Undercoating, bedliner, or ???

[Anonymous_User]

Just finished up welding in the floorboard on the Daytona. Now I want to coat it with something that is durable, protective, and inexpensive. Running to Walmart soon. Thinking aerosol cans of rubberized undercoating or some type of roll on bedliner stuff.

Comments?

[contraption22]

Is this for the inside or outside?

Either way, you want to probably use some good rust encapsulator. Either POR15 or Eastwood. Then primer it. Then paint it. Then cover it with undercoating or bedliner.

Remember, underocating is pourous. So while it does protect against stone chips and stuff, it does retain some moisture, so it is not good for protecting bare metal.

[Anonymous_User]

Is this for the inside or outside?

Either way, you want to probably use some good rust encapsulator. Either POR15 or Eastwood. Then primer it. Then paint it. Then cover it with undercoating or bedliner.

Remember, underocating is pourous. So while it does protect against stone chips and stuff, it does retain some moisture, so it is not good for protecting bare metal.

Sounds expensive. I have a LOT of rust converter. Gonna use that first since this welding job has taken some time and some surface rust has begun on the new metal. Then a coat of rustoleum. Then coat with undercoating/bedliner or somthing. This if for the bottom of the car, outside.

[ShadowFromHell]

I would use a metal etching primer (it can be had in rattle cans) on the bare metal. Then a few coats of good spray paint, not the cheap stuff. You could then topcoat it with some cheap undercoating if you wanted.

Dustin

[black86glhs]

If I get a warm day, i'm looking at the same thing. I'm gonna use the etching primer, oil based rustoleum, and herculiner bedliner on my GLHS.

[Anonymous_User]

Well I didn't get my arse off the couch to go pick up materials yesterday, what with the Ultimate Fighter marathon on and all.

Good, though, 'cause I'll just go on Monday to the auto body supply place and get some etching primer and some Herculiner.

[contraption22]

Sounds expensive.

I guess compared to a $2.99 can of undercoating, yeah a little bit more money, but cost-cutting in manufacturing is the main reason you had to do rust repair in the first place. Chrysler didn't need these cars to last this long.

Look at the process in building almost any new car today and you will see a greater efford towards corrosion prevention. People are hanging on to their cars longer.

[1966 dart wagon]

since you mentioned you welded in a floor pan, make sure there are no pinholes in your welds, they must be solid, moisture will get into those and rust it out faster then the factory stuff, so once the pinholes are gone, epoxy, or etch it, i prefer epoxy, just use a can or something, then undercoat it.

[Aries_Turbo]

rust bullet on the bare metal, then prime and coat.

brian

[Tony Hanna]

I took a cheaper approach when I did the floor repair on the Sundance. Cold galvanizing paint followed by fibrous roof cement top and bottom. I figure if the roof cement will keep a metal roof from rusting for years in constant exposure to the elements, then it should do fine on a floor. So far it's working great.

[devlish]

silicone up the seams from the inside and outside. let dry a few days... then SPRAY ON TRUCK BEDLINER both the inside and outside. make sure to rough up the area VERY good before the bedliner. 40grit sand paper, or the roughest wire wheel you can find should do the trick... coat twice+

[135sohc]

Liquid nails works better for seam sealer.