a ton). The box said "made in mexico" along with the date of 02/22/99 and the updated part number 4397746AB

the pump is a 4 bolt design holding the two halves together, says "USA" cast into the top 1/2 (thought it was made in mexico?) and has the exact same "118" numbering cast into the bottom.

Let this serve as a warning to not bother buying a "mopar" oil pump as its just a reboxed melling unit. I'll now be reconditioning the original lightweight aluminum pump and throwing this boat anchor out in the shed.

[turbovanman²]

All aftermarket pumps are 100% cast iron, only the OE pumps are part aluminium and cast.

If reusing the stocker, check the gear teeth for wear, if wear, throw it away.

[135sohc]

this pump came in a sealed box from mopar.

[turbovanman²]

this pump came in a sealed box from mopar.

And Mopar replacement pumps, lol.

[135sohc]

I did send a message to Chris. Honestly if mopars just gonna pull a fast one and rebox a melling. Why bother selling them ? The same pump can be had from AZ or advance for less than $50...

[4 l-bodies]

That's pretty strange. I've bought several NOS pumps (not from Mopar but in Mopar sealed boxes) and they were aluminum bodied pumps like the original. BTW I've had no issues using the Melling pump, nothing wrong with it, but you you said, why would anyone pay a premium price for a relabeled Melling pump?
Todd

[iTurbo]

I did send a message to Chris. Honestly if mopars just gonna pull a fast one and rebox a melling. Why bother selling them ? The same pump can be had from AZ or advance for less than $50...

I went through that whole deal trying to get a real Mopar oil pump from TU as well. I agree, why bother selling them.

A few years ago I bought my first Mopar oil pump from TU and it was the alum/cast unit with the pentastar logo cast right on it. Apparently all there is left is reboxed Melling M118 pumps.

[BadAssPerformance]

I thought Melling made the pumps for Mopar anyways? and by 1999, the Germans has all the 2.2L/2.5L stuff consolidated...

[iTurbo]

Was your old oil pump sealed with anaerobic sealant to the block?

Is it bad to use anaerobic (Mopar Gasketmaker) here?

[4 l-bodies]

Is it bad to use anaerobic (Mopar Gasketmaker) here?

No not at all! It is a common mistake that people make is to not seal the pump to the block. It can cause pump to suck small amounts of air along with the oil. Not ideal when it's tying to feed the main bearings and the rest of the motor.
Todd

[turbovanman²]

Is it bad to use anaerobic (Mopar Gasketmaker) here?

Definately use it and remember to put sealer on one bolt, it sticks out the block,

[iTurbo]

OK, I've always used it in the past there, just wanted to make sure. Thanks!