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Thread: No power to coil

  1. #1
    Garrett booster
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    No power to coil

    alright i can not get my car to start. There is fuel but no spark. I tested for power at the coil while cranking and get nothing. I have replaced the distributor and still will not start. What are some other test i can do to figure out where the problem is. Thanks

  2. #2
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: No power to coil

    If your getting power to the pump, then the ASD relay is ok. I would disconnect the coil + and recheck it for 12 volts, remember, you only get it when you crank and its on for aprox 5 secs when you turn the key on. When it starts, you get + voltage.

    Do you have any codes?
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  3. #3
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    Re: No power to coil

    Could be a couple of things. Check your ASD relay, check your pick up sensor also. Any codes?
    Last edited by gvare001; 12-20-2008 at 04:37 PM.

  4. #4
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    Re: No power to coil

    I disconnected the + lead to the coil and rechecked all i got was .019 and that # jumped from 0 to .019. The pickup is new. What do i try next?

  5. #5
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    Re: No power to coil

    You sure you hear the pump prime when you turn your ignition to on?

  6. #6
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    Re: No power to coil

    It must be a good pump because i never hear it but I pulled the plugs and they all had fuel on them. Plus i pulled the fuel line and got hosed with fuel. It is a new engine, fuel pump , fuel lines, fuel rail, so the pump has to be working to have primed the line.

  7. #7
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    Re: No power to coil

    Quote Originally Posted by daytona90 View Post
    I disconnected the + lead to the coil and rechecked all i got was .019 and that # jumped from 0 to .019. The pickup is new. What do i try next?
    What is .019???????????

    Any codes?

    You say new engine, are you sure its timed correctly?
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  8. #8
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    Re: No power to coil

    i have the same problem. no voltage to coil. new distributor, and pickup. fuel pump primes. was intermittent on starting, I would even hold it at 2 grand and it would just flat out die. now it won't start at all. I'm pretty puzzled myself.

    I'm sure its not ASD relay because that would cut power to the fuel pump too right? what else controls ignition?

  9. #9
    Garrett booster
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    Re: No power to coil

    .019 is what i get when i first turn the key on and when i start to crank the # jumps around between 0 and .019. I noticed that the wires are spliced the grn/red is + and the blk/gry is - Is there a way to test the wires and make sure there going to the correct terminal.

  10. #10
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    Re: No power to coil

    Is your daytona a VNT?

  11. #11
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    Re: No power to coil

    its a 90 tbi converted to turbo. 91 shelby wire harness, sbec is from a 91 sundance i think.

  12. #12
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: No power to coil

    Does anything else not work in the car when it is doing this? I chased a problem in my shadow for about 6mo this year and it ended up being the ignition switch itself. The switch wouldn't allow power to an entire bus in the fuse block and also wouldn't give me any spark. I would have to look at my FSMs again to see what goes where, but I finally figured it out by tracking the non working feed line to the fuse block back to the switch.

  13. #13
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    Re: No power to coil

    So you have the harness with the fuse block? Do you have any spare ECU's?

  14. #14
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    Re: No power to coil

    according to allpar a bad halleffect pickup will make it so there is no voltage to the coil. the new halleffect will be in tomorrow, so hopefully it works. it might be worth checking yours out too, that is if your new distributor didn't come with one
    Last edited by LynX853; 12-20-2008 at 06:07 PM. Reason: adding in info

  15. #15
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    Re: No power to coil

    Quote Originally Posted by daytona90 View Post
    .019 is what i get when i first turn the key on and when i start to crank the # jumps around between 0 and .019. I noticed that the wires are spliced the grn/red is + and the blk/gry is - Is there a way to test the wires and make sure there going to the correct terminal.
    I honestly don't have a clue what your talking about, what the hell is .019?

    You should be seeing battery voltage at that wire, 12 volts at least if the battery is charged.

    Quote Originally Posted by daytona90 View Post
    its a 90 tbi converted to turbo. 91 shelby wire harness, sbec is from a 91 sundance i think.
    I would say if your NOT getting 12 volts, then you need to start tracing and pinning out your wiring as you could have a wiring problem.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  16. #16
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    Re: No power to coil

    the only other sbec is the stock tbi one and a smec don't think that will help me any. The lights, blower, fan, all work the fan comes on while cranking not sure that it should and it is a fuse box harness

  17. #17
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    Re: No power to coil

    .019 volts is what i get with my voltmeter connected to the + coil and grounded with the key on.

  18. #18
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    Re: No power to coil

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    I honestly don't have a clue what your talking about, what the hell is .019?

    You should be seeing battery voltage at that wire, 12 volts at least if the battery is charged.



    I would say if your NOT getting 12 volts, then you need to start tracing and pinning out your wiring as you could have a wiring problem.
    How do you do this by following the wire and checking for power as you go?

  19. #19
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    Re: No power to coil

    Quote Originally Posted by daytona90 View Post
    .019 volts is what i get with my voltmeter connected to the + coil and grounded with the key on.
    Ok, that makes sense, volts,

    Quote Originally Posted by daytona90 View Post
    How do you do this by following the wire and checking for power as you go?
    You need to look up the what pin is what at the SBEC connector and then use an ohm meter to test the wiring and make sure the wiring is in the right spot.

    You still haven't told me if you have any codes?
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  20. #20
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: No power to coil

    Set your multimeter to check for continuity and put one lead where the power comes out, and the other end at the connector for the coil. If it doesn't beep at you, there is a short or break in the wire somewhere. Move back from the coil to the power source until you find the problem.

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