Over heating issue. HELP!!!!

[shelbyplaya]

OOOOK. SO, I've got a 100% stock 90 Daytona Shelby VNT whitch tends to get real hot (3/4) at idle and going up hills. Going down hill it cools down and on a long flat section it cools down after a short wile.

The car has got a new HG and the head was re-surfaced at the same time.
I've ran Both 180 (with 1/16 hole) and 195 t-stats. I'm currently running NO t-stat and none of whitch have any real signifagent differince.

The rad on the out side looks great and I cant feel any cool spots. The fan works fine and it turns on till the cars cool again.


Thanks in advnace.

[TopDollar69]

Sounds like you might be having issues moving coolant through the engine. I would try installing a new water pump.

[SoCalCSX]

I had this same problem with my Shelby Charger. Turned out the radiator was all gummed up inside.

[2.216VTurbo]

Daytona's = low frontal area. They run hot. It's the price to be paid for that slippery bodywork and pointy nose

[shelbyplaya]

Daytona's = low frontal area. They run hot. It's the price to be paid for that slippery bodywork and pointy nose

They didnt act like this from the factory though
The water level is'nt getting any lower it's still pretty full. I think I'll put in a new water pump and rad.

[black86glhs]

A new radiator will take care of it. Since water pumps are cheap and easy to do, cheap insurance.

[JDAWG]

gl finding a new rad

[chilort]

1) Must have a t-stat of any kind. Put one of them back in.
2) Finding a rad may be tough. You can have them recored, but that isn't cheap these days at all. If it has plastic tanks then you're boned. I had to have a rad recored in my '68 Dodge Sweptline pickup and it cost around $300.
3) Daytona bodywork post the Gen 1 cars are terrible for airflow and some did get pretty warm right from the factory (I had Gen 2 and a friend has had his '92 since '95).
4) Rads can be cleaned but you must take it to a reputable shop. Some rinse them out, repaint them, and call them good .... it isn't.