Race A-413 Buildup instructions?

[ShelGame]

Is there a good how-to somwhere showing how to assemble an A413 for race duty?

I've decided I want to build up my spare A413 with the 3.73 gears so I can run 24x14" slicks. I have a complete, dis-assembled A413. But the problem is, I didn't dis-assemble it! This will be my first trans build, so I am looking for some pointers on how to put it back together. I have the ASTG manual - is that enough though? What about the clutches, gaps, etc.? I know there are a couple of websites with some info, but is there a good single location for an assembly reference?

Seems like a good idea for a KC article ...

[BadAssPerformance]

+1, would make an excellent KC article!

...for those that dont like to row

[2.216VTurbo]

Everything I know about rebuilding 413's (not much) I learned from watching Pachner rebuild one in the parking lot at SDAC

[mcsvt]

Yeah I saw Stephane rebuild one between rounds a couple years ago. Looked "simple"

Steps would be great for the KC

[looneytuner]

I saved everything from Omniturbo.com. The site is dead last date was 6/8/2003.
Another site still up is http://www.turbovan.net/Trans.html

Does anyone know who Omniturbo is/was? He mentions Cliff and Joe Dzwill for credit. Maybe they know who he is and will give permission for posting with credits? Omniturbo is more detailed. first name is Carl. He used to run at Cecil and Englishtown. he knew Frank Radowski, Phil in North Jersey (almost NY), Danny's new shop. It's the first gas station on Englistown Road South if you're coming from RT18. (732) 251-1770 if you need work on your Trubo Dodge. Evan Nappe



I found it!!!!!

http://web.archive.org/web/20040610153132/www.omniturbo.com/Turbo+Mopars+Home.htm


Fifth? update!!!!! He is DblTrbl on TD.com. His site is now at................................................ ...............................................
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http://www.turbodiy.com/Mopar%20Page...s%20detail.htm

[turbovanman²]

Just follow what they did, and for the front clutch, use A404 steels then you can run more clutch's. I set the clearances at .040 and no issues.

If you do Chad's line pressure trick, DO NOT turn up the line pressure, only do that to alter your shift points.

Grind the case at the rear of the trans so the band will slide in, find Dave's recent carnage thread for pics.

I also use Anerobic sealer when putting the pump together, had one leak on me when air checking.

Shim up the front band apply, I'll find the specs on the washers, got that from the Superior shift kit.

Use the Sonnax rear band strut and governor kit and you should be all set.

Set the front band as follows-tighten hand tight then back off 1.5 turns, lo/reverse, I just do to spec.

[ShelGame]

I have a TA Cheetah RMVB already, so no need for the line pressure mod or governor mod. I have a Sonnaz strut and the Alto rear clutches. I was wondering what to do with the fronts. And what to set the clutch pack CL to. But, what about the basics? Where does part X go kind of stuff. Since I didn't take this one apart, and I've never taken one apart, I odn't know what is what or where it goes. Does the ASTG manaul cover that well enough?

Simon - why grind the case for the band? Just to make assembly easier? I don't undersand...

I was going to grind the case for the 1.22 xfer gears (so no shims are needed like my current trans) and for the line pressure adjustment. Any other case mods to do before I start putting stuff back in there?

[turbovanman²]

I have a TA Cheetah RMVB already, so no need for the line pressure mod or governor mod. I have a Sonnaz strut and the Alto rear clutches. I was wondering what to do with the fronts. And what to set the clutch pack CL to. But, what about the basics? Where does part X go kind of stuff. Since I didn't take this one apart, and I've never taken one apart, I odn't know what is what or where it goes. Does the ASTG manaul cover that well enough?

Simon - why grind the case for the band? Just to make assembly easier? I don't undersand...

I was going to grind the case for the 1.22 xfer gears (so no shims are needed like my current trans) and for the line pressure adjustment. Any other case mods to do before I start putting stuff back in there?

Those links are pretty good, and YOU need the ATSG book, that covers it all. With those 2, you are set.

I and the sites list the specs and how to set the clutch pack clearances.

Grinding the case at the bottom, so to speak, allows you to install the sprag so much more easier than putting the band in first, which you have to do without grinding, then install the sprag,

I would still block the accumulator holes, tap for the line pressure adjustment as you'll need it with the RMVB.

[ShelGame]

Those links are pretty good, and YOU need the ATSG book, that covers it all. With those 2, you are set.

I and the sites list the specs and how to set the clutch pack clearances.

Grinding the case at the bottom, so to speak, allows you to install the sprag so much more easier than putting the band in first, which you have to do without grinding, then install the sprag,

I would still block the accumulator holes, tap for the line pressure adjustment as you'll need it with the RMVB.

I understand about the band. Thanks for the advice.

Why block the accumulator holes? What does that do?

Peronally, I don't need a trans that will hold up to 500hp. I'm only putting out 250, tops. But, I need fast shifts, reliability, and consistency.

[ShelGame]

Oh yeah I forgot - there is one part I'm missing - the reverse piston I cannibalized 2 seasons ago when mine broke. You still have a spare billet one Simon?

[TurboJerry]

I'd delete reverse boost, so that reverse won't break bands or pistons again... Or in my case the case broke. Unless you plan on backing up *very* steep hills. (it will slip then) I actually go 1 turn on the front band, and 2 on the rear. The servo goes way far in reverse with the stock # of turns, but with a reverse pattern vb it's along for the ride in forward gears unless you mod it to have low band apply. BTW in reverse expect to see 350-400 psi, which is why I get rid of rev. boost. Leave one accumulator port open so you can get pressure readings.

[turbovanman²]

Oh yeah I forgot - there is one part I'm missing - the reverse piston I cannibalized 2 seasons ago when mine broke. You still have a spare billet one Simon?

Yes, still have a spare one, so far, so good.

I think the RMVB uses the accumlator which you don't need if you want fast, hard shifts.

I'd delete reverse boost, so that reverse won't break bands or pistons again... Or in my case the case broke. Unless you plan on backing up *very* steep hills. (it will slip then) I actually go 1 turn on the front band, and 2 on the rear. The servo goes way far in reverse with the stock # of turns, but with a reverse pattern vb it's along for the ride in forward gears unless you mod it to have low band apply. BTW in reverse expect to see 350-400 psi, which is why I get rid of rev. boost. Leave one accumulator port open so you can get pressure readings.

Good to know but if you block off the accumalor holes, you can take pressure readings off another port, I have it marked in my ATSG book.

[ohiorob]

Rob I would suggest getting a core tranny from a junkyard, about $25 and take that apart first that way you got a better understanding of what goes where. Better then a book can show you plus the extra parts will come in handy someday.

the accumalator is not used with the rmvb.

good luck and Merry Christmas.

[ShelGame]

I just happen to have a junkyard tranny, too. That's not a bad idea either, since this trans has the FD I want (I have another set already dis-assembled, though).

[R/T]

When Nathan ( TurboShadow on here ) I & did his 413 we used a FSM, it has easy to read exploded views of everything.

Rob P assembled the clutch pack at SDAC 17, with the thinner steels and an extra fiber.

If you ever did a motorcycle clutch you can do a 413, this was our first rebuild and it's still great almost 2 years later, driven daily + drag passes.

He also has the Cheetah RMVB.

[ShelGame]

I've done a ton of M/C clutches...

[turbovanman²]

When Nathan ( TurboShadow on here ) I & did his 413 we used a FSM, it has easy to read exploded views of everything.

Rob P assembled the clutch pack at SDAC 17, with the thinner steels and an extra fiber.

If you ever did a motorcycle clutch you can do a 413, this was our first rebuild and it's still great almost 2 years later, driven daily + drag passes.

He also has the Cheetah RMVB.

I would sort of agree but putting the clutch seals in can be a PITA and if you nick one or fold it over, your pulling the trans again.

[ohiorob]

I would sort of agree but putting the clutch seals in can be a PITA and if you nick one or fold it over, your pulling the trans again.

aint that the truth. some times I just got to walk away and try later

[ShelGame]

I would sort of agree but putting the clutch seals in can be a PITA and if you nick one or fold it over, your pulling the trans again.

These are the kind of tips I was looking for. That's stuff you won't find in the FSM or ASTG manuals. They'll just say - 'Install seal' or such...

[black86glhs]

I have always smeared vasoline(or transgel if I have some) on the seals. Others just use trans fluid. I find the vasoline helps the seals slide in better without tearing or folding over. This has been on GM seals, but it works the same on all of them.